stony

looks like civic headlites ;>

wow looks good. what rearend are you running james? hope my hooptie holds up to clutch launches. after i get mine in the 10s on stock turbos ... going for the nines on some bigger twins

is that a civic?

i basically welded the top of the s30 struts to the bottem of the z31 struts. all in all what the conversion did was allowed me to run custom chromoly z31 turbo z axles without and adapter and converted to bigger disc brakes all at all 4 corners. so i should be able to go faster and stop quicker

7.31 @ 102mph

yes sir they are different get the parts i said above and it will work.

to swap to an r-200 you will need the diff the mustache bar and the axles that are on the r-200 now. They will bolt up to the stub shafts currently installed in your car. to make it real easy to remove and install i would removed the rear control arm mount too. this way the diff will go striaght up and down

Ok you guys asked for it here it is. This is how I basically swap my suspension stuff for a z31 front and rear suspension and axles. First a friend of mine got a hold of a really low mileage wrecked 1988 turbo z31. He sold me every bit of suspension stuff I wanted for 200 bucks. I started thinking about the 500rwhp z31 I have seen still running the stock axles without any problems and decided this was the cheapest way to go. The front…… To get the bigger brakes of the z31 on my s30 I first made a few measurements…. Then I reluctantly cut the z 31 struts and the s30 struts so when put together they measured the same length as the original s30. I guess if you were going to use custom shocks any length would do. So now I have the top have of my s30 coilover and the bottom have of the z31 disc brake setup. I carefully ensured the 2 pieces were together straight and welded the together. The first obstacle was the steering knuckle. The s30 didn’t fit on the bottom of the z31 strut. So I reinstalled the z31 knuckle and pressed hoping I could make it work. The second obstacle. The AZC control arm ball joint was smaller then the z31. When I tried to bolt it in the bolt shanked out on the shaft of the ball joint. I played around with it for a while and looked for a ball joint that I could use. Then just when I was going to scrap everything and go with a set of something else my friend suggested I use a couple washers to pull the ball joint up a little more. IT WORKED. The taper is the same and the washer allowed the nut to pull the ball joint up into the socket to specified torque level with no binding. So that problem was solved. Now obstacle number 3. The steering knuckles are bent different. The s30 basically comes straight out and the z31 bends out towards the rotor. This meant the s 30 rack was going to be too short. I researched using a different rack but came up with having to mod just about anything I found. I decided to mod the s30 rack. I cut the output rods where there are no threads under the boot and added the length with chomoly tubing. It took me two times to get the right length .The first time I didn’t take into account the angle of the knuckle was going to require additional length. I measured it as if the knuckle was horizontal with the ground. At any rate once the length was right my welder used a piece of chromoly tubing that fit tight over the shafts and welded them in place. Ok now the brakes. On the front the z31 calipers were scraped for a set of z32 4 puck units and a set of metal pads. I had to retain the z31 rotors because the z32 rotors offset was wrong and didn’t fit ;<. I bent a 6 inch long piece of hard line so it lined up with the clip on in the strut, I just so happened to have a set a braided lines from my rx-7 days that fit perfect. I tried a set of z32 braided lines but the front lines were too long. And rears were too short. Another problem I had was the stock caster of the z31 strut was different then the s30 and when I put the wheels on you could see the wheel was not centered in the wheelwell. I took it to the alignment shop and tuned as much out as we could with the TC rod (AZC control arms). The measurement is 4.5 degrees now so you experts out there tell me is that good or should I go some more. That is the front in a nut shell now the back, Before I decided to start this I knew I was going to need a custom set of axles. I also had an r-200 swap already done so apply that to this before you start. I also had the AZC rear control arms, which greatly increased this working due to their adjustability. I took my strut housings to the machinist and told him I wanted to put the z31 stubs in the s30 strut housing. He said he would take a look and let me know. What I wanted to do was find a bearing that would fit the housing and the stub, but since one was metric and one was standard couldn’t do that. What we did was machine the housing to accept bigger bearings that would fit on the z31 stubs. Once this was done I installed the struts and measured from the diff seal to the flange on the strut. Then sent my z31 axles and measurements to the driveshaft shop in new York and they made me a set of chromoly axles specifically for drag racing and guarantied the shafts for 600hp. I’m sure the cvs will break before the axles do; > The calipers were done by the same machinist that did the housing here in Alaska , he basically took a piece of thick metal and welded it to the caliper base and picked up the holes to mount them on the strut. I can’t explain this process as I didn’t do it but it worked. I again made a 6 inch hard line to the bracket on the strut and used the rx7 rear lines with banjo fittings and it all worked. Does it work???? So far yes … im very happy with how the brakes work and the axles are very smooth. I will be on the dyno for some test runs and at the track within the month to see how they hold up. Wish me luck. more pics at 240z.org in my gallery (stony)

still waiting a a friend to come thru with a set of cheap draglites we will see. track day is mid may some time opening day is may 11th but the wife isnt gonna go for that on mothers day ;> check out teh scedule here. http://www.alaskaracewaypark.com

nope it was screen in the injector not allowing theh fluid to flow thru the injector. this is why when the screen s were pulled and the injectors flow checked everything was fine. after the new screens where installed the car ran great;> what i think happened was the car sat for 6 months or so and the fuel in the injectors evaporated leaving behind a film that harded and wala restriction

the diff in question came out of an 88 turbo 300z and is a clutch type lsd. not an r230.

are they the same size if its an r200 it will be bigger

that is correct i forgot about that

something i started thinking about once i did this was pretty much any rear IRS setup that is relatively the same as the z could be done the same way i did mine. for example. a Gtr rear end also has 2 bearing in the hub. if the z strut could be machined to except these bearings then wala mount the diff make custom length axles and you have a rearend good for 600+ HP not to mention a great set of brakes ;>

you are going to have to drop the front of the diff. to do this remove the 4 14mm bolts holding the front member in place, you may also have to remove the driveshaft to do this. once the front member bolts are removed you should be able to move the diff down and fwd off the mustache bar. as ffor is it supposed to be that way im not sure but it dosnt look right.

yea what he said ;>

the axles are lighter. the strut housing are a little lighter due to machineing for bigger bearings but the bigger bearings voided that. the frame and sheetmetal work for the cell probably weighs a tad more then the spare tire wellsheet metal i cut out. all in all couldnt really tell you if i added or subracted weight but either way it wasnt much. To tell you the truth the how to page is kinda up in the air.... im sure there are much cheaper ways to get these axles in... and the only reason i went this route was becasue i got a hold of an entire z31 rear suspension for 200 bucks. i will sit down later and write up what everything cost me in parts and labor. It was more expensive then a cv adapter upgrade. not much cheaper then a corvette swap and about half the price of parts alone for a nine inch swap (4 link pro type setup) If i had come across the nine inch setup the way i did the z31 setup i would have done that but im kinda on a budget....that is shot to hell as it is ;>

ok i hit the alignment shop to day and was able to tune the caster back to normal levels with the TC rod and toe measurements are all within specs As for the brakes they are awesome. for those of you that have stock brakes still youll know what im talking about. before i took a good stomp to lock all 4 and a steady amount of pressure to stop quickly. I would also feel alittle fad slowing from 120+ for the turnoff at the track. Now with very slight toe pressure the car wants to stop on a dime. Im sure its not as good as some of the wilwood or other big brake kits but it works fine for me. I drove a friends 350z the other day with the brembo brake option and my car no shit felt as good if not better in the stopping area then it. so all in all im very happy with the results.

Its fixed . i took the injectors to be flow checked they all flowed 67ml they gave me new orings and screens.. I installed them and now it runs great. the only thing i can think is the fuel dried up in the injector over the winter and gummed up the screens impeding the flow of fuel. so problem solved now to organize teh rats nest of wires under the dash

Ok need some opinions. car idles kinda rough and sounds like its missing a cylinder or tune under acceleration. pulled checked all the wires and made sure i was getting spark...trust me im getting spark i think i have a stutter now i pulled all the plugs a had a look ... 2 of the 6 have white tips and the others look fine. these are brand new hks racing plugs so they shouldnt be the problem. Initial guess is the injectors are clogged on those 2 cylinders causing them to go lean under load. any other suggestions before i pull them and get them checked?

btw last time i got 392rwhp on burnt up plugs 92 oct pump gas

well its done... well atleast back to where i had it before minus broken halfshafts ;> all thats left is cleaning up wiring and installing carpet so that may never get done ;> anyways if all works out ill have it on the dyno again saturday now that i have my timeing indication issue worked out. Ill be feeding it race gas and a little more timing see if i can get 420rwhp on the stock turbos ;> what kind of increase should i see just by using race gas?

i just added a -4 nipple to the top of the cell fwd of the -6 the ran a line from that over the top of the cell and down out teh back of the car. when its done it will be all clamped down. I was thinking about adding a -4 bulkhead fitting to the rear valence and screw it into that but i thought that would be kinda funky looking. maybe behind teh bumper wouldnt be so bad

sorry bout that i was searching thru some stuff ... didnt think to check the date ;> fuel cell is a gas tank... do a search in http://www.summitracing.com or jegs.com for fuel cell and they have pictures

well here it is i still have to finish a couple things but all in all its ready for the track ;> and a shot of the cell sheet metal work .. almost done ;>