2126

Sounds like you work in Civil Service!!? I do, and love the work schedule. Allows me to really enjoy my personal life.

Take the block and have it hot-tanked. The process will clean out that thin layer of rust that is inside your coolant passages....and it will likely remove the discoloration you are talking about.

I think the relavent responces are telling you to check the condition of the bulbs, bulb socket, and connection. 30+ year old stuff (wiring and electrical components) tends to have issues (corrosion)! Tom

Great little roadster your buddy has! After its a driver again, maybe he can get meticulous with his garage.......it needs it!!!

Come on now, just because its sitting on an AWD dyno doesn't necessarilly mean the Z is AWD!

As Terry mentioned, removal of the backing plates is very common. Relocating the parts to a box or dumpster is also quite common.....mine now reside within a cardboard box in my garage! Tom

Just a thought! If the first shop you went to is as full of bull as you have indicated, please post the name and location of this shop so other members do not have to go through your learning curve. Shop owners who take advantage of one's lack of mechanical knowledge, or what ever the reason is, are just seedy low-lifes....sometimes refered to as BOTTOM FEEDERS!!! So, do your part to help eliminate their kind. Tom

Shoot Grumpy, I just thought she was breathing!!

You are likely to be OK but, there is a design reason for why the rears are longer than the fronts. To be on the safe side, do some regular inspections, once installed and in use, to insure that the shorter lines are not starting to fail due to being too short! You would likely begin to see the hose failing next to the hard fitting they are swaged into. Tom

Grumpy, if you you are interested in a really inexpensive lift....have a Red Bull, it'll give you wings!!! Sorry, I couldn't resist the urge to post a funny.

A strange thing happens on my Z when I stomp on the throttle....the friggin fuel starts disappearing!!! Man, this ones got me baffled!

Heres a cheap but effect way to make that smoke! Somewhere on your exhaust system, after the muffler probably, drill a hole to fit a small hardline. The hardline need only be big enough to stick the nozzle of a can of WD-40 into it without leaking. Spray that bad boy and make lots-O-smoke...cheaply! Could be a potential fire hazard however!

I agree with ezzzzzzz! Polishing the intake runners on a carburated engine is not a good idea! In order to minimize the IAT, you have to keep heat away from the intake system. Thats why you want a baffle (heat shield) between the exhaust header and the carbs/intake manifold. Your header wrap is also another step in minimizing radiated heat. Running ducting from the front of the car to the carbs will provide cooler air than drawing hot air from the engine compartment.

If your pickup is a 3/8" tube, it would take a pretty large piece of debris to plug it. I would say to leave it an open end, just like Datsun did, but be sure you have a filter between the tank and the fuel pump. Also, position the end of the pickup tube so it is very near the lowest point....its always a bummer to run out of fuel when you know there is still a few gallons in the tank. However, if you are concered about debris in the tank getting sucked into the pickup tube....raise it up a bit.

Is your ignition advancing properly?

The differences are..... shears are similar to a pair of scissors, just beefier and made for cutting straight lines or nice rounded curves on sheet metal. A nibbler has a relatively small pair of blades that basically nibbles small pieces of sheet metal away.....good for cutting small details, tight or blind corners and such. However, as mentioned, a plasma cutter is really nice but, much much more $$$.

Come on guys....no real man would paint their car those colors! Its has to be a women......or maybe a !!!?

Certainly one of the best kept secrets in the performance world. Jon, I also hear this will help with engine break down....oh! I mean engine brake in!!

I think this suggestion is asking for other troubles to surface! Dans suggestion is a good one. I did a similar deal with a driveline outfit...I provided the shop with my existing tranny side and differential side yoke/flange assemblies and they built a completely new drive shaft. Stronger tube, better balanced, and beefier and greasable U-joints....and they even applied a nice paint job and it is a perfect fit. Total cost was around $400.00

Sounds like lots of..........$$$ to me! Sure would be sweet, wouldn't it?

Hi Dave! From the description of brake components, I think you are on the right track about relocating the P-valve. If you can't get the feel you are looking for with the P-valve relocation, you may consider going with a set of new adjustable race type master cylinders. Have you played around with different pad componds? Changing the rear calipers my also be a consideration to increase the rear clamping force. Just some food for thought!

If you happen to be a tall person, be aware that you may be cutting yourself short on head room with some of the seats available. Typically the seats that have a full shell (fiberglass, kevlar, carbon fiber) provide the least amount of head room. The suspension type seats (like the OEM seats) provide a bit more head room. Also, if you use adjustable seat rails, they will also reduce your head room. Just some things to consider. Personally, I like the SPARCO seats. I installed a set of the Sparco "Sprints", an entry level race seat (suspension type seat)....these seats do not tilt for or aft and have relatively high side bolsters and are a bit more of a chore to get into and out of. I also left out the adjustable rails for the extra head room....just in case a helmet is needed.