TimZ

Am I the only one who is confused by this statement? Are you saying that you think a piece of the headgasket came out of the wastegate dump tube on fire? Is your dump tube pointing up?

Hmmm... that sounds familiar. Somebody smart must have said that... ;P

Okay, this is a bit late, but search ebay for "Powerstroke Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor" or "Powerstroke EBP". They have approximately a 3.5 bar range, from 34kPa at 0 Volts to 390kPa at 5 Volts. I'm currently using one for both instrumenting my Turbine Inlet Pressure, and another as my MAP sensor. Works great as a MAP since I don't pull much vacuum at idle anyway, and it gives me roughly the same boost capacity with better resolution than a 4bar sensor!

I'm running a .540 lift Isky cam and it does not have issues with valves hitting the pistons, at least not with my grind and my pistons. You will definitely want to check the clearance between your valve spring retainers and the valve stem seals at max lift, though. I had to find the shortest stem seals possible and cut the tops of the valve guides down, such that the seals sat pretty much flush with the spring seat in order for everything to clear properly at max lift. Also a good idea to check to make sure that the springs don't bind at max lift, regardless of what lift they claim the springs will work with. Check both the inner and outer springs.

I'm using it to insulate my fuel lines - it's been holding up pretty well, but I can't give you any data on actual heat reduction. I used a combination of home pipe insulation wrapped with the reflect-a-gold... https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Iy6pb0U6hHjroSW3GeJtvAZudKip4JM0HBtQ6hItqDTJCPT6gddpTxBejaNwuiGruyKtShdPbS9rQW8ppj70XEB2vEBbjyvgJyiVC_bai2OxiFlF5Cs8bi7vC5a4sWTEDlt-j6Gq5bEL_gYRVChWq6nVCtTJODrNZIj362-zWdt4xAL_wG1EV0bJDFsh6FKNWLpXaYkyqibzcMIaBH6keqKS8Y_vmgN4U_rOXdHNkMlRYoxulMjOrja7DmXCTSlH9JYPb72m3IQjY41owZsqU84Eucf2WuWMPjJT-CV5i9jUEhAFttzIh2qR66wp6USlnV1cF42g6723GpRN7yN9yxiPuQgnygWiXMditpWjqACRCM1_K9ahKZHwnPv1wIpcBQcKdpOBT79qBKt4zG1rQ1BaS0QoKKy-eM34IcLEjmYNQLiIKjE5DJN2HtaXfpHgIsFFK29ovXOm8YKrm4XwW6_O6wtEx04mVd6nmOwZ8yLFiYwgAHrAvPPCMPz-9bPt457aLDmPvwoboQ9_3ycmF1uloLFg2yarAcbVJ7LAhC74Jk7vL9Xqk-AIEJspnIZL8TK8nxmtrmwuzQ5VGjWlYS91ulzPnC8=w1586-h892-no

Also, if you don't feel like dissassemling everything to do this, Green Loctite works similarly to penetrating oil and can be applied to assembled joints. It's a medium strength theadlocker too, similar to blue.

Also worth noting that the pics are not all of the same crank. The first pic is of a fully counterbalanced crank, the rest are not.

You want the slip joints to be able to expand in the direction that the manifold is going to grow as it heats up. I'm thinking I would put single slips in the following locations: You'll also likely want to support the turbo but that's a separate issue.

Slip joints will work just fine for this application and don't take up that much space. Burns has single and double slips for this. I've been using single slips on my manifold for several years now with no leakage issues - the inner tube tends to heat and expand more than the outer so it seals just fine once hot. You are at a point now where you could implement this and not have to f*** with fixing it later, and you will almost certainly have to fix it later if you don't address it now... http://www.burnsstainless.com/Slips.aspx

I just plumbed a hydraulic brake light switch into the clutch hydraulic line, like this one: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-80174

One "like" per day? Why so stingy I wonder?

Me too, for as long as the "like" button has been there. I vaguely recall somebody saying that you had to be a contributing member for it to work, but I've never seen a confirmation of this.

Two words: Expansion Joints. You need expansion joints.

I converted my system to R134 several years ago and it's still going strong - the copper lines have not been a problem.. You will want to flush the entire system to get the old oil out (I used mineral oil as I recall), and replace the dryer and pressure switch with r134 compatible ones. Also use the ester compressor oil, not the PAG stuff - it's designed to be more compatible with r12 to r134 conversions. If you decide to use any additives like "stop leak" or whatever, check to be sure that it does not contain PAG oil - it's not compatible with ester.

Probably both. Your fuel pump inlet is cavitating and the pump has destroyed itself as a result - once they start whining and losing pressure like that they don't get better.. Check to make sure that you have minimized any restrictions on the inlet, and also make sure that the tank is properly vented. What kind of filter is that on the inlet (I'm assuming it's the inlet)? As you mentioned, running on a low tank is also not a great idea - the less fuel you have the quicker the fuel temps rise (less thermal mass in the tank), and hot fuel cavitates much more easily.

That looks really good Derek (as usual). One thing worth mentioning for others considering this path is that (at least in my experience) the stock speedo and tach will not install with a cap in place. The Speedhut and other aftermarket gauges are probably small enough to clear the cap but the stock items will not.

Check the damper for hairline cracks, usually found along the slot for the keyway. Here's a thread where something similar was discussed: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91212-cracked-crank-pulley-worn-woodruff-keys-crank/?hl=damper&do=findComment&comment=868448

Nope - sorry. Damage like that is not likely caused by an ignition issue. Something made physical contact with the plug. Period. Could be that something got ingested into the engine and has subsequently left the engine, or something is wrong in that cylinder. I had similar damage when I had a valve seat become unseated - it was held captive by the valve and then popped back into the seat, so it was hard to figure out at first.

Is your thread chaser a conventional tap? You need a bottoming tap to get the last few threads... http://www.kanabco.com/vms/cutting_tools_tap/cutting_tools_tap_06.html

I agree - this won't hurt anything. _DO_ smooth any rough edges as suggested, though. Especially for a turbo, you don't want to give detonation a place to start when you can avoid it.

What fuel are you using? Octane?

So when you say the plugs are fouled, do the two plugs in 5 and 6 just have discoloration on the insulator, or do they literally not fire? In general, "fouled" means a specific thing - carbon deposits creating an electrical path to ground and effectively shorting out the center electrode, such that it cannot fire. If you are seeing 9:1 AFRs with gasoline (this is not e85, right?), I'd expect some discoloration (probably more than that). I'm actually a bit confused how the other plugs could look so clean with those mixtures. I was also thinking maybe some oil leaking past the valve stem seals on 5 and 6, but I'd expect to see some nastiness on the ground strap in that case.

Terrible news. I'm speechless. Thoughts and condolences for his friends and family.

Just FYI - that behavior is by design and was intended to alert you to the fact that you have a bad bulb.

Miles brings up a very good point. Your 60-to-0 stopping distance will likely not change at all with a rear disc upgrade, and if you get the balance of the system wrong, you could pretty easily make it worse and more dangerous at the same time. The stock Z's braking system will stop your car just fine for almost all street use from sane speeds if it's up to spec. The thing that you get with the rear disc upgrade/bigger brakes is the ability to withstand/dissipate the heat that is generated when stopping repeatedly from high speeds without losing braking ability (brake fade), as you would need at the track, or on the Autobahn for instance. Okay, that and the disc brakes do look better if you have big wheels with a design that lets you see the brakes ;P If you are making a track car, then the upgrade would be helpful (if your class rules allow it). If you just want a stock-ish mildly hot street car, I'd recommend bringing the stock system up to snuff and driving that for a while and see how that works for you. As others have mentioned, parts are relatively cheap and the car is pretty easy to work on. Also Factory Service Manuals have been pdf-ed and are available for free at http://www.nicoclub.com/datsun-service-manuals