stony

Owen, Wow i never thought of that. i hasve a cap and an -8 an fitting sticking out in plain sight i hope knowone messes with it ;<

Ok i have all the fittings installed. a -8 supply, -6 return in the top of the cell, and a -4 vent next to the return on top. How does the vent need to be setup? I obviously dont want it venting into the car so i was going to run a fitting and some line under the car and coil it up at the same level as the top of the cell. Or is there a check valve i can install or something like that, maybe a catch tank? If i install a tank it would need to be able to vertnt

im running 15x10 with 5.5 inch backspacing on the rear with AZC coilovers and 275 50 15 bfg drag radials and they come right to the lip

darius, You have a wicked ride. i love the wheels you have now. What type of traction are you going for road race or drag race. if you want drag race traction youll need a taller side wall. teh thin side wall tire are great for handling but will scream like little girls from a stop. juast my 2 cents. either way it will look badass ;>

ok the only thing holding me up is a cap and vent setup for the cell. then off to teh dyno to see if i fixed my tach signal. During the rebuild i found that the way the battery cable was routed under the car it was rubbing on the driveshaft flange and had worn about halfway thru!!!!!! Im thinking that the arch from that was causing interferance with the dyno signal. This would explain why it would breakup around 4000rpm. If that is not clear im talking about the tach signal reading on teh dyno.... everything else on the car was fine ran all the way to redline with no problmes we just could not get any good runs with timing. so we had to tune with AF only. If we get timing back we will be able to fine tune somemore. bled the brakes today also... besides a couple of leaks and the standard "oh shoot honey there is no fluid in there is that bad???" I guess i should watch the resivour <SP myself next time;> well its late and im ramblin. sub 11 sec club here i come.

they both will hook decent but the less side wall you have the less bite you will have. you will smoke the 17s easier then the 15s in teh smae situations. (I think)

hey is there a limit to the number of pics you can upload????

this shit is getting old any ideas? is it hapening to anyone else???

dude you proably allready know this but going to a 19 inch wheel is not going to help you all that much in the traction department. It will be great for handling but for drag racing you need a smaller wheel with taller tires. The less tirewall flex you have the less traction you will have. I went from running low 11s and spinning thru 2nd gear at the track. to getting traction and breaking axles anyways the flares look awesome keep us posted

it does and all peices are in use but its still loose. The only thing i can think of is maybe its like that to account for expansion once its full of fuel?

it is done all the time in japan. would be easier then a v-8 swap if you had the parts

I have a question. i just installed a summit cell with the recommended brackets but teh cell is very loose. It has side to side and a little upa and down play. Is this normal? or did i do something wrong?

that car is an all out race car with aftermarket everything in the drivtrain. pushing over 1200HP. i have no place to post it but is available at http://www.exvitermini.com/movies/896runs.zip

10k is the complete drivetrain.... you cant tell me stock tranny behind an ls1 can handle 500+rwhp without being modded can it?

anyone have a set of 2.5 inch dia springs they wnat to get rid of. I currently have 400 lb on teh rear and 500 on teh front they were recommended by AZC

he did say stock i think. can you get 500 hp to the wheels from a stock ls with changing heads?

prepped for final install. tomorro brakes will be bled

10K should get you 500+ rwhp out of a rb26 this includes the motor tranny mods to do the swap a good intercooler, injectors and upgrade turbos. after that youll need alot more chassis work just like a hi power v-8 would. I personally like the sound of the rb26 at full booste and wide open external wastegate.

thats fine pete i should have posted there in the first place ;> You still need a mod for the rb forum?

sorry bout that, you need everything i did in my swap and its bolt in. Not sure about the tranny mount but i think its bollt in also if you use teh r33 5 speed and front half of the driveshaft ... again im not sure just going off of what ive heard. I would plan on making all of that stuff and be happy if it dosnt need to be made

motor mount and the engine. then the rest will be custom work for the intercooler.

ok then the rear is done all 4 corners are tightened and cotter keyed. Need to drop the rearend again to reseal the diff cover. after thats done time to bleed the brakes and finish the cage. finished up the cell installation today all i have to do now is the plumbing. im just going to add a -4 nipple to the top as a vent. I ran a -6 line to the vent on top for the return. going to cap one of the -8 outlets and reserve that for future fuel requirments ;> last but not least the sheet metal has to be completed on the top of the cell area. then time to install the electronics and go for a ride to the alignment shop. Hope to have this done by may 11 for the first event of the year at the track ;>