DaleMX

Thanks MAS, if it sticks I'll go NW without any delay. I have my WB now so when the intake goes on I will go SD and kill the MAF. All will be 4". I remember reading about the sticking and problems with the fulcrum moving on the shaft. They assured me that the problems had been fixed and I recieved a new revision TB. They flatted the shaft, but that's the only thing I could see that they have done on the TB. I'm going to warm it up to like 180 degrees in the oven and check it again. DaEvil, I cracked my LS6 intake. That, combined with the fact that I'm going to go 402 I decided on the 90mm fast. If you want to try to fix the LS6 you are more than welcome to it. I bought it cracked (paid 35 bucks) and repaired it. But after about 6 months of heat cycling the repair broke. I am just going to toss it so let me know if you want it, just pay the shipping.

Personally, I think the TransAM tank is a great idea. After I saw Bart's original post I found a 2001 tank on Ebay with the pump for 75 bucks. Look's like a great fit with minimal effort.

Look what Santa dropped of at my door today. 90mm Throttle body and matching intake. I'll start port matching this weekend. Now I really have to do something about my air filter setup!

I used Earls stuff on the master, but ended up drilling and tapping the fitting on the clutch slave.

Taurus fan here too. Dont know the cfm, but it really pulls alot of air. Kept the car at 185 in Georgia summer. Be forewarned that the fan pulls like 60 amps at startup and 30 to 40 when running. The wire to the fan relay should come from the alternator then through a 60 amp maxi fuse. Also, the fan is a 2 speed so if you take advantage of the computer you can run it like that too. Low speed still pulls quite a bit of air, but half the amps.

I run 58 using an adjustable regulator. I had this same problem and it was crap in the gas tank clogging up my tiny Earls fuel filter at the rail. I put on a much larger paper based fuel filter and solved the problem. I also run a filter before the pump but it is a screen type filter I got from Speed Inc to protect the walbro 255.

The stock U-Joints dont have a greese nipple on them, it's just solid metal. That's why their stronger. I'm still running the stock one's on mine and so far they have really taken a beating. Although CV's (300's and MM billet's) are on the way soon.

This is what a couple of Rocket Packs will do for a mini cooper. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/37927/master_blasters/

Nissan heater core, Speartech harness (the best), Willwood clutch cylinder for the hydro T56 clutch. Read as much as you can on this site then search and read again. Believe me, you wont be disapointed.

It's a nice target for paint ball practice.

2 boys, now you have all the help you need.

Yea! And that guy is about 2 feet from the exhaust! He must be deaf.

I enjoyed that.

Very Nice! I thought that John's kit was really easy, and I can't seem to see any difference in the alternator mounting. The mounting holes are the same on the blocks (at least to my knowledge) so if it was a problem an LS1 mount and alt would do the trick. That is really clean. All that torque is gonna do torque spins on takeoff!

Well with the 11.1:1 heads I'm running 93 has been ok, no knock. Your stock LS1 is at 10:1 and will run on 87, but the computer will default to the low octane spark table and your power will be gone. Nobody wants that, if you want to use low octane use a SBC with 9:1.

I put a wilwood in mine but the Tilton looks the same. A member of the forum suggested to me that the rod from the stock might fit the new cylinder. I tried and it fit like a glove, allowing the use of the stock flange that mounts to the pedal assy. Here's that thread. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96953

Happy Happy, Joy Joy!

Here's where I got mine from. http://www.autotrimsupply.com/CarCatalog/item/DATSUN280Z.htm

Personally I dont mind spending an extra 20 bucks every 3 months on my car. That's nothing compared to disaster like a small head gasket leak that breaks down the cheap oil in your car then kills the bearings. And when it comes to the life of the oil the only way to really tell is to have it tested. Check out the "Bob is the oil guy" link below. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/whatisoilanalysis.htm

I got a carpet kit from a group in Flordia. I'll look up their name when I get home tonight. The carpet was ok, but you have to cut everything up front to fit. I was a little disapointed in that, but the quality of the carpet is ok and if you take your time it will come out good. The rear fit perfect. Personally I would look for one that was pre-cut, it would be much easier.

Mounting your own tires is really not that hard. I have done several sets then just put them on the car and drove it and got them ballanced at my local GY store. If you lube the tire up and do it from the back with a big screwdriver (carefull!) and your a33 you can save some buck's.

Go close to the bottom and click on the link for the showdown, the temp ranges are listed there. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=106231

500 FWHP is an everyday thing on LS1's. That's only like 440 RWHP. For the investment in the manifold and carb, and all the pain in tunning it just seems easier to stay with the EFI in my opinion. I have not dynoed my setup, but others with the same get 420 to 440 rwhp with a good tune. Did I mention it idles like really well and starts the second I hit the key in 30 degree weather. Humm, so much torque that any gear at any speed is ok. EFI is great and I'll never go back. That being said I think it's ok to run a carb on the LS1, but not as cost effective or efficient as EFI.

I am going to be installing my coilovers soon. 10" 225 lb per in. I figure that the car is about 2800 so about 700 lbs on each spring. So 700 / 225 = 3.11" of spring compression at rest. I have the 5" threaded shafts so I was going to place rest position at about 2" down on the threaded shaft from the calculated top of the threaded shaft. That should give me enough room to lower the car an inch or so. Does that sound right?

Im using a poly mount on the drivers side and a rubber mount on the passenger side. You can really feel the vibration from the engine, in fact it rattles everything in the car when I'm under load below 3000 rpm. But the exhaust doesn't bang on the floor and the engine stays really stable in the bay. Personally I would like to reduce the vibration a bit.