stony

so it should come straight off ....or do i have to flex it all the way in one direction and hit it from an angle?

do a search on my posts. depends on what you want to do with it. I have a stock rb26dett with 680cc injectors and 15psi booste and i cant get it out of the hole (drag racing) with breaking something in the rear end. the 2 options im considering is grafting a gtr rear suspension or a for 8.8 or 9 inch rear end. plain and simple you will not be able to mod the stock IRS to handle good traction hi HP launches at the track. if you plan on only street use an r-200 with cv upgrade will work. i went as far as maching my rear struts to accept bigger bearing for the 300z z31 stub shafts, custom chomoly axles and a nismo r-200 LSD. the diff and axles are good now i just broke a stub shaft;< again anything other then drag racing this setup would be greawt ;> good luck. BTW if you have the car stripped id go with a 9 inch ;>

yes it does thanks

they are the z31 turbo ones in the picture you posted... and if i understand correctly these just basically get hammered off? no clips to remove? fro some reason i remember these just kinda snapping back together.

Ok i did this once with a friend who has done it 1000 times about a year ago. but for some reason cant remember how it comes apart and i dont want to break anything. heres the deal.... i knowticed as the axles were being removed that they were the wrong length. after further inspection i found that the guys that rebuilt them did it wrong. long story short i have to swap the inner cv and diff input shaft around to get the shafts on the sides they need to be on. i remember there is a big really easy to removed retaining clip on the outboard side but i cant see anything on the inboard side. whats the trick do they just get hammered off or is there a retained on that side to. so there is no confusion these axles are from a 88 z31 300zx. this is the only thing holding me up from putting the car back on the road. they will fit and work fine its just the idea of one being fully compressed and the other fully extended that is kinda disturbing ;>

nobody interested?????

If its a rear sump it will work. the motor sits kinda hi with the zr mounts but not hi enough... and you dont want to go any higher or you will clearance problems.

oh yea smaller diameter tires on the last run. that is the reason for slower speed. also probably added some HP too.

depending on the dyno... should be able to email them. here are mine the first one is a comparison of the first run on the dyno and when it was done at 9PSI the second one is the stock booste vs 15 PSI they were both tuned at a max 11.8 AF ratio i was having some problems picking up a timing reading so we couldnt fine tune it looks like next time its on the dyno will be with and auto solid rear setup ;>

wow dude you have alot of tuning to do;> I made 352 at the wheels at stock booste. hows it running? does it feel good? was that just a power check or tuning time on the dyno? You should be getting alot more out of it at that PSI. got any scans of the runs? I am sick of driveing to the track and having to trailer it home ;< next time at teh track will be pulling the fronts off the ground

Ok guys i pretty much have the rearend sold. i have decided to go with an automatic also. so some day i will be setup with a powerglide and a 8.8 ford rearend with gig axles and a spool ;> anyways the 5 speed will pay for some of the costs for this swap. the HKS clutch is brand new and never made a run down the track. it has maybe 200 miles on it and still looks brand new. it retails for 1600 but i will sell it for what i got it for 1100. add another 800 for the tranny for a grand total of 1900 plus shipping and its yours.....BTW the clutch is complete with flywheel.

uuuummmmmm ditto i wouldnt even consider a subie for a rb swap. you would more then likely have to cut out the firewall bigtime.

RB26DETT!!!!!!!!!!

the pan needs to be a rear sump pan. the rb30s in teh skylines will be the same as the ones in japan.... front sump. the oil pan you need is from a 200zr 300z... it had a rb20 with a rear sump. this pan is not bolt on though it needs to be modded to clear the girdle and you will need a custom oil pickup. the other option is brad in this forum has fabbed up a custom aluminum oil pan that from what i hear works great

yea thats cool.... the only reason i was thinking that was because mine did the same thing... was running great then out of no where it started running like crap. i checked everything and the injectors where my only options ;< having them flow checked cured the problem as they have to take the screens out to do it. mine flowed fine so the shop was like you have something else wrong wy dont you bring it by and let us "FIX" it. I said well now that i know the injectors are flowing fine ill install them and see how it runs. and walla ran like a champ. anyways good luck on the dyno.

hey brad another way you can check to see if its the injector or flow thru the injector is take a long screwdriver and listen to each injector. just place the screwdriver on the metal part of the injector and put it up to your ear. you should hear the clicking and all the injectors should sound the same. if they do not sound the same or one or 2 are not making any sound you have a bad injector. AIf they are all clicking the same you prabably got something thru the pump and clogged an injector.

ECU ECU ECU ECU (stony is chanting) i had this same condition happen to me when i was in japan except it was an L20 turbo in a skyline.... kinda intermittent i had no clue... i replaced the ECU and it was fixed ;>

i used sds's stuff to ensure i had all good sensors to start tuning.... the stock o2 sensors were trash so i played it safe and replaced all new sensors with what SDS guys recomended

OUCH!!!!! I would guess that motor is history and in need of a complete rebuild. it also sound like the turbo blades are rubbing against something as its spooling down. but at any rate that motor sound like crap. sorry... was that a motor bought from an importer or something that just broke?

nothing on sds. you use all there sensors. other systems you can use the stock stuff but not real familiar with other systems

MUNKY did it for me a guy from alaskamotorsports.com

well i have pretty much decided to go with a solid rear...probably a nine inch. im going to sell the entire rear end (maybe allready sold) to help fund the swap. I could try another one but with the clutch that is in it now it would eventually break again anyways. i do plan on upgrade motor stuff when i get a rearend that dosnt break under current conditions. anyone interested in an nismo r-200 with 4.88 gears? I am in the same boat as the previous owner. he bought it brand new for his rotary 510 adn couldnt get down the track without breaking a axle ( low 10 sec 510) so he sold it to me. i installed it ....drove it to the track...broke the stub on the first pass and towed it home. has no play and feels great. 600.00 plus shipping...about 150 maybe less

anything that connected to the engine was trashed. the only part of the harness i kept was the stuff from the alternator

i was punishing myself and the name was brokass260 ;> some guy on another web sight claimed my car and websight was his... no biggie just kinda torqued me off ;>