SleeperZ

The data you are looking for can be calculated using the compressor maps and the intercooler maps. Without disclosing which turbo and which intercooler you are using it is impossible to say. The best way to get what you are looking for is to install thermocouples in your intake before and after the turbo, and after the intercooler, and make the measurements, as calculations will only go so far. In addition, the temperatures are really irrelevant by themselves, whether you detonate depends on how well you control your air/fuel ratio, and what octane fuel you are using. I recommend you read both these books on turbocharging - Hugh McInnnes "Turbochargers" and Corky Bell "Maximum Boost". They will give you the equations necessary to calculate anything you want.

I'm running 1 bar on stock injectors, but that's up here in the clouds, equivalent to 13psi at sea level. Stock motors can reliably take 20+ psi, as proven by Shane, shown above. Just get a good turbo and intercooler to keep intake temps at bay, and fuel it right.

My custom driveshaft cost $225, all new parts and replaceable u-joints.

Actually the 300ZX ECU, while delivering more power than the stock ECU with the same size injectors, is less flexible for tuning for larger injectors. I am currently knee-deep in modifications to allow the use of 370cc injectors. I have an adjustable FPR on the way (20psi to 80+), a new fuel rail and filter built, and currently being plumbed. I will soon be ordering new intake piping, and installing the Z31 MAF sensor inside it (I am taking a risk on it working at all, but it won't be the first time I've wasted $$ on my car). Then all the tuning will be done with the FPR as the MAF is not adjustable. The end result should be max duty cycle available on the 370cc injectors (modestly about 325rwhp) while retaining stock mileage and driveability. There may be some tricky ignition timing to deal with, but it should be a secondary issue.

That sounds strange. I just recently changed plugs on our '98 Legacy Outback, and it was a piece of cake. You have to remove the airflow meter on one side and the windshield washer on the other, but all in all a 30 minute job. I've heard the big block Cougars, late 60's, are a real PITA. That motor just barely fits between the fenders, and it has solid motor mounts as a result. No room to get to the plugs at all -- just pull the motor.

You may have problems with the new master cylinder. If they are not completely bled on the bench before install, you may not be able to get the air out of them. You can bleed it on the vehicle of course, but the master must be air-free before the wheels can be bled.

The 370cc SVO injectors are spec'd at 43psi, but at 36psi they still flow respectably. I tested flow patterns and quantity at 36psi, and get 350cc/minute out of them. "Headache" is right about running them at lower fuel pressure than stock - you would hit a point where the spray pattern would get bad, and also unless you ran some goofy setup with a rising rate FPR, you would never get the flow out of them with a stock FI system. And RRFPR is NOT the answer in this case, your fuel mixture would vary widely with rpm, and would be a PITA to tune to run well. Just MO, if someone has done it, chime in, but unless you had lots of patience and dyno time, I doubt you could get it to run acceptably.

There are two reasons why they only recommended 7 psi boost with the supercharger. 1. The system is designed to run on a stock Z motor, not originally designed for boosted operation. The stock compression ratio is higher, somewhere between 8.3:1 and 8.8:1. So you cannot run as much boost without detonation. 2. Superchargers are between 15% and 20% less thermally efficient than a turbo, so the resulting intake temperatures are higher. You have more chance of detonation with a hotter intake charge, so you cannot run as much boost.

Well, found the NHRA sport compact rulebook online today, and got some more answers. The reason the FPR should not be mounted on the firewall is it's right inline with a clutch explosion. The FPR and any other fuel system components need to be at least 6" forward of the clutch assembly. Also, they prefer steel-braided lines over just about anything, as supposedly they will survive a clutch explosion better than most anything, save shielded hard lines. The 12" rubber limit does not apply to braided steel fuel hose or individual injector connections, so this shall have to be my limit when connecting the stock hard lines to my fuel filter inlet and the FPR return.

From what I've heard, O-rings AND metal headgasket doesn't work. Either metal head gasket or O-rings with a factory gasket are both viable options. But if you will be going with a programmable EFI and can get it dyno tuned with safe fuel mixtures, you may not need to do either under 20psi. But I'd still tuck a 1mm metal gasket in there

Very nice.

Actually, I believe the peak power is 149hp and it is made at 5600 rpm -- the redline is 6400 rpm. The peak torque is 163 ft/lb at 4400 rpm.

I agree Clint, as a general rule the knock sensor and ECU need to stay with the factory engine to function properly. I've been unsuccessful so far getting the 280ZXT knock sensor to work with my Z31 ECCS and L28ET engine - I get an ECU error code for the sensor immediately. I suspect the L28ET, with solid pivots, is a bit noisier than the VG30ET motor. If I get my engine tuned properly with a wideband O2 sensor (plan on building my own DIY), I will reconnect the knock sensor and wire an attenuator in between the sensor and the ECU, and progressively and proportionally reduce the signal until I no longer get the error code. At this point, I may have a functional detonation sensing system...maybe.

pm sent

The Maxima diesel had an engine based on the L28. The LD28 crank has 83mm throw, 4mm bigger than standard L28 crank.

Here are my tentative plans at the moment. I just bought a big fuel filter with 3/8" NPT, and I'm planning on buying the Aeromotive regulator, again with 3/8" NPT fittings. I found some braided stainless line at Summit with a 3/8" ID, so I was going to run 3/8" ID line from my filter with 3/8" hose barbs and fuel injection clamps to 3/8" fittings on my fuel rail, and the same thing to my regulator. The regulator and the filter will both have short runs of 5/16" hose (regular rubber, short lengths) to the stock lines. I went with the 3/8" hose because I want to minimize the pressure drop to my regulator, and to increase volume in the rail. Which begs a question here - where can I mount the regulator? Why is the firewall not a good place? BTW - I've priced that AN fitting stuff, and I cannot foot $15 a fitting for -6 or -8 stuff; that is just WRONG! I've always had good luck with brass hose barbs, so I'd like to stay with it.

I just use synthetic oil, and idle down a bit when I've been running it hard. I've got the same oil cooled turbo from Turbonetics going on 5 years now.

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Scotty - I must have missed what did your engine in. What happened?

I appreciate the input G. Does anyone know how the NHRA regulations are interpreted, or to what extent they are enforced? I intend to be running 12s this upcoming spring, and I don't want to run a fuel system that will keep my car from running. Does anyone know whether steel-braided fuel line counts as rubber line? Twelve inches is not a lot of leeway given I have pump connections, a supply and return, AND injector hoses. I estimate the stock Z has over 4 feet of rubber hose in the fuel system!!!!! Please help.

The crank angle sensor is the most vital. The nice thing about the Z31 is it uses the same sensor that already resides in the 280ZXT distributor. I have no idea what the Z32 uses - you would be breaking new ground I believe. You would have to make a new fuel rail to accomodate the Z32 injectors, unless you could get some equivalent injectors to mount like an L28 (same flow, same impedance). I assume the Z32 has a single MAF, but if it has two, you may have a bit more plumbing to do. I don't know if the Z32 sensors will install in the L28, but the L28ET sensors are compatible with Z31 sensors. Lead on! Get us some answers

Not sure what I'm missing...what's so weird about a V8 300ZX?

Truthfully, ScottieMiZ is my hero too. Everything I do is low budget, because I have a low budget. I will be using junkyard injectors and kludging a Z31 MAF sensor into a bigger housing to compensate. With what I have, and the deals on used parts I got, I am seriously thinking 1/4 miles in the mid 12s this spring. I do have a nice boost controller (got a deal on a Greedy Profec B - $100), and it stays where it is set. When I was monkeying around with the POV, I found the spring from a 200SX turbo POV nested inside the 280ZXT POV very nicely, and popped off at 12-13 psi with full valve travel. That double spring can be easily shimmed to 15-16 psi.

I am plumbing a new fuel system in my engine compartment. I'm still using the stock lines from the tank. It seems the NHRA regulations on rubber fuel line is 12" total length in the entire fuel system is all you're allowed. That immediately seems to disqualify any fuel injected Z (unless OEM is allowed, which I assume is the case). But I'm putting in a new fuel rail and adjustable regulator. And I am also "cheap" - I wanted to run plain old fuel injection hose from the feed into the filter, across the engine to the rail, around the back of the engine to the regulator, and out of the regulator to the return line. Obviously this is not OEM, violates NHRA regulations, and may not be safe. Can I have some recommendations on plumbing this? Remember I'm cheap and AN fittings seem outrageously priced. I was planning to run 3/8" line through the filter and to the rail, and 3/8 to the regulator as well, all brass barbed hose fittings and 3/8 NPT pipe threads. Will I have to use AN stuff? Should I run aluminum hard line around the engine, and what fittings can be used with that? Does steel braided rubber line count as "rubber line"? I will obviously be drag racing this, and don't need any tech hassles... Also - firewall mounting of the regulator is not allowed as well? Where else would you mount the thing so you don't have to run miles of pipe/hose? What have you folks done?

I don't think too large of a line would affect anything at all. If you have no line restriction with a certain size, going bigger won't do any good, but it will have no effect on pressure. As far as turbo vs. V8, if you are fuel injected (read high fuel pressure), you get more flow through a smaller line than a V8 (carbureted) just because of a higher regulated fuel pressure. If your pump has the overhead, it can deliver whatever flow you need through the 5/16" lines, but if you want to run reasonable pump pressures (pressure at the pump outlet, not fuel rail & regulated pressure), a 3/8" should be enough for 400-450 hp.