DaleMX

I think that cam is streetable, in fact it will sound mean as all getout. I am running a 230/224 with .585 lift and it took me a while to get it tuned and running happy. It's a little weak under 2500 but the 350 has plenty of torque to move the car in any gear at any time. P/V clearance is more of a duration issue than a lift issue and your cam is borderline big. If your P/V is ok then I'd button it all up and deal with the tunning. Dont use play dough as it's kinda springy, use modeling clay and use a set of solid lifter's in the cylinder of choice as the hydro lifters will give, and you wont get an accurate reading.

Those look like nice heads! Congrats! That seems like a fairly large cam. For sure do a P/V check before you crank it. You'll need a good tune to get the power out of it and to make it idle.

You guys are welcome to use my Mig (Lincon Promig 135) for a weekend.

You have got to watch the valve size for your bore. I suggest talking to Gunther at Patriot and follow his lead. I paid around 1,100 for my Absolute Speed stage 2 5.3 heads for my 5.7. Jay set the heads up to match my TR230 cam and I must say that when you match heads and cam up you get instant throttle response and tons of torque. TEA can also lead you in the right direction and they have a great reputation for the truck stuff.

I think that most anti-rust product pre treatments (like por 15) use electroless tin as a barrier metal that locks out O2.

It's like anything else, the quality varies. I'm using a spec stage 3 on the T56. It chatters a bit but other than that it holds firm. I'm sure it will last since I dont abuse it. Different application but still SPEC.

Ok, I updated my gallery. Here's the link. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=6899&cat=500&ppuser=10170

Yuk! I'm sorry, that just looks so rice.

Yep it fits just fine, I think there is a picture of one in my gallery. The link is in my sig. If you dont see what you want then PM me and I'll get you a pic. EDIT: I dont have one in there, DUH! I'll post one up tonight.

If you buy used aluminum heads they should be milled a bit (I have yet to see an aluminum head that didn't warp a little after being removed from the engine). Personally, I would use an ARP stut kit too. You never have to worry about the clamping force with the stud kit. Check out thunder racing, they have some nice stuff for the LT1's, so does Scoggins Dickey out of Texas.

Measure the brake diameter and measure the rim opening. You need a little room, but I suspect that 12-14mm is enough.

Radial T/A's have been around for quite a while, here's a link to the sizes you can get. http://www.bfgoodrichtires.com/assets/pdf/radial_ta.pdf

Chrome is really dangerous and hard to waste treat. That plus you have to be able to plate nickel well. Plating is a real science and takes alot of experience to be able to handle all the chemicals and troubleshoot the baths. Running a daily hull cell, pumping 66% HCL and 99% H2SO4. Keeping all the rinses clean, carbon treating. Ask me, I make circuit boards and I've been involved with plating copper, nickel, gold and tin for 30 years. Our bigest tank's are only 400 gallons, but our investment in tanks, rectifers, wastetreatment, and lab equipment has got to be upwards of 250,000 dollars. That plus the county monitors our water and the EPA makes regular visits. Oh, did I mention that you can get a big fine or be put in jail for not being in compliance with your counties regulations.

Priceless! Ha Ha that is funny. I saw a guy using latex gloves and welding under a car once. As I was watching I was wondering how flammable latex was.

and fell into

My Lincon was doing the sputtering thing again tonight, I loosed the wing nut holding the spool a bit allowing the wire to feed consistently and it completely solved the problem. It was popping and sputtering, but when the wire fed right it sounded like bacon in a frying pan and made really nice welds.

Nice job! LS1's are very impressive. Mine scares me above 4000 rpm. Hey I didn't see any O2 bungs in there, you going MAFless too?

When are you going to be ready to get paid for this?

Nice, I like the stripes.

My Lincon Pro-mig does that too. I just change the tip when it happens and it seems to help quite a bit but it never eliminates it.

The duals look cool, but the function of the light is being shrouded by the bucket. I dont think it would work well so I vote for the single.

I had to use a Sawzall to cut the spindle pins. If your carefull you wont hurt the control arms. Then it took 2 days of heat and a 12 ton press to remove the pins. The heat is what did the trick for me. I believe that what has been said about pushing the pin out is true, it tends to expand the metal a bit and is harder than pulling, but once you cut the pins your committed to pushing them out.

Put me on the list. Which side will you be going up on?

Good to have a reality check.