2126

Very tempting invitation....will check my calender. Just got back from a saturday ride out at Spangler Hills (SoCal desert) with a number of my riding partners....great time of course! I'm riding a 2002 CRF450R set-up for desert riding. I'm located in ventura county. Tom

Mines been up and running since the completion of the rebuild in 2002. All the time and effort that went into the rebuild project was worth every penny and drop of sweat........it so much fun to drive, it should be considered illegal!!! Tom

Well, I quess now you'll have a chance to use your dial indicators more often! Nice score on the four jaw. Tom

I quess some people will do just about anything for attention! Tom

And, as time goes by the parts keep getting lighter!!! Tom

Mine is pretty simple....2126 (HLS3002126) is the serial number of my 1970 240Z! Tom

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, NISSAN dealership!!!!?

I had a similar issue at McDonalds....they just couldn't get me a fillet mignon!

One thing should be obvious....the non turbo tranny is likely less durable than the turbo tranny but, should bolt right up!

While you're at it, go ahead and install a LSD! You will get the benifit of not having to pull the diff again, you'll get better traction, and you will get a stronger 4 spider carrier as opposed to the stock 2 spider open diff. Check out Precision Gear....about the best deal for a new clutch type LSD. By the way, Jon is correct about using the 3.90 ratio with the close ratio 5 spd. I actually went from the 3.90 to a 4.10. At approximately 70mph I'm turning just about 3K rpm. Tom

For the relatively low cost of a set of new locks, I would think it would be well worth doing, if for nothing more than reliability! Tom

Just a correction on the cost of the Rebello 50mm SU's....that $850.00 a pair, not each! How do I know this, I purchased a pair. These babies are little jewelery. The profile on the needles are custom ground, as none are available for a 50mm unit. Tom

Sorry, but I have no pics of the Sparco pedals installed. You should take a look at what Sparco offers for pedals. Tom

Just a note to the guys having issues with sitting too high in aftermarket seats. Most race seats are built with a composite shell and are typically mounted with brackets attached to the sides of the seat. If installing this style of seat onto the stock seat cross members, you wind up sitting too high...especially when using sliders. What I recommend is to look for a race seat of the suspension design......basically a steel frame with suspension for the butt cushion. This design is typically an entry level race seat and are the least expensive. I choose the Sparco "Sprint" seats, as they are of the suspension design. They do not tilt either but are extremely comfortable. Payed approximately $200 for each. I mounted mine directly to the stock seat crossmembers, use a couple of spacers in the front to adjust seat angle, and for a 5' 11" tall guy I sit at what I think is the perfect height. And, the Sprint seat is narrow enough not to cause interference issues. Just some food for thought. Tom

I installed a set of Sparco pedals and it certainly was not what I'd call a quick and easy install. I prefer the shorter style gas pedal because of the way the Z mechanism pivots. I believe the longer gas pedal may hinder full throttle and does not provide the additional portion at the bottom left of the gas pedal to aid in heel-toe. Anyway, I positioned the pedal over the stock pedals, without the rubber on, and drilled through holes for attachment. Driving shoes do allow better use of these style racing pedals. I quess the exercise would have been a bit easier if access was better....oh well! Tom

Good question! My educated quess is.....its going to work the pump for sure, so Id have to say get the right pump if you want reliability. Tom

Regarding the fuel pump choice...if its for carbs, regulated pressure should be no more than 4 to 5 psi. If its for EFI it will require a pump capable of 30 something psi.

A couple of suggestion.......become familiar with the search function, purchase a service manual. Your questions on wheels/tires is likely the most asked question ever. The search function can provide soooooo much info. Tom

Of course I have no idea what you intend to do with the 240Z/LS2 but, with that amount of torque available under your right foot you should certainly look into chassis mods to stiffen it up and brake mods to wow her down. Also, later 1972 and newer 240, 260 & 280 Zs have thicker gauge sheet metal in the chassis than do the early 240Zs. When shopping for a Z, you always want to look for rust....the less the better! Spend some time searching through the archives. You will find and incredible amount of useful information. Tom

There is another avenue, especially if you are not inclined to do the fab work yourself....Beta Motorsport (John Coffey's business). He can supply you with complete strut assemblies. You might at first think his cost is high until you realize all that is involved. John is an upstanding, well known, and very talented guy. Tom

Yorgee, All the answers to your questions can be research in the archive files however, its X-mas time and I feel like giving! Basically, if you intend to lower your Z approximately 2", you will want to section the strut housings. Why? If you don't you will end up with very little bump travel (compression) and alot of droop travel. It is recommended to section 1 1/2" from the strut housing, which then requires the use of shorter dampers. Of course, it all comes together with the coilover install when you lower the ride height. What you will end up with is a better balance of travel in bump and droop travel, albeit both will be less than a stock setup but you'll have more useable bump travel. Yes you will need some method of adjusting the camber as you will gain a bunch of negative camber when you lower the Z that much. How do I know this....been there done that!!! Anyway, how that you have a taste of what is involved, spend some time and search the archive on this subject to gain even more knowledge on this conversion. Oh, one other tid bit for you....if you intend to run wheels at the rear that are wider than 7" you may have to use a rear spring with an 8" free-length as opposed to the standard 10" free-length spring. And Ground Control can provide you with the p/n for the shorter dampers.....and don't forget to use a 1" bumpsteer spacer. Happy hunting! Tom

I'm 55 years young and have had similar back issues, as you guys have mentioned. First avoid any surgery at all costs, it a last resort and the odds are questionable as to the outcome. From my experiences and many hours of research and investigation on the old back.....the bottom line is pretty simple! You gotta get fit, eat a good diet, and then stay in shape!!! Too many couch potatoes these days! Its a cold reality when you realize your back is f'd up and life as you knew it has now been changed because of it. I always tell folks..."There are two health plans you can subscribe to in life, the pay now or the pay later plan". The genereal populous tends to subscribe to the pay later plan. Just look at all the commercials on TV that play on your emotions and then tell you to buy their pill or what ever to fix your problem....because it certainly wasn't your fault it's f'd up. Right!!!! Tom

Just to elaborate on annealling copper......heat to a dull or cherry red and then quench in cool water. The results will be better than letting it air cool and you can pick the part up right away! Tom

Could help if you provide a location!

Your first statement is certainly true. Your second statement about fluid flow is not complete enough to be applicable or true. Where you snoozing during that lecture? Tom