Synlubes

Just a word of caution on these diff covers. I`ve had one of these in hand and they are a SOFT casting (for lack of a better term). Don’t torque the drain plugs OR the mounting bolts to tight!

My bad! I wasn`t thinking, all the turbo heads were square exhaust ports. At least the US models.

http://24.254.252.164:9565/ZCar.htm Some of Mike`s vids right under my pics.

Both are good numbers and both are from 12/80 and up. One is for a square exhaust port and the other for round port. Don`t know which is which though.

After many years of working in a cold unheated garage and out on the driveway in winter, I broke down and bought a heater. A 55,000 btu kerosene forced air Reddy Heater. The temp here today was 40 degrees outside and 54 in my garage. My garage is 14’ x 24’ with a 12 foot ceiling, after only 15 minutes the temp in the garage was 70 degrees. I have a vented hatch to my overhead for the garage so fumes are not an issue for me. There really wasn’t a problem with fumes while the heater ran, just when starting and shut down. The heater is much more than I need for inside, but will also suit me well when working on the drive in the cold. Lowes has them now for $99.00 down from $199.00 (closeout). Some of the best money I’ve spent in a while!

Buy this tool! http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4163&cat=500&ppuser=8468 You dont even need the fittings just some tubing.

I wanta drive it! Now I`m going to have to come over and check out your cart.....I mean Z.

You can still get the stock turbo manifold from Nissan.

Sweet! You have made very good progress, congrats! I`ll have to get over for a ride.

I will be in the area Feb.3-4 to pickup some parts (eng/trans) for my Nissan truck. I am looking for recommendations on decent/reasonable lodging in the area close to I-95 exit 284 (+ or - 15 minutes drive time). Any help would be appreciated.

Emulsion Tube – Its task is to emulsify the previously metered air issuing from the bleed jet with the fuel coming from the main jet. Its influence is more marked at small and average throttle opening angles and during accelerations. Probably doesn’t need to be said but, make sure the carbs are sync with all the throttle linkage loose. Maybe look at using a smaller air corrector jet Check the float level settings??? Fuel volume??? not pressure Maybe some trash in the bowl???

Your setup seems to be "in the norm" for the carb/engine combo. The F11 e-tubes will give you better response in the mid - mid high range and the F-16 have worked well for me in the higher range. My setup (similar to yours, but with 32mm chokes) works best with the F-11 e-tubes. Better response getting into the revs. The 36mm chokes would be recommended for a "very healthy" engine setup operating at the high rpm (4 - 7+) range. I run 32mm chokes, but think 34mm would be the best setup for a well built Z engine. I run. . . Chokes 32mm (want 34mm) Main 135 Air 170 Idle Jet don’t remember Pump 55 E-Tubes F 11 Idle mixture about 2 turns I run the same basic engine specs, but with a N42 cly head. I have found the 45`s need to be "detuned" abit UNLESS you have a big bore, big cam all out racer turning high revs. I have found one of the best books to be, Weber - Guide to Parts and Tuning. Pierce Manifolds sells them.

I have some extras. Send me a e-mail (not pm) if you can`t locate some in your area.

If the equipment is mechanically sound, any synthetic is better than petroleum. You can find some information about Amsoil products on my website.

Never had any problems!

Here is my cable pull still in process along with a small write up. http://24.254.252.164:9565/ZCar.htm

The hatch release is on the top of the rear hatch. The little button in the middle, unless someone has removed it. http://24.254.252.164:9565/ZPics/MiscPics/RearHigh.JPG

In my city, noise complaints are anytime day or night. Check with your local city offices to find out what applies in your area.

Turning the pro valve to the left (or in) should be reducing pressure to the rears. Check all lines and fitting to make sure all are correctly seated and tight. Always start your brake bleeding at the master cly. Then the caliper farthest from the master cly, etc. In your case, Master - rt frt - left frt / rt rear - left rear I usally flush a quart of fluid thru for each bleed. If this doesn`t work, possible bad master cly???

All though it sucks big time, at least the Z wasnt inside. Hope it turns up in one piece with all your extras. The trailer could be anywhere folks so keep your eyes open.

Wheres the battery going to be mounted? Think safety first. Someone outside the car might need to get to it quickly.

John do you have any pics you can post up?

Let me know what you need. If you want, call me tonite for some details. I will be out all day, parent’s 50th wedding anniversary party is today.

L engine Setup

Attention Titan owners Over all they are turning out to be very nice vehicles. There have been some rear differential failures so make sure you keep up on the lubricant maintenance. Use the recommended TYPE & weight (not necessarily the brand) of fluid and change it often. Definitely a good place for a synthetic lubricant. This info is curtsey of my local Nissan dealer which I work at. Ck some Titan forums