510six

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=091L2Yas14Y&search=ferrari%20paris This is too cool.

LOL...thanks

http://nissandiesel.dyndns.org/index.php Interesting site on the LD28. http://www.dieselsmoke.com/info/propaneinjection.html On a N/A motor propane injection doesn`t look like it does much.

Nitrous will spool a turbo right NOW.I ran an over 200hp shot to the wheels on a turbo car with slicks for over 200 drag runs.With drag radials the nitrous hurt my 60` times as I overstepped the avalable traction.If you have the traction nitrous will do nothing but make a turbo car faster if it is setup correctly ..if not setup correctly a turbo car on N20 will ruin your day.

I am using the AEM EMS and the system requires a cam position sensor.A Ford VR sensor was placed in the rotor of a 81 turbo dist. and a small bolt is used as the "tooth" to read TDC #1. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=b32a.jpg&.src=ph

http://www.turbophile.com/technical/diy_catch_can.html This is a really good article on how to make an air/oil seperator. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=b8b6.jpg&.src=ph This is a pic of my air/oil seperator a Mazda diesel fuel filter is used as the catch can and a return line is run to the sump, it works great.

http://home.earthlink.net/~beanbooger/boost_engineering/ Was the source for the 36-1 wheel, very easy guy to work with.I Ebayed the 90 Ford TBird SC coilpack connector and mount for less than $40. The 36-1 wheel was mounted using four tapered 6mm allen machine screws with the wheel modified to almost press fit on the ATI dampner .It`s very important to get the -1 tooth in the correct position before any holes are drilled.The AEM EMS uses sequential injection up to 2000rpm so a cam position sensor is used for injector/spark timing.The cam position sensor is a modified 81 turbo dist. with a Ford VR sensor mounted inside an aluminum cap covers the works up. http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=b32a.jpg&.src=ph

I tried to fool the SDS into thinking the 2 bar MAP was maxed out and what I ended up with was a lean backfire on the dyno.I would dattalog with a wideband to figure out if your really going rich before you spray.I would be inclined to go with a true wet system in conjunction with the SDS rather than trying to make the system do something it`s not designed to do.Just my opinion,N20 going lean can really ruin your day.If a person wanted to run methanol as fuel for a wet system plus as a liquid/chemical intercooler and anti detonant you could kill two birds with one stone. With the SC61 the plan is to run 15psi with a small pulsed shot of Methanol and 20+ with more methanol and the icewater/air air IC on.The N20 will only be used to spool the turbo at the track with race gas in the tank.I want to make close to 300 or so rwh at 15psi and around 500rwh at 20+ psiwith a 75rwh shot to the wheels around 600rwh.So it should be somewhere around 600rwh.

Jeff,since we both have trannys that probaly won`t break.When are we going to the track this summer?

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=9223.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=2d03.jpg&.src=ph The 3 gallon fuel cell is my methanol tank, the blue tank is the liquid to air intercooler icewater exchange tank, the blue bottle..well that`s N20.The plumbing on the manifold may look like wet nitrous system plumbing, but the red foggers are for methanol injection the fuel for the N20 will be added at the fuel injectors.The methanol solenoid will be pulsed from 5-15 psi of boost via the AEM EMS.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=179c.jpg&.src=ph http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=63ef&.dnm=93f7.jpg&.src=ph Even though I am not running MS I still chose to use the 36-1 wheel and the EDIS coilpack for use with the AEM EMS.The Ford parts thanks to you MS people are common and work very well.

A person could run a single fogger nozzle with a 40HP shot or so just to spool up the turbo.A port nitrous system is more difficult to plumb and really is unnecessary for a small shot just to spool a turbo.Place the fogger nozzle at least a foot away from the TB so the N20/ fuel can atomise properly.I would just leave everthing connected on the motor that the shot is tuned for.There is more to it than just bolting a few things on the car and hitting a button...that would be a really good way to break a motor.PM me if you want a list of everything you really need to be safe.

A wet nitrous system is tuned using jets that are measured in thousanths , on a simple shot like your talking about a fuel system "T" would be used and a single fogger nozzel would provide the fuel and nitrous.This will spool the turbo INSTANTLY and the intercooling effects of the N20 will be felt as well.Anytime a lean condition on nitrous is experienced bad things will happen , running a wet system is the safe way to go esp. going into unknown territory. http://www.go-fast.org/z28/new_to_nitrous.html http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/Scripts/ As source for cheaper solenoids and kits than NOS,NX ect. This is a good writeup on how to installl a basic N20 system. The thing to remember about nitrous is that it`s basically compressed air in liquid form.If you are tunning nitrous I would strongly suggest using a wideband and to set fuel settings very rich then to back off the fuel rather than starting lean and using cyl head/piston aluminum as fuel.The cool thing about using a seperate map with a wet system and MS is that you can taylor your fuel and retard settings to compensate for the N20 jetting .Personally, once you start spraying I belive you will want the system on all the time through a 1/4 mile.It`s one of the few upgrades that I have done that literally shocked me at the dyno.Plus turbo`s and N20 go together better than peanut butter and jelly.

Several Union 76 stations in CA sell 100 octain unleaded.Or you could mix 4 gal of 91 with one gallon of tolulene and a quart of xylene (any paint store should have these items)put a couple of onces of ATF and a couple more onces of Mineral spirts for cleaning and lubrication purposes.

I would like to see the dattalog on that as I am going to be running methanol with a Precsion SC61 turbo.I just not as concerned about my tranny breaking . http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/sss510six/detail?.dir=15c7&.dnm=9698.jpg&.src=ph I have wondered about how hard it would be to put a TKO behind a T5 bellhousing.A friend who is running a 60-1 and SDS and currently has a T5 in His car is looking into this option.It`s kind pricy either way,but like I told Him "you have too much HP boo,hoo,it`s a problem many people wish they had." http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/G-Force-T5-Transmission-Package_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ107063QQitemZ4627322987QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW http://www.moderndriveline.com/Technical_Bits/tremec.htm#TKO_500 OR http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-94-NISSAN-300ZX-TRANSMISSION-TURBO-VG30DETT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6755QQitemZ4625234423QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I used the slave cyl from a 86 720 4x4 and the MSA SS line.It`s been working great for years and that`s with a 2600lb clutch and ton`s of drag strip duty and other abuse thrown at it.

Awesome times guys....Violacleff if your interested in having something at a track in Calif. PM me.A couple years back a few Hybrid z members got together at Sacramento Raceway and had a great time.BTW I ended up running an 11.1@125mph.

I will post a pic in a day or two of a aircraft style oil air seporator that was constructed by a friend of mine.It uses centrifical force to seperate the air and oil then uses a drain tube to deposit the oil back into the engine.It works great and eliminates having to use a PCV valve.

I wouldn`t use the R180 for dragstrip duty.I have a collection of broken R180 stub axels from hooking up on a sticky track.I drove around for a bit in a R180 with a welded diff with my old N20 motor and it was entertaing as times.I ended up buying a LSD.Then a R200 with a NISMO LSD , LOTS of hard drag launches later the diff still works great.

I run the stock U joint axels with NISMO soild U joints.One pair of axels lasts me a season of drag racing.The stock 280z stub axels are use as well.The only breakage problem that I have had was when using Neapco "Brute Force" U joints, one launch on a sticky track on slicks and the joint went, snap, crackle,pop.The good thing about the stock units is since I had a spare axel I was racing 30 minuts later.When the NISMO U joints become NLA , the plan is to make a setof adaptors and customs axels using Porsche 930 CV`s.

If your just looking for a mild upgrade , check with some of the japanese engine exchanges.An adaptor plate could be made and a CT26 turbo from a 3rd gen Supra could be used.The last one I bought was $90 and the units are a small T4 and capable of up to 300rwh.I ran 12.6@ 106 with one of these units with race gas and 14psi.

I know of a race prepped 3 liter bottom end that is sitting in the shop of the engine builder that did my first 3 liter.PM if your interested.

My question to you would be, how much HP do you want ?That would make the determination as to what mods to make.

The setup looks awesome, I ran/run an external wastegate(it uses a 12v smog valve to cut the boost to the diaphram when not on N20) that is used in conjunction with an internal wastegate.A friend just put an external unit with a 60-1 vented to atmosphere and it sounds great, just don`t want to be near any traffic cops when it sounds off.

In 81 the turbo motor used a 360 tooth gear on the crank and an external sensor for the CAS.The distributor on these motors is empty except for a rotor and simply distributes spark.I just had one modified to use as a cam position sensor for the AEM EMS that should be up and running fairly soon.