stony

i actually read something somewhere that if done right it will flow more when you pipe cut it and weld it back..... reason being even with the best mandrel bender the pipe will stil shrink a bit inthe bend. with the cut and weld method it dosnt. again it has to be done right... maybe i heard wrong. i dont know but it does look cool ;>

1100.00 US from a friend in japan ;> http://www.optauto.com/webstore/product_information.asp?number=HKS-2604-SF001&variation=&aitem=7&mitem=7&back=yes&dept=1669

All right here we go i stopped being a cheap F^*&$R and bought some stuff.... HKS GD MAX twin plate clutch to cure my clutch issues and a 4.88 Nismo r-200 LSD to cure my gearing problem..... this should get me all the way thru 4th with the 275 50 15 BFG DR this will hopefully complete my drivetrain and get me into the tens. If everything holds motor stuff will be next year ;>

they are called works overfenders

ok now this is getting stupid.... dont take offense but the fact you asked such a question tells me your not very knowledgable on the swap. both are unibody ... you cant swap the body... if you pay the 80000 US to get a skyline into the us why would you kill it to put it in a Z? get an old z and buy a half cut and do the swap... if you search thru this board you can find all teh info you need. again im not slamming you but your question is out there

my point exactly i say if you wanna do the swap do it but make sure its in a 74 or earlier Z car :>

bob, When i was in california if the car only needed a tailpipe test becasue of its age. they didnt care what motor you had in it. im pretty sure that if you had a pre emmisions car that you could have anything in there and be legal. now if it is an emissions car and you put a later model motor in it will be required to meet all the rules for whatever year was applicable for that motor. In a way i think you are right though. but if its not required to even open the hood and look how you gonna get caught ;>

i was told by the referee in alaska that pre 74 is only a tailpipe inspection (Emmisions) and they dont even open the hood. is it legal not sure but it will pass the inspection and will get licensed.

its a one man job if you have a floor jack... get as much of the suspension out of teh way as possible.

i have a couple of the runs before that one still waiting on a friend... that hi pitched squeel in teh backfround was a kid not my car ;>

curse senson what the **** didnt know one existed?

ummm 74 and before is a tailpipe inspection only.... so as long as it passes emmisions its good.... my car could be 50 state legal if i tuned it clean. i may be wrong????

ok here are some video of me at the track http://teamkorn.tv/akms/stony1.wmv this one is the one were the clutch let go again. i was able to make another run at 9 psi without slipping more on the way ... i will edit this post with the links

i was just looking on there ???

4.11 or higher pinion and ring gear. anyone have some layin around or know any shops that can get them?

well this is one of those good news bad news things. good news is the axles held up to 4500rpm launch where the tires grab and i get a good launch. Bad news is the clutch will not hold this so i definetly need a good clutch. here is a link to the video of the clutch letting go http://teamkorn.tv/akms/stony1.wmv oh yea then my master cylinder took a crap on me and i had to drive home with no clutch ;< only stalled it at 2 lights ;> oh yea best run was an 11.7;< oh well. now i have to change the clutch master and slave, put a new stronger gtr race clutch $$$$ and im gonna get a gear set before i go out again. once that is done 10s should be cake ... i know i said that before but i thought this clutch was gonna hold.

Well loks like its gonna be a great day to go racing here in alaska. low 60s lots of sun. got the drag radials all ready to go. no babying today im gonna hammer it with race gas mixed 50 50 with 92 oct and go for that elusive 10 sec slip ;> hope nuttin breaks.

the funniest thing happened the other day. this older guy came up to me and asked me "thats a 260 right?" i was like wow he either guessed really good or he knows his datsuns. turns out he is one of the presidents of the midnight sun rod club up here in alaska. he tells me about the club and invites me to there thursday night cruise. i was like wow. then right after that this street bum comes up to me from behind my car and spots the braided line come from the cell and goes "WOW dude is that NAWS???? I bet that thing flies, ever raced it?, how fast does it go? how much you got in, it? oh yea and do you have a buck? all before i answered the first question ;>

sorry the z32 clutch disc will not fit ... maybe the non turbo but the turbo one is too big and the rb26 has a 9 bolt pressure plate.

they are heavier then my draglites. they are alot smaller then my draglites and have amuch smaller tire. if they were equal size they would weigh a ton. forged alum is stonger then the generic steel they use in wheels. the only reason im using the steelies is i dont feel like forking out the dough just for a set of wheels i can use at the track. I would rather buy a set of gears that would make the bigger diameter tires work better. right now when i run the draglites its like running a really low gear and its hard to get it off the line without slipping the clutch or bogging. the smaller tires are the ones i ran 11.1 @ 127 MPH with. and that was with a 60 foot time of 2.1. im gonna really hammer it off the line this time and see what happens ;>

i have a set of those white steel wheels for the track and you might want to check but with the calipers up front they may not clear and you will need spacers. If you are coverting the stock setup to 5 lug then you might be ok ... but if you upgrade to bigger calipers and rotors im sure they wont fit. mine dont with the z32 caliper on the front. i would need like a 1 inch spacer to clear the caliper.

i hear the porsche one all the time. Once one guy told his friends he got stomped by a porsche after getting his A## handed to him at a stop light ;>

wow no thanks sorry didnt realize that disc was so expensive. Now that i have my damn foot off the clutch pedal my 70 buck rebuild should work for this sseason.

how much for the clutch disc?

I need a set along with the brace that goes over the top of the bushing. Mine is worn out and with new urethan bushings im getting alot of play on the left side. anyone know where i can get a set of stock replacements of even aftermarket upgrade stuff?