Namor

Unless I am mistaken, the mustache bar is spring steel and if welded will harden and be susceptible to cracking at the edge of any welds. I would think you would be better off making one out of mild steel flat bar than welding to the stock one. It might be more prone to bending (however, with a solid front mount I don't think this would be a concern) but you shouldn't have to worry about it cracking.

Thanks, that is really good to know. I had considered getting it to repair my valance because I have a replacement from a donor, but with all the spot weld holes drilled, it is going to require quite a bit of work. I can patch holes though, shaping flat sheet metal, not so much.

Ask a bodyshop

That's the lower rear valance. Outside of cutting a replacement from a donor car, the only replacement I know of is from Zedd Findings http://www.datsunzparts.com/products.html

If it is a cheap brand, there may be no difference. Engine Masters on Motor Trend tested a bunch of mufflers and found that the cheap 3" mufflers were actually a 2.5" core with 3" inlets and outlets and the cheap 2.5" mufflers were still a 2.5" core.

Oh see, on the 240z the logo is ON the glovebox. On the 280z's it is NEAR the glovebox, so the dash caps you have a hole so the logo shows through, but you can imagine how well the hole lines up.

This is headed a little off-topic but here is a podcast where Shane Tecklenburg answers a question about wheel slip. He says pretty much any tire is going get the best acceleration at around 8%-14% wheel slip and more like 20%-40% for a slick. Counter intuitive but it's reality.

I think I have a set of the finishing pieces (2 corners and a straight piece), I'll check when I get home tonight.

I wish they didn't even have the hole for the logo near the glovebox. 240z's didn't have that logo, did they?

Check out weldingtipsandtricks on youtube. He has done a review of the AHP and the at least one of the Everlasts I believe.

I'd guess that it is a more recent development than the RT mount.

It's listed on Energy Suspension's website with this description "Same Mount as the 3.1108 except shorter to accomodate custom applications." http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/3.1158

I don't know how much lower the front of the diff will be with that mount, but there is a shorter version of the energy suspension mount that would help bring the nose of the diff back up some. Look into part number 3.1158

Why would a deposit be necessary? They have possession of the car, if the owner refuses payment, they can refuse to release the car to them.

I have an Eastwood Mig and an AHP Alphatig 200x. I have been very happy with both. The only gripe I have with either of them is the Alphatig breaker is on the back of the machine, so depending on how you have it position, it is kind of a pain in the butt. Oh yeah, the Eastwood got delivered damaged, contacted Eastwood and never heard anything from them. It was superficial damage so I didn't sweat it (plastic hinges on the door were broken.) That was 5 years ago and it still works great.

I don't think there is any performance advantage to weld-in vs. bolt-in besides the fact that there is another connection point that can induce changes in geometry or failure points. Really, I think it is mostly a matter of aesthetics though.

I don't remember running into any issues when I installed my pedal assembly/master cylinder but I have a 280z and it appears as though there are slight differences. If you look here, it looks like their pedal has a bracket welded to the pedal to correct the offset. http://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2015-10-28/240z-pedal-box-throttle-pedal-assembly/ I noticed the same thing in a few other pictures. And if you read this thread, it sounds like the same issue you have as a result of trying to use a 280z pedal in a 240z pedal box.

Oh, I didn't realize that older versions of MS use a time-based PW adder instead of percent-based. All I know off the top of my head is that my car idles somewhere between 1.5 - 2ms, with 450cc injectors. Btw, why do you think percent-based is archaic?

Here are some resources that I was directed to when I started to focus on AE. For now I have gone with the method outlined in the first video and have gotten decent results. and a post by someone in response to my question "Personally I use EAE, once you get it all set up I get the best results with it. With the stock settings and no tuning it will make your car run like shit. If you want something to get up and running quick, use time based or AE pump. If you have the time and dedication set up EAE and use AE pump for large stabs. For EAE your going to want to do some pulls at ~ half you rev range, ie your car redline is 8000, do the pulls at 4000. Negate the coolant temp and RPM corrections Slowly, but steadily roll onto the throttle until WOT, hold WOT for ~2-3 seconds, then at the same rate slowly roll off the throttle till your in overrun. There are a few methods to do this, what I find best is this. Added to Walls is the coefficient that tells the ECU how much fuel is sticking to the walls, there for it directly controls pulse width. If you tell the ECU more fuel is being stuck to the walls, it will increase injector pulse width to compensate. If you are rich on tip in, decrease this value, too lean increase this value. Sucked from Walls is the coefficient that tells the ECU how much fuel is being sucked from the walls, it indirectly controls pulse width, If you tell the ECU more fuel is being sucked from the walls, it will decrease injector pulse width to compensate. If you are rich on tip out, decrease this value, too rich increase this value. Once you have this settled for your current rpm range, tune the RPM modifiers then I suggest setting up a rough map in the coolant temp modifiers based on logic. More fuel is going to stick to a cool engine wall, etc. Then tune that as you would cold starts. Once that is all settled you will find you can greatly reduce your Accel pump AE and really only utilize that for large quick stabs on the throttle. Turbomiata has a few good threads on setting up EAE, honestly for MS stuff look into the miata community. They by far have the most experience with the system and the community is good about sharing reliable information. If you are using EAE with a flex fuel set up, keep that in mind and realize you'll need to make some compromises on each base fuel for blends to work smoothly. If you got any question let me know."

Just before the site migration, I donated (since my previous donation had expired) but continued to get daily PMs about my member group changing. The PMs have thankfully stopped since the migration, but my member status doesn't reflect my recent donation. Am I going to have to donate again or can this be fixed?

I have one kicking around if no one local to you has one for sale.

Offset grind or completely different crank doesn't matter. If you increase the stroke, you will have to decrease the rod length to maintain the same piston deck clearance. If you started with zero deck clearance and increased both the stroke and the rod length, your piston is going to come proud of the deck and slam into the head. Unless, you change your pistons for ones with a shorter pin height or you alter the dimensions of the block.

I should still have an entire turbo at the house somewhere, including the wastegate. The turbo would need to be rebuilt if you wanted to use it. I'll send you a PM later once I check.

Figured I'd post an update. Thanks to your feedback I finally ordered one, (from Amazon as it was the cheapest when I ordered) and it appears to be an actual factory Nissan part, complete with a Nissan Group Genuine Parts sticker and other markings in Japanese on the box. I couldn't be more pleased with it.

Would you sell just the standoffs and hardware? I bought a bracket from ZCCJDM a while back, but didn't come with any of the hardware and I'd rather get it as a kit than source it myself.