Thumper

The mr2 1st gen motor was a 4agze. It was only offered on the 88+ models. Made about 160 hp but easily can pushed up with just a pulley upgrade to 200+ They are fairly cheap and light. You can also put a rwd corolla tranny up to it. Many corolla owners have done this swap. Might be alittle bit too much hp though. Also can be expensive on the parts for it. But good engine and it revs very very fast. Heck even the n/a motor might be a good choice. 4age

I would recommend the FE3. Its a nice engine with good all around power and light. The KA is nice but slow to rev and a low rev limit. Although it does have good low end torque. The KA is also a fairly heavy engine. If I was going to choose any engine I would look into a sr20de. It can rev too 7500rpm plus make 140rwhp with just intake and exhaust. Put cams and ecu and it can put down 160rwhp. Plus its fairly light.

I was able to hook up the stock tach to the tach output on the msd 6al. So I didn't need an adapter.

Actually I haven't put the z's motor in since i've rebuilt it so I do not know. I was talking about my miata since I just did a 900 mile trip. But my miata is like 1 qt every 900 miles.

I have heard some solo II drivers run their oil about 1 qt low to get less resistance. My question is if the oil pressure is good even under extreme cornering is there any side effects to running the oil low. I am probably not going to do this. I was just wondering if there were any side effects since my car burns a alittle oil and does get low if I don't check it every 1000 miles or so. Thanks

I would first make sure all the sensors are in specs. Especially tps, coolant temp, and afm. If all checks ok then do a leak test on the injectors. Good luck

Nice find. I always loved the lines and handleing of the 2nd gen rx-7. I knew someone who put a 350 or 305 in his 2nd gen and it ran beautifully. Has only problem was traction. But one day i'll put a 302 in a 1st gen because of weight and the sleeper factor.

I don't know if you knew this but every engine burns oil. Even a properly broken in new engine will burn alittle bit of oil. The reason the oil dipstick doesn't move is because water molecules go into the oil and fill up the space the loss oil left. So alittle burning of oil is healthy for lubrication. A 1/4 bottle for 1000 miles on the sentra doesn't sound to too bad, not perfect but nothing to worry about. About the z I would track down the missing oil. My main concern would be the oil in the intake tract. Just make sure you know where it is coming from. Then make sure there are no engine leaks when it sits overnight. If those two are in good shape then you might consider hooking up the crankcase and valve cover. If you are talking about the crankcase pcv line and valve. I have heard of people with leaks when they are not running theres and when they hook it up the leak goes away. Don't forget at idle there is a vacuum in the intake manifold so it will suck the gases out of the crankcase. And the 800 stands for 800 milli liters. So about 4/5 of a liter. Good luck

Here are three links the helped me learn just about everything I wanted on how to tune su's. http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html http://www.zparts.com/zptech/articles/mal_land/ml_sucarb2/images4/SUcarb_111601d.htm http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82067&highlight=carb+tune

Looks very nice. Did you install the sunroof yourself or get it professionaly done. Also have you thought about getting a 3.36 or 3.545 rear end. You can keep the lsd and you should be able to pick up a couple of tenths in qt mile.

Kindof have to say he deserved something. I don't know if it should have so heinous as selling his lotus. Good find for the buyer. Wonder if he kept it or sold it.

That ugly thing in the z's rearview mirror. Edit: Nevermind he was talking about a 68' camaro and not a new one.

Ouch!!! My eyes!!! You should put a warning "Not for the faint of heart". He should have caught the bug while he was at it and made it into a convertible.

Hey mike I just finished porting my exhaust manifold. I did the flange on both sides but only half the flange only where exhaust flow would go from larger to smaller. And not where it would just go small, larger, small. Then on my runners i removed some like 1/12"-1/8" off of the number 1,2,5,6 runners where the bolts go. Then on the turbo matched the flange and opened the downpipe are up alittle and angled the wastegate wall so its alittle smoother. Your welcome to come by and look at what i've done.

I would stay with 10w-30 for your engine. Wouldn't go any lower like 5w-30 or 0w-30. I have always run mobil 1 in my engine's and either redline or royal purple in the tranny and diff. My friend has run both amsoil and mobil 1 and he doesn't have a preference betweeen the two. But I remember some magazine did a test and they like the amsoil first then mobil 1. But for the price and ease of getting (go to walmart 19.99 for a 4qts) you can't beat it. For the maximum effect I would switch out the tranny and diff fluids too. Your welcome to come and over and do it over my house.

Wow the tracks around my house don't even let a passenger in the car let alone a nitrous bottle holding passenger with a line duct taped to the hood. I don't think he got out of 1st or 2nd gear so his qt mile is probably bad. Maybe a nice 1/8 doubt it though. Crazy:confused2

Looking to get a performance alignment for my z and a regular alignment for my mom's maxima in the Houston, Texas area. Would like only first hand experience please. Thanks

150hp should be no problem. You should be able to get 160-170 rwhp. What head do you plan to run. And from what I've read you have to replace lash pads and rockers when you put a new cam in.

Do you have the gredy bov recirculated? Cause it kindof sounds like the problem I had. Under full boost the bov would hold. But when there was more boost b4 the throttle body then the intake manifold because of the tb then it would try to vent it. I didn't relize it intill my bov hose popped off one day. If not this then I would like at your afm. Check make sure the specs are with range. Good luck

Here's a website that has all the different rear-ends and transmission ratios. Plus a nice speed calculator with graphs. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html

Very addicting game. Only problem is you do not get the delay of the engine, transmission, and then the actual movement of the car. But still fun.

I would agree with you except for one part. I usually do not feel sorrow for what happens to people with long term drug use problems.

My friend reminded me of this one. "I'll believe ya when me **** turns purple and smells like rainbow sherbet." The captain said it.

"Say car Ram-Rod"

Me personally I would try to stay away from body work. As long as you are not in a hurry I would take the intercooler and sell it on ebay. That is if the intercooler is not a POS and if you trust the guy your are buying it from. (j/k stony:) ) That way you save yourself alot of time buy starting off with a better car. Only downside I see is doing an auto to manual swap. Its a good 2 day project. Thats my .02 cents.