SleeperZ

Bump! I'm curious to see brake ducting implementation too, if anyone has any pictures...

With those tires you will have plenty of traction. But I don't know if you will break anything. I never did, but I have a 280Z with the stronger stubs and an R200 (open). With a good clutch and drag radials I tore the crap out of a stock diff mount, but that's it. I witnessed Shane breaking an open R200 off the line, with a 400hp L28ET. He ran slicks and 280ZX CV shafts.

Stock turbo and fuel system can handle a boost increase to 250hp with an intercooler. If/when you want more, it's more practical to upgrade the fuel/fuel management first, then go for an upgraded turbo. And there are better turbo options, you are paying a lot for the name Apexi.

Doesn't seem like much rubber for an RB install. 225 width would fit the wheels and stick to the track better. I know, I know, I'm just saying -- I am a big fan of this project, I just like more function.

Very nice, very clean.

I like it, very stealthy, however that intercooler has heatsoak written on it.

I hope the OP keeps it updated. One shouldn't stay away because of a silly punctuation issue....

Yes, that's how I read it. I verified my TDC with a piston stop and degree wheel, then when I bolted up the damper, the 0 mark was lined up just like your picture.

Tough hit. I tend to agree with wickiewiked240z, the front is tweeked but finding another shell is challenging and costly to get to a good rust-free state. I bet it can be straightened.

@ablesnead -- I absolutely agree that vented rotors are very nice to have on a road course, and more pad area distributes the heat better. But in terms of single braking events or low speed/short duration like autocross and street driving, stock brakes can do the job as well as any of the "upgrades". And I wonder whether brake rotor cooling is impaired when such large rotors are fit so tightly inside the wheels. I use 15" wheels, and the Silvermine rear disks may fit some and not others - I question whether they would perform any better than the 280ZX solid rotor in a 15" wheel...

Did you see this one? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/105149-stage-1-camshaft-125-shipped/page__p__983685__hl__camshaft__fromsearch__1#entry983685

Fortunately we don't need ducting on the street. Vented rotors are very nice, and definitely help with keeping the brakes cool during extended sessions. For other uses like the street, strip or even autocross, there is not time to develop much heat, so heavier components and/or better pad materials are just about all that is required as upgrade.

Yes, you do have a heat issue, and it's good you are keeping your options open. But if your exhaust components themselves are overheating, a bit more air over them is probably not going to save them. I don't want to make any more assumptions than I already have, but it sounds like your EGT may be a bit too high.

I've got 280ZX calipers with R4 pads and turned down '84 Z31 rotors on the front, stock drums and OEM shoes still in the back, driving on Hankook Ventus R-S3 tires. Had a blast last year on the track (30 minute sessions) without any braking issues. I am not driving to the limit though, and my setup is very front biased. This summer I am going to install rear 280ZX discs with '86 Maxima calipers and R4 pads, as well as the 15/16 master and 280ZX proportioning valve to see if I can equalize things. Although I am happy with the brake upgrade options, I've run with faster people using well-maintained bone stock brakes. It is amazing what good fluid and pad/shoe materials can do on the track. I think there is more bling and less real performance with "upgrades". I don't mind admitting I really hate drum brakes though.

The fuseblock is connected to the battery through fusible links. Definitely get a better copy of the wiring diagram -- the factory service manual is pretty good.

How does the pump sound? If it continues to run as the pressure drops, maybe your fuel line is restricted, or your pressure regulator is failing. If the pump noise falls off as soon as you start supplying fuel, look into the pump or pump wiring as the issue.

Forged are needed for higher rpm.

@itzgoten -- I only posted my thoughts on the subject because you invited them. You are not being criticized, in fact I love your build, and I have followed it from the beginning as have most of us. Six_Shooter is right about exhaust coatings being more effective at keeping temperatures down, especially combined with the low pressure in the engine bay keeping the airflow up to carry the heat out. Bypassing the radiator will decrease your overall cooling.

I am currently putting together a rear disc conversion that species a later Maxima ('85-'87) rear caliper. Perhaps there are rotor dimension differences, or parking lever position differences. I'd get both sets and compare directly...

Cooling the radiator is the most efficient use of the air flow. Keep the radiator cooler and you keep the rest of the engine and bay cooler.

Wow, you did a lot of work in a short time, very ambitious. And a very nice car to start with. Have you got a picture or two yet of it sitting low with your new wheels? Did you sell the Panasports?

I don't think I am the only one confused by this. In general, if you restrict the air flow so it passes only through the radiator you get better cooling. If you leave areas open, air bypasses the radiator and reduces the cooling.

What a monster! To get a 2.2 second 0-60, what kind of 60' time do you get?

I've used Felpro on every L28 I've ever bolted a head to, and never had one fail.

It's the same radiator and fan I ran last June, a Champion aluminum unit for the 280Z and a pair of shrouded 11" fans from SummitRacing.com. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G4852/?rtype=1