Cruez

If not the switch check the fuse links... I can't remember which one and what it does exactly but one of them powers the lights....

Haltech is another one.. I know there are a few more but I can't remember off the top of my head..

Actually it looks like a blown up version of a slot car

Does midas or mineke do that stuff because there are no muffler shops near me that do mandrel bending...

Ok, since I have gone to the 240 SX TB, I now need to make a new cold air intake for it.. The last one did not exactly have smooth curves and I am trying to find out where I can get the smooth curved pieces to make a new one and get it powder coated. Looks like I need at least 2" ID Where do ya get that stuff at? (I really don't want to use PVC pipe )

Looks like a homemade job to me.

Intake cost me $75. I have an invoice at work for the rest of the parts... They estimated it around $225 for all of it, but it ended up being around $140.. The fuel rail is done also... Hopefully I'll have it all together soon..

Hopefully the heat shield that was done in coolchrome will reflect most of the heat away from the header.. I originally did the intake in white.... but it yellowed pretty quickly.. hence the blue color now Its a blue hammertone finish.. It seems to be pretty durable... much better than paint.. it will chip if stuck hard enough... but since its a plastic like resin... its alot more durable than paint..

Here is the map sensor... http://www.cruez.com/cgi-bin/album.pl?photo=map.jpg

Just got the intake back from getting powder coated... Turned out much better than I expected. I think it looks great. Pics Finished intake Closeup of actual finish Had some other parts powder coated too.. the heat shield was coated with chrome look ceramic..

not bad, but the rear bumper is hideous...

Rust free eh?.. thats one very good thing you have going for you. The fuse links can be a problem.. Also the connections on the fuse box (they get corroded) Give her a good tune up, advance the timing a bit.. for starters.. about the electric fan deal....that has been a debate for quite a while... I have seen tests where a stock clutch type fan is less of a hp hog than an electric fan... It all depends on how much you use the electric fan and if your clutch on the fan is in good condition...

My intake should be finished tommorrow. Then I'll have to put it back together again... I still have some brackets and whatnots to make for my new mods. so I figure I'll need one in couple of weeks.. BTW what are the differences in map sensors... connection wise...?? I'll get a pic of mine and post it...

I wonder If I can find someone to trade... its brand new... Looks like I want the 1 bar, I would rather have more control that it will provide me... Thanks for all the info..

The steel blocks that are in there are about 3 inches tall... I plan on taking them out and lowering the front by the torsion bars anyway...( front has some wicked camber) and get it back to stock height. Maybe that will fix it... Before I mess with the torsion bars, if I take out the bolts on the threaded rods... is it going to spring out with violent force?.

Its a manual, but... It will do it even after its fully engaged.. No misfires now, I just tuned it up tuesday. Center tailshaft mounting rubber... hmmm what part is that exactly.. There are 3 shafts... the one from the transfer case to the front diff.. the rear (main) driveshaft and the small one between the tranny and the transfer case.... I know on my other truck it had a mount midway between the driveshaft as some sort of carrier... but tis one does not. Is it possible there is an internal problem with the rear diff? If so what do I need to look at if I pull off the cover.. Maybe I need someone to drive it while I hang my head under the truck

Wow... What was that metallic green one??? Is that the MID4?

oops... no diff mounts... never worked on a truck Anyway... there seems to be no slack in any of the drivetrain...I rocked it back and forth to see if I saw anything abnormal... nothing.. What else could it be... I'm baffled...

Gotcha... Since the 3 bar has a higher scale.... the portion that I wil be using will have larger increments.... right???

Ok gotta question.. I know about what map sensors are for..Basically they read manifold pressure... but what is the main difference between 1, 2 and three bar sensors..?? besides reading above absolute pressure?? I have a N/A setup that I am running but the map sensor that came with it was for a turbo setup. It is a 3 bar sensor...I know I should have a 1 bar, but will it affect anything by using it? besides overkilll

Odd.. I haven't seen one leak yet... stuck yes, leak... no Sure its not the cold start injector? Can you see the gas?

I used screws and bolts.. I didn't mold them into the bodywork in case of an accident (less to fix) I put the fasteners in places that are hard to see. The only ones that are visible were on the side skirts and they are kind of camouflaged as well.

There are acutally three shafts.. (4x4)... but the differential answer could be a possibility.... The vibration is so bad the whole truck shakes with the tranny moving quite a bit also.. I'll have to take a look at the diff mounts.... I didn't even think of that.. The truck has a lift kit on it... (except the front , they just turned up the torsion bars)... I am assuming that would have some effects to it as well... right? If it was not done correctly?

This isnt exactly a hybrid post but I bought a '86 4x4 Nissan PU over the weekend for cheap.. my other one died on me I noticed when you start off or when you have your foot into the gas there is a lot of vibration, I mean a lot... While normal driving seems to be fine... Its when you put the torque to it when it acts this way... I looked at the shafts.... pushed a little on the tranny mount but I don't see anything unusally loose. Is there something I'm overlooking??

Did you see the pricing?