DaleMX

Here is a link to an adaptor for the slave cylinder side. I believe it to be the correct one, but test it out first as I got this info from LS1Tech.com. It is designed for use on a Jeep, but over in the Conversions forum they say that this does the trick. I’ll be replacing my homemade adaptor with this in the future. This is edited text, before 3/3/06 the wrong part number was posted. The following is now correct. http://eshop.advanceadapters.com/commerce/catalog/product.jsp?product_id=1868&czuid=1139373863609 The quick disconnect on the T56 is held on with a roll pin. Push the roll pin out and pull the assy out. Remove the o-ring and place it on the adapter, push it into the hole and re-insert the roll pin. The adaptor is a –3AN. On the master side go and get the Wilwood ¾" master setup and put the Datsun plunger into it. Open the hole in the firewall up enough to make it fit. The stud spacing is the same so it will just slide on. Attach a –3an adapter to the cylinder. http://www.circuitflex.com/Wilwood1.jpg Measure the length of –3an hose and get it from Earls or wherever and install it. Also here is what I did about the power steering issue. I got a second pulley and measured out a belt at NAPA. The order number for the belt is in the picture. The picture states that I moved the tensioner but I left the tensioner in the stock position and just added a pulley. http://www.circuitflex.com/ShortBelt1.jpg

If you dont mind a little bit of a rough rider then I would recommend a drivers side Poly engine mount to keep exhaust movement to a minimum. I put one on mine and it does transfer vibration to the frame, but the engine is rock solid in the bay so my exhaust never bangs under the car.

Well for what it's worth I dropped the LS1 in my car on the 4th of July. It took me until August 12th to go for the first drive. I only have my evening's and weekends but I put alot of time into it. I assume that you will be deleting the power steering pump so you will need to modify that. Also you need to come up with a clutch cylinder and improvise a way to mate up to the T56. PM me and I'll show you how I did mine, and a new way over on LS1Tech.com Just to get the car ready took me 2 months. Engine removal, engine bay cleanup, Tranny tunnel mods, Fixing up a throttle cable (I used an LT1 cable and it fit fine). Fitting and wiring an electric speedometer and tachometer. Running all the needed electrical for the fans and fuel pump. Take your time estimate and multiply it by 10. Then take your expected cost and multiply it by 2 or 3. The exhaust will have to be custom. You will have to weld on O2 bungs since all the aftermarket shorty headers dont have them. You have to have a good fuel pump to feed that hungry monster at 58 psi. If your not going to install an LS1 fuel tank then that means you need an aftermarket pump and regulator. You will need a good wiring diagram of the 280. Oh yea, remove the front bumper when putting the engine in or you will really have to fight it. That plus raise the whole car at least a foot off the ground with jackstands.

I got my Datsun on Ebay. It was shipped from Texas to Georgia. It came via Dependable Auto Shippers, Inc. out of Mesquite Texas. They did a good job and delivered it to my place of business. Maybe they have a connection for you. 1-800-826-1083

I always go over my posts an edit out any errors that I find (like the one above). For what it's worth I usually copy my posts into WORD and run the spell checker to ferret out any problems. It really makes a difference when others are reading it.

I think it's a good point. He's not saying you have to spend money to do it right, it's attention to detail. Like making sure your bearing clearances are right so you have good oil pressure. Do it right the first time and be done with it. Good point Dave.

Well for a big LS1 bore Darton sleeves are the way to go. I have an extra LS6 block that I had quoted for Sleeves and a bore to 4.125 (Dartons can go to 4.16). With my block in exchange he wanted 2,200. With a 4.00" crank that would be 427 CI. With 4.16 bore and a 4.125" crank you get 448. With a 4.25" crank you go 462 CI. Even if you went with a stock crank your talking 390 CI for around 3000 with new pistons. Not bad. This is the way I'm headed right now (390 CI). When I get the money for a good non twist Lutani 4.125 crank I'll be ready for it.

I agree with that, by the time you modify a SBC to reach the performance level of the LS1 then you might as well have gone that route. LS1Tech had a 2000 LS1/T56 drivetrain for around the 3500 dollar mark the other day. Just keep your eyes open and you can find a deal.

Paint look's worth trying, but I think that's just a dust mask with the kit and not a respirator. Personally I would use a true paint respirator as I dont take chances with my lungs. I also would wear a suit when spraying.

That sound's good to me, you can control the heat like that and keep the panel from warping.

Grumpy, now thats what I call a big block!

No, in the beginning they were referencing Cubic Meters. Then they went to Furlongs, then ...

I guess with a 4.2" bore and a 4.5" stroke you could do that. I know the standard Darton's can be taken out to 4.16 and 4.125 cranks are easy to come by and that get's you 448. The sleeved block is about $2600 and the crank with pistons and rods is about $4500 for a non twist and bullet proof rods.

Jack up the back of the car, mark the wheel (and the driveshaft), count the driveshaft turns it takes to make a full go-around of the wheel.

Check Lowes for the plugs.

I bet you would find blasting media in every nook and cranny of the car for the rest of it's life. I have heard it is nearly impossible to remove it all.

That my area code. Guess I'll give him a call. Thanks Mike!

Well I'm ready to put on my coilovers, but before I go ripping everything out I would like to know if it is possible to do the conversion without removing the strut assy completely from the car. I would like to leave it hooked up to the control arm and just drop it out of the fender. Would it be a real pita to cut the spring support off and weld on the new one in that position? Does the oil in the tube present a problem to welding? I should really ask Ross this question, but it's been so long since I got them that I'm a little embarased about it.

Actually a search on "Bi Projector" brings up quality auctions.

Go to the Rustolem web site and click on the industrial tab at the top go to high performance and check out the different paints there. They have some that you can use a tint with. They also list out the Enamels Acrylics, Urathane's and such. The one that sparks my intrest is at the bottom, the 9400 series.

I was looking around at x5, x3 stuff. It looks like bi-xenon is the way to go (low and high beams). They have a flapper that shields the light. On ebay do a search on "bi hid"