Namor

I hardwired a 5v buck converter to a USB port designed for my daily driver. It charged my stuff REALLY slow at first but I realized I had to short the Data pins together to get my devices to charge at a high rate. If the two data connections aren't shorted together, your phone/tablet/etc thinks it is connected to a computer USB port and limits it's charging to 500mA. Not the cheapest route, but here is the exact converter I used. https://www.adafruit.com/product/1385 You could use something like this to flushmount the port itself. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WWNZ18N?psc=1

Too bad the Factory Five 818 is setup to accept parts from an 07 WRX but not 08+

I wonder how difficult it would be for someone to report your ads to eBay "as Nissan." Spoofing e-mails isn't difficult and if your competitors can easily get your ads removed, it means more money for them.

I don't know if anyone else here listens to podcasts, but I have recently come across a really good one for those of us who are interested in the details of automotive engineering. https://www.facebook.com/powerandspeedpodcast/ They have recently had guests on such as Greg Banish of Calibrated success, Ben Strader of EFI University, Paul Yaw and Tony Palo of Injector Dynamics and a bunch more. I'm slowly working my way through back episodes because the content is so good.

So, I have spent a lot of time reading about deadtime and trying to figure out what to set mine to (DSM 450cc low imp injectors with resistors.) I first tried measuring deadtime using a graduated cylinder and test mode in tunerstudio. I got very accurate results, but couldn't come up with a good way to test at various voltages because to use the megasquirt drivers, I couldn't have the engine running. So I was able to come up with a number, but it was only for 11.9 volts, which doesn't help a lot for a running engine. After some more reading, I came across something so simple that I felt like an idiot for not thinking of it. Ensure you are setup for batch injection and then cycle between 1 and 2 squirts per cycle. If your deadtime is accurate, your AFRs shouldn't change. If your deadtime is too long, when you go to 2 squirts per cycle you are going to be injecting more fuel than the computer thinks and you will go rich. If your deadtime is too short, in 2 squirts per cycle you will go lean. Now I have a pretty good number for both ~11.9 volts and ~13.9 volts and between the two I can set up a slope.

I'm sorry if my post offended you or upset you by my lack of faith in your ability. However, the reality is this, the size of the project is immense. You are asking how much fabrication is necessary, almost as though you are hoping it is primarily a bolt-on affair. Almost without exception, when someone asks the question "how much fabrication is necessary?" the answer is "more than you think." Anyone who has done any real fabrication on their car, probably look at this idea and immediately have a few thoughts. 1. Holy shit, that is going to be A LOT of work/time/money. 2. I hope the original poster is truly capable of this if he starts 3. And if he isn't capable, then I hope the original poster can recognize it and avoid costing himself a lot of time/money in route to ruining a potentially good S30 chassis. Look at what TUME post and think really hard about it and realize that is just the rear. You are likely going to have to completely chop up the front as well. I mentioned the power steering question because it isn't a question that someone with the requisite knowledge/experience/abilities for a project of this size would ever need to ask. It's like someone setting up a chess match with a chess master for a couple thousand dollars and then asking the rules for how a pawn moves and attacks. Could they beat the chess master? Sure, anything could happen. The most likely outcome though is disappointment. I hope someone changes your mind, but good luck if you continue on.

The fact that you are asking how to make power steering work is a giant red flag to me and I'm guessing that this project is way beyond what you should attempt. But good luck and take lots of pics.

I would be very surprised if anyone ever has because S2000s have held their value very well. So, I'd imagine that acquiring a complete subframe wouldn't exactly be cheap.

Just fitting the unit behind/under the dash without removing it is a pain in the ass. I bought a mock-up unit and slipped it sort of in place but will definitely be removing my dash for the actual install. I don't even want to think about trying to fabricate mounts and run ductwork and lines with the dash in place.

The exhaust cutout area of his valance seems to go up a lot further than what is on my car now ('77 280z) is there a difference between early and late S30s that I never noticed? Also, I want to be able to patch in a second cutout on the passenger side for dual exhaust so I'm really looking for a source for just the cutout area.

I'm wanting to find a source for patch panels of the exhaust cutout area on the rear valance. I'll obviously be cutting and welding, so it doesn't have to be Datsun specific but ideally would be as similar as possible to the stock shape/size.

Has anyone bought a new 280z Center Console recently? If so, I'm curious about the quality. Based on the assumption that they are all from the same supplier, I'm inclined to just go with the cheapest and since that would be from eBay I know they would take care of any issue if I have one. Thoughts? Here are links to some of the sellers, ranging in price from $185 to $293. http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-260Z-280Z-Center-Console-With-Slot-for-Choke-Lever-/262693610770?hash=item3d29c26512:g:zDkAAOSwwE5WVbnk&vxp=mtr http://www.zcarsource.com/center-console-280z-77-78-new_8_56341_58616.html https://zcardepot.com/interior/console/center-console-interior-oem-260z-280z-74-78.html http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/40-2406 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00310M8ZQ/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i1?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pd_rd_i=B00310M8ZQ&pd_rd_r=3HGA7BQEESQFB6VJWDM0&pd_rd_w=vjqR6&pd_rd_wg=zXDj7&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=MXVQCHD920SE1CHF2WGP&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=781f4767-b4d4-466b-8c26-2639359664eb&pf_rd_i=desktop

*edit* nevermind. I was thinking you were talking about brake master cylinder for some reason.

Oh, I didn't realize the pan was aluminum.

I've never done any research any oil pan modification, but is there any reason you couldn't just modify the stock oil pan to be rear sump instead of buying one premade? It doesn't seem like that difficult of a change.

Makes sense. I just looked at a picture of the rotor and it looks like it would give about 35 degrees of retard if setup properly. I wonder if between the stock ECU and MS, it is trying to adjust the timing outside that range (either due to distributor being clocked incorrectly, or improper total timing adjustment in MS/Stock ECU) causing it to attempt to fire the coil with no flowpath. That would cause sporadic ignition timing and therefore sporadic RPM readings.

The issue might be the stock ECU. No one is going to be able to help you until you eliminate that from your car. There is no reason to keep it. I doubt anyone knows exactly what the stock ECU is doing and no one is going to do the research to figure it out so that you can run a weird piggybacked setup. Check if your MSII has a BIP373 like Chickenman explained and if it doesn't (which I bet it doesn't) then buy one and install it. I assumed he doesn't because if you look at the pre-assembled MSII product page it says this "Slot for installing a BIP373 (not included) for direct coil control" https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirt-ii-ems-system-smd-pcb3-57-assembled-ecu/ The other question I have, and this is directed to anyone who has used MS while staying with a single coil and distributor. Can MS even adjust timing? Wouldn't you set timing and lock it and then allow the distributor advance to control timing? I would think the timing is essentially set by the rotor and cap, but then again I opted to go wasted spark when setting up MS on my car so I don't have any experience with it.

Oh and directly from the product page for the trigger wheel "This one replaces the ring of four slits with a 24-1-1 wheel that behaves like a 12-1 crank trigger. Then we added an outside slot to provide a cam sync where the 360 degree slot ring works." https://www.diyautotune.com/product/54-mm-optical-trigger-wheel-for-nissan-l28et-or-vg30e/

It's all been explained in layman's terms in this thread. The distributor spins at Camshaft speed (1/2 Crankshaft speed) the 24-1-1 slots are to simulate a 12-1 crank shaft trigger wheel. So it spins half a revolution and it sees 12-1. Spins the other half revolution and sees 12-1. Unless you are converting to electronic ignition and going away from the distributor or are going to fully sequential injection, you don't need the "cam signal" which comes from the lone long slot. All that slot does (when wired up) is tells the ECU which stroke the engine is on, compression or exhaust. Seriously, just follow the guide that diyautotune has for using their trigger wheel. As for not firing when hooked up directly to pin 36, you need an ignitor for your coil. Pin 36 is only a 5v logic level output. There should be a spot on your board to add this https://www.diyautotune.com/product/bosch-bip373-coil-driver-mod-kit/

That's exactly the reason. It basically uses the trigger wheel to get both a cam signal (the one long slot by itself) and a crank signal (the 24-1-1 slots)

The picture says "Metal Lock-in Gutter Guard" so I would assume it is metal.

I received both sets from Courtesy Nissan and MSA and figured I would report back that...SURPRISE, SURPRISE, they are all the same. So either MSA or Courtesy Nissan has them mislabeled. At least now I know I can just bend the tabs or cut them off.

It makes sense...afterall they ARE just shims. It's one of those things where you feel dumb after having someone point something like that out. Oh well, both sets ordered already, but hopefully someone else benefits from this info. Thanks everyone.

By maps, I really meant full tune because you need to check every setting anyway rather than just hoping their setup matches yours. But really, you shouldn't even NEED the timing or fuel maps from someone to just get it fired up. It is just helps get a little bit closer a little bit quicker. If you are completely dependent on getting someone else's tune, I would recommend reading and learning more.

You shouldn't need someone else's maps just to get it to fire up, but if that's what you are trying then just create a new file and manually input timing and fuel values from someone who has posted pictures of their maps online.