TimZ

I think you'll probably be fine, but I would recommend a couple of things - first, the o-rings can make it more difficult for the gasket's oil and water passages to seal properly, so you might consider using using hylomar or copper seal on the gasket. Second, since you are using the o-ring to add extra crush to the gasket, you should re-torque it after a few heat cycles on the engine, as the gasket will likely settle a bit. I would do this two or three times while breaking the engine in.

I'm using a 240mm SPEC Stage 5 clutch with the rebuildable aluminum pressure plate option. It's holding well over 600lb-ft at the flywheel, and is shockingly driveable - pedal effort is reasonable and it doesn't chatter on a normal launch in traffic, in spite of having an unsprung hub. It has a full-face sintered iron disc. The only downside has been longevity - I was using this with an 8lb fidanza flywheel and was getting roughly a summer of good use out of it before it needed replacement. Since switching to a 10lb Fidanza it appears to be faring better - I suspect that the slightly heavier flywheel is requiring less slippage in traffic and is helping in that regard. This is mitigated a bit by the pressure plate being rebuildable at a reasonable price, but I still have to pull the trans more often than I'd like. For your power level they have several options that will likely have more "normal" longevity and a sprung hub if you prefer.

I'm confused as to what I'm looking at here. Is the hole in the knuckle actually drilled at that angle, or is it just oversized by that much? Either way I agree with your assessment - that looks funky. Also, those appear to be safety washers, intended to keep the bolt from pulling through the heim joint if the ball fails. They are cupped like that to not limit the travel of the joint. I'm not sure why there is one between the knuckle and the heim joint - that's usually where the adjustment spacers go, and the joint can't fail in a way that that washer would help anything. I guess you could stack more of those washers to get your adjustment, but that's usually done with sections of tubing cut to the proper length. I'd be worried that the washers would flatten out under stress and lose clamping force if you used them as spacers.

If I'm interpreting this correctly, the type of o-ring you have is intended to be used with a stock gasket and adds some "crush" to the gasket around the chambers. This should _not_ be used with an MLS gasket.

Save yourself some heartache and research the use of slipjoints/bellows to alleviate flange warpage and fatigue cracking and DESIGN THEM IN UP FRONT. This has been the downfall of pretty much every turbo header design for this engine.

I think I might have one from my '78 sitting in my garage's attic... No idea as to what other years it will fit.

If the two busses are the same data rate ("high" speed can still be either 500k or 1Mbaud) AND both only need messages in the standard OBD-II message set, then this might work. The problem that I would look out for would be if both modules are normally on their respective vehicle's main high speed bus, then there are almost certainly other proprietary messages being used by both, and if any of them happen to be on the same message ID it will likely crash the bus.

Well, that assumes that you are starting with a combination that has a prayer of giving you the results you want. The OP isn't in this situation. At this point for him, trial and error would mean buying random springs/collars and trying things until something works, which isn't so fast. 74_5.0L_Z's advice is dead on here. If you go back to his original response, the advice of using a longer spring with the same rate was probably the easiest path to take. I'm running 14" 140lb/in on the front of mine (I'm in Detroit and stiff suspensions don't last very long here).

Can't answer swap specifics, but this Wilwood part is a direct bolt-in (mostly). You can swap the stock pushrod into it, and if you add a 1/8npt 90deg street elbow and a 1/8npt to 10mm inverted flare adapter, the stock line even comes out in the right place. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?group=Compact%20Remote%20Flange%20Mt%20Master%20Cyl-1/8%20NPT%20Outlet Here's a couple of related posts: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/122481-wilwood-compact-clutch-master-cylinder-no-260-10374/?hl=%2Bwilwood+%2Bclutch http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/94004-easy-clutch-master-swap/?hl=%2Bwilwood+%2Bclutch (different master cylinder, but the pushrod swap is the same)

Yes - it was the stonewall part, same as Xnke mentioned.

Take a look through this thread, especially Tony's comments in the 4th post... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/77587-what-is-compressor-surge-explanation-within/?hl=stonewall&do=findComment&comment=738318

You wouldn't think it would be an issue, but I found out the hard way that it can be. It just underscores the fact that you really need to be diligent with parts like this. The Nissan Comp or the Kameari bolts are both good parts, just make sure you check fitment! Also, as I recall both of these bolts are longer than the stock piece, so you should also check to make sure the threads are clear in the crank snout, and that the bolt doesn't bottom out early.

Just to clarify - the washer was seating all the way. The problem was that it was seating on the crank snout instead of the damper!

If you end up installing it like this, be very careful that the raised center does not make contact with the crank snout when the bolt is fully tightened. If the washer contacts the snout, then you will not achieve proper clamping force on the damper/oil slinger/oil pump drive/sprocket stack, leaving only the woodruff keys to hold everything in the proper timing orientation and drive the timing chain, oil pump and accessory belts. This usually doesn't end well. You can go to the trouble of measuring the clearance, or you can give up maybe 1/16" of thread penetration and just flip the washer and not worry about it... Also this has been discussed before, try a search on crank damper failures.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/92564-change-tailhouse-on-a-t5-wc/?hl=gforce&do=findComment&comment=922918

The main reason to use sequential injection is to allow better control over your fuel delivery at low load/idle when using larger injectors (larger than 50lb/hr or so). If you are having to get down into the sub- 2mS pulsewidth range at idle without sequential injection, then doubling the pulsewidth is really helpful/neccessary. For a <300hp build, you probably won't need to use injectors that are large enough to require this.

Nope - the whole thing is ruined. Send it to me for disposal immediately.

Have you tried The Google? It is your friend. Jim Cook Jim Cook Racing Datsun Here's one of many links from those searches: http://zhome.com/Oct2000/CalZ.htm

I approve! That is some very nice work.

Here's the thread for Monzter's intake: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/61549-turbo-intake-plenum/?hl=monzter

Hey - I know how to make a project more expensive too! mwahahaha

Ya know what would be cool? There was a guy (monzter) a few years ago that did a gorgeous turbo intake plenum for a "regular" L6 head with ITBs. Also done up in CAD with flow models and everything - I'll bet it wouldn't be too big a stretch to take that design, mirror it and adapt the intake runners for this head... Just sayin...

I was thinking that too. Also could be the thermostat housing, with fluid running down the head/block interface surface and dripping off at the rear.

It's not just the angle toward the inlet - direct the dumped gasses off-center to the turbine inlet so that the resulting "swirl" is in the same direction as the turbine.

Post #405 in that thread tells you everything you need to know. Do. Not. Loop. If you anybody tells you otherwise you should ignore anything they have to say regarding cooling from that point forward.