Mike kZ

I hope the numbers he gave you are not the core size, but over all size. If it's the core size, 23.25 X 17.25 is too big. You need the 20.75 X 17.25 core dimension.With the tanks on either side it comes out to just under 24" wide total

Cool list! I wouldn't have guessed that the 426 Hemi weighs less than the early Hemis. It looks so much bigger.

Also the primer you should use in Etching Primer

David, My cam is a regular hyd. It was bought about 2 years ago, so your cam should be fine.

Well damn! My engine is coming out. Once I got my exhaust system on, I notice a strange ticking noise coming from the engine. That is why I drove my car to my engine builder, but (from and earlier post) my fuel pump died and I didn't make it. I towed the car home, replaced the pump, started the car and let it idle to warm up. Just as I got out of the car I hear a thump.....thump,thump......thump. , so I rush to turn it off. Towed it back to my engine builder because he wanted to hear it. Long story short, the #8 intake and exhaust lobes were no more , also #4 intake, and #3 exhaust!! Turns out Comp Cams had a problem with about 100 cams being to soft around the time my engine was built! Well you guessed it, I have one! So now my car is back home and I'm taking the engine out so my builder can totally clean and check it.Comp Cams is suppling everything and then some! My builder is keeping the extra stuff to pay for the laber. What a total drag!!!

Here are those pics I promised

it's jet hot coated and looks very good, it's also holding up so far. I'll try to get some pics of the steering ( u joint) this weekend. Nullbound, where in Atlanta do you live? I'm in Gwinnett county

I have the Trick Flow 23 degree heads with angle plugs and used these headers from Zig's Street Rods. http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/ Go to headers. I used the RW37 headers. If you notice the outer tubes come down differently then the regular ones above it. There prices have gone up since I bought mine, but they are well made headers. One thing though I had to add a U joint in the steering shaft to clear because these headers stick out more than regular ones.

The T5 slave has the bleeder screw in it. What I did was use a pressure bleeder and filled the entire clutch system from the bottom up. No air bubbles! If you don't have a pressure bleeder you could try an oiling can, buy a new one, fill it with brake fluid, and try filling from the bottom up.

Have custom axles made, they are stronger, and thicker. If you have stock axles cut and resplinded, they're not as strong because they weren't heat treated after the cut, and I'm not sure you can heat treat after without the axle becoming brittle.

Ya I did mention this awhile back, can't remember when, but the gauges are still holding good! They are easy to read, and the green light at night almost matches my stripes!

Pics look great, it's coming along! Did you try and put spark plugs in yet to see if they clear the headers?

That foam tape is what I used! It works great. It's a tight fit to get the gauge back in the hole but once you get it pushed in it's solid!

Cameraobsess: I think stripes look great on a Z, Check my sites below!

Wow!! That's too cool, I'd love to put one of those on my car. With Launch control, and Speed shift option! Only problem is, it's a bit too pricy for me right now

There is another new guy on the site that has a 300ZX V8, maybe you guys can get together and talk. shane vincent Junior Member Member # 1507 posted December 02, 2001 02:44 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hI GUYS just put a 400hp 350 in my 300zx and i need to know how to hook up the tac and temp generally im wondering anbout the wire colors in the dash. My gages are digital and i want to have the tac working weither it be acurate or not. just for looks you guys know how it is.i have figured out the speedo considering that i have the eletric drive 700r4 i had a 280zx with along gages and i hooked then into the instrument cluster from the sensor but the 300zx is new to me and i havent had a chance to run the wire colors down right just yet all help will be appreciated thanx. He posted this under "Trouble shooting/General engine"

Sorry, I see Bronze and lime green also

Stony, I would measure, or mock up something under your car to see what size tire/wheel combo would fit with a 39" drum to drum diff. My diff came out to around 45" and my tire print is around 15" wide. So with a 6" narrower diff you could put prostreet tires under there, but they don't make those in radials.

Unless someone here has first hand knowledge about this you may be on your own on this. Not to many here have done the 300ZX V8 swap. Do you have a repair manual for the 300ZX? If not you should get one and trace the wireing diagram. Good luck!

Kris, What are you going to do with the 392? I'm planing to build a '33 Willys and would love one of those!

Terry what are those headlights from? They look awsome! .Of course so does the rest of the car!

I went with a 130/250# progressive springs out back, they say "that the lower spring rate helps allow the suspension to get weight transfer for a good launch off the line" $53.99 ea from Jeg's

Stony, here are the part#s 550-41003 - S/S front mount brackets (for vehicles with ground clearance limitations) 550-41004 - S/S track rod w/polyurethane bushings. (I modified this to be a panhard bar, better for the street). Both of these were $69.99. For the coil overs I used the Pro/Series 2000 coil-over mount &shock kit from S&W Racecars 1-800-523-3353. I bought the deluxe 3 position 5" mounts with 12" 130# springs, part#40-223C-130 (these springs are for drag racing, but are too soft for the street. Since then I bought progressive 130/250# springs from Jeg's part# 122-12-130/250)or you can buy 200, or 250# springs from S&W Racecars. The price for the mount/shock kit is $259.95 . No I didn't have to cut behide the seats, in fact I left the stock cubby holes back there. My new frame partially goes through them. I'm running 295-50-15 tires on 15X10" rims. I hope this all helps you Stony. I do have pics but my scanner is down.

There was a pic on the web of a yellow 240Z with a 354 early hemi in it.

This isn't a 4 link. These are street/strip bars. "In street mode, the right bar functions as a torque arm, and the left bar is a suspension link. This allows both tires to stay on the ground during body lean while cornering, as well as prevents wheelhop and maintains traction under acceleration or uneven roads. In strip mode, both bars function as an easy to adjust ladder bar. The upper tube of a conventional ladder bar is not needed, thus providing maximum clearance. Jegsters S/S Rear Suspension Bars are universal in design and feature polyurethane bushings in the front mounting holes. Fully adjustable for wheelbase, pinion angle and preload on the rear, via a left/right hand treaded link. The left bar features an additional quick disconnect provision that changes the function from a ladder bar to a suspention link." All you have to do is install a large bolt in the left bar and they become ladder bars, it's pretty easy. The bars prevent the dif from rotating, along with the coil overs.