Zinpieces

Does Inspector Clouseau know that his ride is missing?

Thanks for the comment, but I did not invent this. If you search this site you will find that the Subie to Datsun rack is a well known swop. It is basically a bolt in. That said a Subaru is wider than a Datsun. fortunately the difference between the two is in the tie rods not the racks. I used Subaru outer tie rod ends NAPA part # ES3712 and Toyota inners part # ES2279R They have the correct thread pitch and allow for good adjustment. This is where I did things a little different from most. The common method of installing the Subie rack is to lay it back in the same way the Datsun lies. This connects to the steering shaft like a stock setup, it can cause problems with header clearance. The other thing that bothered me was having to clearance to left motor mount pedestal to allow for the larger power body. The stock rack has a small input that fits inside the motor mount. What I did was rotate the rack forward so the input shaft pointed toward the inner fender. Then I used a Subaru double U joint although you can use anybody's double U joint. The Datsun steering sector shaft from the rag joint can be rotated to follow the inner frame rail without any problem. Than I took some aluminum and made a pillow block to support the shaft and keep everything aligned. A Chevy input shaft bearing has the right diameter to support the shaft and is a roller bearing. I recessed the bearing into the block made a retainer plate to hold it in place. The I made a bushing from aluminum with a set screw to keep the shaft from rocking in or out. The pillow block is secured to the frame rail with thru bolts coming up from the bottom. None of my bends is over 30 degrees the wheels turn lock to lock with no binding. The plumbing is close to stock. You will have to make new lines easily done with a hand bender. I connected my rack to the power steering pump on my motor. Made easier by the fact that the ZZ4 Chevy crate motor has the power steering pump on the lower left side of the motor. The thing I like most about this setup is that the structural integrity of the motor mount is retained, and it has a nice clean look. I still have to groove one end of the shaft or weld it or pin it to the knuckle but that's about it. Oh yeah, I think the rack is from a '95 or 6 Subaru, but this site has tons of documentation on this swop.

Haven't posted any progress in a while, work goes on! Today I started fitting my new tail light panel onto the car and making the backing plates for the taillights. I used a magnet on the back of the panel to help position the backing plates for making the body cut outs.

I'd say change the pump. When you buy a serpentine kit they send you a reverse flow pump. Stands to reason that going from serpentine to standard is going to require changing the pump.

Here is a trick that I have been using for years and years. Works in cars and buildings. Replace the fuse with an automotive lamp. Take a 1157 in a socket with a pair of alligator clips or spade connectors and put it in place of the fuse. Even with a direct short circuit the current flow will be limited to the draw of the lamp. A bright lamp means a short circuit. As you look through the car and move things around the bulb may suddenly either go out or dim considerably. That's when you've located the problem! Hope this helps.

I have a 240 rear up on Craigslist. I also have stock rear suspension and steering rack. Much more to follow http://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/3691859266.html

By chance were you holding the patch in with a magnet?

It does sound like a vacuum leak. Try spraying some brake clean at the intake manifold to block and carb to manifold joints. Also spray any fittings and hose connections. A small leak will suck in the brake clean and the engine rpm's will rise. it's an old school way to do things , but it works! you're not running power brakes are you? a bad booster or check valve even a bad PCV valve will give you what you got.

Techno Toy Tuning has great products and they are really nice to deal with.

Ship it home, these cars are full of suprises that you should see firsthand. Where in NY? There are some good shops in NJ

Coil polarity right?

I know I'm not really ready for wheels, but I couldn't resist these ! 245 / 45/ R17 rear and 235's up front. Sorry about the crappy pix!

3/8 - 16 bolt in a 1/4 inch plate only gives you 4 threads. I would not trust it. I'd get some 1/2 inch plate. Try a local machine shop, they charge me 2 dollars a pound for whatever aluminuim scrap I need.

That battery would explode at 60 volts, so be careful, something is fishy!

I am using a factory cable shifter with a new detent plate for 4 forward gears that came from a '69 firebird. It controls a 2004R This picture does not show how I mounted it only the new floor plate, but it was a simple install. I like the short throw and the factory lockout. It is OK for now if I decide to make a nicer handle it won't be a problem

I am using stock Q-45 rear brakes mated to a T3 rear suspension setup. For the fronts I am using 12.2 in Wilwood rotors and lightweight 4 piston calipers on T3 five lug front hubs. Technotoytuning has developed a five lug hub for 240Z spindles that really is sweet!

Got my power back Saturday night. I've been out till all hours doing generator hookups. Usually I get tree damage around my place . This storm I lucked out. Many of my neighbors did not. Gasoline remains the big problem although even with odd and even I was able to fill my gas cans three times and refill my truck from them right at the station. Just could not pump directly into the truck on an even day. I also got lucky with a short can line! hope everyone in the Z community is OK

Got one here in New Jersey, come get it!

I'll second that! The stance is perfect. Please share the details!

Might look like this! Found this picture awhile ago, not sure who to credit, you're post reminded me of it.

I grabbed the pedals and the master booster assembly out of my Q-45 donor. They are in my Z right now. I used the T3 rear suspension kit with shortened Q-45 axles and also used the Q-45 rear brakes.

You might try Old Air Products. I needed an upgrade for my suction throttling valve and they sold me a thermostat that clipped to the evaporator and controlled the compressor. They also had a neat kit to bypass the suction throttling valve by changing out the internals and leaving the body in place preserving the "stock" appearance

Great stance, what sizes are the rims and rubber?

I posted a solution to your problem in this topic. Do a search for Frozen Strut

Make me an offer and I'll send you a pair of pedals