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If your planning on getting a Husky, I believe you are making a really good choice. One of my dirt bikes is an 2006 TE 510 and I would recommend one to any serious dual (heavy on the dirt side) sport guy! Tom

Sectioning the struts is applicable when the chassis is lowered enough to compromise the travel with stock length struts. The bump travel is what will be compromised on stock struts when lowering the chassis! Hope this clear the air for you a bit.

It will be less costly finding a complete tranny at a pic-a-part yard. When I found mine (83 ZX 5spd), it was only $125.00. Tom

So Jon, looks like you backed out of that one pretty gracefully....just funnin with yah! Tom

Spares......First off, welcome to HybridZ. We have a mass of archives, covering just about anything you might want to do to your Z. Your question has been asked many many times....likely the reason for no replies. So, it's time to do a little searching and reading. Please help yourself to the SEARCH function...it's free! We do not intend to be rude by suggesting the use of the search function but, when you've been a member for some time you will understand! Happy hunting and again, welcome. Tom

On my 1970 240Z, I've installed an R200 and half shafts from a 83 ZX. I concur about the lengths being the same on the half shafts. During my installation, without springs on the rear struts, I discovered that in fact there was a bit of binding on the left side when the half shaft was perpendicular to the diff. The passenger side was good to go. So, I shortened the half shaft for the drivers side by 0.500".....problem gone. The machine work to the half shaft is very simple. After disassembling the half shaft, (be sure not to loose any of the ball spacers), replicate the existing male splined end of the shaft, a 1/2" shorter. The only issue I ran into was finding a lathe that has a big enough thoat to allow the U-joint passing through it so the shaft can be chucked up! Tom

I tend to agree with you on the Monster cable....been around for some time now and is a proven product. It wouldn't surprise me if the cable they used for comparison was cheapy zip cable (very small diameter, two conductor junk). In their comparison graph, their cabling starts rolling off at approximately 10K....do they think that is good performance??? Also, it's always funny to see the massive cabling and then they attach little tiny connectors....they must think people are just plain stupid! I believe it was Barnum (Barnum & Bailey) who once said....."A fool and his money, soon part!" Tom

The rear strut bar looks real nice......however, by adding a diagonal brace from one side at the top of the tower across to the opposite side bottom of the tower would provide you with triangulation and provide even less chassis flex. Tom

I'll second the SWEPCO 201 recommendation! Tom

I,ve played drums since I was in 5th grade (now 55) and the task was pretty simple! Now try doing four separate tasks, one for each of your right and left hands and feet....this should give you a little insight into a drummers capability!!! Tom

The clutch disc can be replaced easily.....the question remains however, are you up to the task?

God bless his soul and for thinking outside the box!!!! Tom P.S. A long time friend's father grew up with Wally, Parnelli, and the other early hot rod boys in SoCal. The man did alot for the car sport.

The clicking may also be coming from the pedal return spring where the spring hooks over the tab on the pedal....try a little grease, it may go away! Tom

From my prospective.....I'd say the safety engineering on these cars is obviously quite good! Considering the extent of the collision, John's injuries were limited to only a couple of broken bones! However, I do think the POD style capsules, used in drag boats, are really well engineered! Tom

Just a thought...if the DS was originally modified by someone, check to see if the U-joint trunions were welded in out of phase. This can cause vibrations.

Looks like your temper tantrum cost you a new front window!!!

Sorry to rain on your parade but, if you need to exhibit that sort of speed on a public road, don't..........take it to a sanctioned track! Two wrongs don't make a right!!! You just never know how friggin weird some people will get when intimidated while driving!

Certainly a legitimate idea! Not to rain on your parade but, most guys that have these sort of expensive tools, myself included, generally do not loan them out to people, especially if they don't know them or their mechanical knowledge and abilities. For example....how would you go about recouping the cost of repair or replacement of a damaged or misuse item? How would you insure return of said item? Just some food for thought! Tom

I got tired of trying to source out wheel spacers for my 17"s so I just turned my own out of 6061 and went with 3" Moroso lugs. Worked out beautifully without an issue! I located a 6" dia. x 18" long piece of 6061 round stock at a surplus store for $80.00. My labor and $80.00.....not a bad price for a set of wheel spacer. Tom

At first I though your post title was about Ricky Carmical sailing over triples!

I do the SoCal desert scene on my 2002 Honda CRF450R. It's been set-up for desert riding....IMS tank, Scott's damper, Flat radiator gaurds, SRC skid plate, hand gaurds, RG3 tuned suspension, PMB kickstand, and stuff like that! Fulfills all my accelloration desires plus more! It is likely I will be adding another bike to the stable this weekend.....2006 Husqvarna TE510 (DOT approved and street legal in Calif.) Tom

Man, I'd love to join in on the CF tail-light panel assembly purchase however, this would be my third attemp at trying to actually get one from a private party fabricator. On my last attemp, I waited over 12 months before I decided to ask for a refund because the fabricator just couldn't find the required time to lay them up and get them out the door. On all previous tries, there was never a question of quality just delivery! Hope you all get your tail-light panels! Sorry if I rained on the parade. Tom

Russ, I like the stance on your Z (top pic)!!! Wheels look great too! It always amazes me how much better a car looks when the tires/wheels are well positioned within the wheel well. Tom

IIRC, stitch welding is a common practice for adding a bit more rigidity to the Z chassis. Using rivets is just as applicable and certainly more time consuming. A plus up on the use of rivets is....no heat affected areas from the welding process. Tom

Some how I think your dream has been fostered by a constant inhalation of petrol fumes!!! Tom