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Wheel/tire size details for the guys that requested! The wheels are manufactured by Altstadt....not sure of the model but, I've never seen another set of 3pc Altstadt's like these! The fronts are 17"x 8" and the rears are 17"x 9". Tires...215-40 x 17 front, 235-40 x 17 rear. I have coilovers, sectioned struts, and camber plares but have no body mods. At the ride height I'm at (just under 4") the rears are pretty tight on clearance but no interference issues...the front have no clearance issue either. The offset on the wheels are 35mm and required me to fab up custom spacer. I've gone to 3" long MOROSO 1/2" studs so the spacers are sandwiched between the hubs and wheels. Hope this is what you guys were asking for? Tom

Yokahama, ES100's....great street performer at a very reasonable price!

Agreed, a fire exstinguisher is certainly a good idea to have handy! Got one in the 240 and a couple in the garage! You just never know when you might need one! Tom

Say what????

Looks as good, if not better, than most of the tail light transplants I've seen! Nice work! But to answer your original question about what you get when you mix the two........a Ztang of course!

Sorry but, I had to laugh at "bushlings"! The first thought that came to me was......little baby bushings, waiting to grow up to be installed on a Z!!!!

One word....SWEPCO Edit: Thanks Jon......my CRS is acting up!!!!

SAY WHAT???? I CAN'T HEAR YOU!!!!

The speedO gear color will indicate what diffy gear it was mated with however, the only way I know to I.D. a close ratio unit is to check the tranny p/n and cross reference it against the models that came with the close ratio tranny....280ZX 1983, 1984, & 1985!!!? Sorry I couldn't be of further assistance! Tom

Or, if you must have a gasket, give Courtesy Nissan a call! Tom

Just a heads-up for you guys using Hiem joints. Available are washer assemblies that have an O.D. style lip seal, intended for Hiem joint, to keep the wet and crud out of the pivot ball area. They basically install on either side of the Hiem. A company named AFCO sells these puppies. They supply alot of sprint car and modified car guys. Check out their website....good folks to deal with also! Tom

Well, here's my wheels for viewing!

Also, I believe if you walk into just about any auto parts store, they have hanging on the display racks pamphlets that provide filter crossover charts....I know PEP BOYS does anyway!

Just consider the source......! Another ballistics expert....right!

That's why there is a HYBRIDZ!!!! Tom

I checked out the pics of your modified Z....absolutely beautful work however, IMO the Z crys for a Gnose not a Cobra's! Hey, that's just me. Beautfully done otherwise!!! Tom

I'm sorry guys but, the quality of the work on that hood just plain sucks!!!! I can't imagine anyone installing such a poorly done hood on their Z and be proud of it..............sorry for my un-candy coated responce!!!!!!!!!!

You have to wonder if maybe this guy is related to the guy who attached JETTO bottles to his car and wound up burying himself in the side of a mountain!

I have personally gone through this delema myself and I'm only 5' 11". What I discovered and what seems to be the most important issue is the design of the seat....let me explain. Many of the aftermarket seats have a shell that supports the seat cuchions. This style seat, if mounted to the stock seat mounts (240, 260, 280) will raise you up and inch or more, depending if you install sliders or not. However, seats that have a similar design to stock seats, actual butt cushions that are suspended via straps, allow you to sit lower. A couple of seats you may want to look at are the entry level race seats by either SPARCO or MOMO. They are priced at around $200.00 each and are fixed (do not recline). I have the SPARCO "Sprint" seats in my 240, without any sliders, mouted directly to the stock seat mounting locations and have more than sufficient head room....even with a helmet on. Hope this info helps some!

Excellent!!!!!!!!!!

Pretty damn slick I must say!!!! Provides nice security. Can you imagine some thief casing your house/car....comes back, breaks into the garage to nab the car but, hey, it disappeared!!!WTF? Tom

Lots and lots and lots and lots of fuel/air!!!!

Don't they call that a "knass"???

Just a thought but, have you considered using oil-lite bronze. Its porous and impregnated with lube. Kinda tough on milling bits but the fact that it lubricates itself is really nice! Tom

I'm by no means an expert but, I've helped a good friend of mine fabricate CF parts for his 36' racing cat (sail boat). The specific parts are called dagger boards and see pretty high loads while under way. The dagger boards have survived over a couple of seasons of racing without failure. We used pre-preg and vacuum bagged the assemblies. We did not use or have access to an autoclave. I believe the autoclave provides quicker and better controlled curing, resulting in better integrity to the parts.......we had no access to an autoclave and couldn't have afforded it even if we did find one. However, it is important to achieve total saturation and the elimination of excess resin for a sound part. Just my 2 cents worth! Tom