stony

the factory original u joints seem to be the strongest of any aftermarket. i went thru 3 different sets all supposed to be very strong but broke easier then the stock originals.

you need to check for leaks and also a bad wastegate actuator or sticky valve. it should booste some. if 1st is really fast you may not hit full booste because of tire spin. if you dont have the motor loaded its harder for the turbo to build booste.

corZette is your Z on the road over there in okinawa yet? just curious how hard was it to get it thru JCI???

on the single v8 setup the out on the turbo side is actually where the other side crossover pipe bolts up then both side exhaust feed into the turbo and out the back of the turbo as one pipe, on a twin setup with this manifold you could use this as teh place to bolt on the wastegate. pull thru systems have been around for awhile

i didnt break any stubs just half shafts. they will not hold up to anything above 350rwhp at teh drag strip. i had a local machine shop machine my strut to accept different bearings so i could use z31 300zx stub shafts... they are bigger and stronger... then i had teh driveshaftshop.com in newyork build a set of custom chromoly axles to fit my application. it all cost right around 1000US along with this i converted to 300zx disc brakes at all 4 corners.

im having the same problem except all i did was change a clutch disc. and the master cylinder itself. it feels like there is air in the system but i have bleed with just about every method i know. single man method with a rod on the pedal. then with a vaccuum gun, then i tried just letting it trickle thru the system. then the old trusty 2 man method.. non of which made it any better. I too think my slave cylinder took a crap. even though it only has 1000 or less miles on it. oh well we will see. hope you figure yours out

i guess everyone was answering him at the same time ;>

If its in the car you can jack it up and turn the wheels.... if they both turn in the same direction its a LSD.. but may be a welded diff. if they turn in teh opposite direction its a open diff. the car in question did not come with an LSD.... the first gen 300zx turbo did.

ahhhhaaaaa thats a good idea.

he is even using my web page as his own. ;<

actually had some time to actually read the posts .. i thought he had a rb26 z but actually he was pretending to own my Z!!!!!! i went thru a couple of his posts and slammed him so maybe he will get lost. i just hope he decides to reply that is actually his car ;> anyone want to log in to teh forum and slamm him with me???

umm mthat is funny

i bet you for every rb swap on this page there is probebly 2 other ones that arnt

i have never seen anyone break an r200 LSD. now axles driveshafts and stub shafts are a different story.

ok heres the situations. i burned my clutch up as most know allready ;> i replaced the clutch and drove fine for a couple days then i knowticed the master cylinder was leaking inside the car. and the next day i lost my clutch i figured the master took a crap. so i replaced it. bled it and still have a real mussy pedal and clutch wont disengage enough to put it in gear???? I'm getting a nice clear steam of new fluid from the slave cylinder but still no clutch and mussy pedal???? air bubble???? bad slave??? thge slave was new 2 years ago and has less them 1000 miles on it. Is there a special method or trick to bleeding the clutch system? this crap is frustrating. i now have the 4.88 diff in and wow i must say its a huge difference. if i ever get this day clutch issue worked out it will be nice ;>

i have the rear overfenders for sale if anyone is interested. 150 plus shipping

i have over 20 K in mine and all the mods i have done so far except for the paint have been someway or another in support of the drivetrain. still have another 5 K to go atleast.

ok a buddy of mine blew an engine on my friends dyno a couple of weeks ago. once the engine was torn down one of the pistons look like it had a hole burned threw the side of the piston. the ring lands were broke pretty bad and the top edge of the piston above the hole looked like it was sandblasted. here's my question. on the dyno we never heard any audible knock. A/F ratio was 12 and below booste was 18 psi. timeing was set basically like mine was and pulled about the same amount of time as booste rose for a total timing of about 20-22. it put down 275 the first run and as we leaned it out towards A/F of 12 about the 5th run the motor popped and set oil out every hole it could. was this motor hurt allready or is there a possibility it was hurt on the dyno. what are the chances of the engine leaning out... knocking and creating enough heat to do that without hearing something weird? or seeing something in the af ratio to indicate something was wrong?i think the motor was hurt before and possibly lean in that one cylinder maybe a bad injector???/ inputs????

video?

im not worried about pull the wheels off. i just want a 1.6 or 1.7 60 foot what is frustrating is running an 11.1 at 127 MPH with a 2.0 60 foot. but like i said the new clutch and 4.8 gearing should get it off the line lots better ;>

skyline r33 gtst 5 speed

Yea Yea what he said

it is race/daily driver car but the tranny that is in it is geared for a car that had 4.65 or something close to that originally. i would be going 120MPH thru the traps and only in the top end of third gear with the current 3.9

thats funny... hey scottie what's your latest best time? dont think your site has been updated.... i bought a HKS twin plate clutch and a 4.88 nismo LSD to assist my 60 foot times ;> should be at the track to test out the setup july 5th shootin for a 10.7

well i guess im in there... looks like at 8000 rpm i will be at 127 MPH (CALCULATED) which is my best MPH to date. i may have to go to 5th if not that will be perfect and should get me in the 10s ;> If i dont succeed this time im done for a while. on a side note it is so frustrating seeing the big v-8 guys running low 11s and pulling the wheels off the ground ;>