Synlubes

Look at 240hoke pic showing the “clevis†bracket he tacked on. Then look at the flat bracket that is used on buZy setup connecting to the “t/c rodâ€. Take a piece of flat stock so that it lies on top of the control arm and hangs over the top of the clevis bracket that is tacked on. Weld it to the control arm and the top (only) of the clevis bracket. This would keep the control arm and the rod in place with out allowing the “pivot†buZy referenced. Even when you tighten a clevis bracket, the “ball†in the rod end will still move.

What about just welding some flat stock (1/8" or better) across the top of the control arm and extending over the u bracket for the rod end. You would need to redrill the two wholes for the ball joint mounting. I like this idea.

Amsoil 75w-90 gear lubricant. The limited slip additive is also available. Depends on how you use the vehicle (racing, autoX or street use) as to how long the fluid will last you. Also remember, if you put clean oil in a dirty environment it`s going to get contaminated from all the nastiness left over from the previous lube. My recommendation (regardless of what synlube you go with) is to drain and refill with some quality petroleum product and run it for a 100 miles or so (to clean things) then drain and refill with synthetics.

Links don`t work for me even copy & paste ???

Mike, you’re a young man. Pay attention to the older (and sometimes wiser) folks. Get the M3 cleaned up, running and in good condition and sell it. It will be worth more with original parts and pieces than with some “other†swap done, how ever nice it may turn out. Thank ahead!

Like it or not it’s coming! Not just in automobiles. It could be a good thing when someone says they didn’t, but they really did. Why should a guilty person with a dirty lawyer go free! On the other hand, why should an innocent person get convicted due to a broken system and or a dirty lawyer? If you don’t do wrong you have less to worry about. * notice I did not say you have nothing to worry about. Be afraid, be very afraid! I hate a liar!

Was it regular maintenance, fixing a problem or did something change? Just curious.

Thanks GLENN280ZX and welcome. Are you doing this mod to an s30 or s130? Please post your documentation, pics and results.

Bolts or studs, yes I`ve never neversized a gasket.

I wouldn`t tighten the header without the intake due to some of the bolts tighten both intake and exhaust manifolds. just my opinion

Mike, are you ready to bend some tubing? Let me know. I`ll help for some latter

If you can get the nut passed it`s old "stake" locations and "restake" it tightly, well mabye. . . The nut should really be replaced.

Ck that the cable release is free and not sticking. Ck and make sure the hood is aligned nicely with the fenders. Ck, lube or adjust the release mechanism. If the car is straight these items should get you squared away.

It’s the main shaft nut. The rear tail housing (back cover) on the trany needs to be removed. The nut is on the mail shaft, big nut can’t miss it. (don’t know the size). If you have some mechanical skills it not difficult, maybe get yourself a Nissan Service manual for your year. Otherwise, take it to someone.

Great info! Hey Admins & Mods, This should be a sticky.

I really wasn`t paying attension to it, but it was so mush lower it cault my eye. I also noticed that alot of pics in some posts aren`t showing up. I guess some more stuff got dumped?

What happened to the post count?

Right place Right time! Sounds like a great deal.

Could you please give some details on the adjustable links in this pic? What are they attaching to? Very nice looking work! Also, any details you care to share on how you are forming the rear panels on your car? (wheel well area)

Is it ready for me to come see yet?

Do you have body work pics of the black car in your avatar? Your website link is not working.

I have some documentation of my cable release hatch mod on my website. I never have gotten back to this project to complete it, but might give you an idea or two.

I’m impressed and jealous. Any build plans or are you documenting the build? Keep the pics coming please!

If you haven`t, take the inside flange off. May need a small puller to remove it, they can be tight making it hard to get the stub axle out. I would not use an air hammer and bit on the end of the stub axle until all else fails. If you have a big enoungh slide hammer it should come out with some good hard pulls.

Thanks for all the help. I just just word from the car owner and they are IMSA flares front and rear. Mike, these are what Jim`s rear flares started out as. (get where i`m going with this)