DaleMX

It's not rocket science, it's a cable from point a to b. What's so tough about that?

That's what I thought, thank's Jon. Thanks Terry, the bar is solid aluminum, but mounts to the frame with poly bushings. I'll search for info on that issue.

I had to masage the tunnel on both the passenger and drivers side for the "Reverse switch" and the "Reverse lockout" respectivly. Keep the Reverse lockout, you'll be glad you did.

Sounds like fuel. Maybe a bunch of crud from the tank got knocked loose and plugged the filter up. I run 2 filters on mine because so much stuff comes from the Z tank. Eventually I'll put a new tank in it, but for now I just change filters about every 500 miles.

I have gone to a solid mount and AZ's billet mustache bar. I am wondering if I can just leave the counterweight out, or would it be better to leave it in. Any thoughts?

Yea, something like a "-SP". It's an experience I'll never forget. Oh Mat, the patches are great.

Best Wishes to you Pete, FWIW I have a friend that went through that surgery a few years back and he is as good as new to this day. Oh, and change over to LS1 stuff, the blocks weigh in at 80 lbs.

What are you using to feed the field on the alt? On the model they used a rectified feed from the A/C coil on the flywheel.

I decided to not section since I'm using a 26" dia wheel to try and fill up the well. But because the 350Z wheels dont look like I expected I might end up with some smaller wheels to keep the brakes from looking so tiny. If that happens and I run out of travel I'll section it. I should have the car on the ground next week, but it looks like I am going to have to roll the fender lips to get the 245's to fit. Right now I have the control arms maxed out so when I bring them in it will help with the clearance a bit, but I still will have to roll.

MMMMM!

They really are a work of art. I delayed putting them on because I didnt want to scratch them! And yea I'm a little worried about the ride height too. I got the wheels on a super deal so I thought if I had to I would just sell them and get some 16's. No issues with the install. It's all very straight forward, just time consuming. The springs are Ross's 10" 225 lb. The swaybar for the rear is stock. I am thinking about an aftermarket bar to complete the AZ setup.

Been jackstand racing for a while. I wanted to replace the R200 with an LSD I have had in the basement so I took the time and replaced about everything else too. I put in the Arizona Z billet bar and finned cover setup, the R200 3.70 LSD, Ross's Control arms, 225 10" coilovers, Illuminas, 5 lug stub axles, 240SX brakes, and 350Z 18" wheels. Tires are 245/45/18. Oh yea and Billet companion flanges and CV's. Next I get to do the front. Here's a couple of pics.

The reflections on the wheels are different, looks real to me.

Looks nice, good job!

Sounds about right. I have a cam, 36 lb injectors, 90 mm TB, ported heads with 11:1, and I can still tweek 21 out of it.

I used a 3/4" wilwood cylinder and resevoir on mine. I think there is a picture of the old datsun one and the new wilwood in my gallery link in my sig.

I never used the ARP bolts before, just the stud kit. With the stud kit you install the stud in the head finger tight, put a little moly lube on the back of the nut, then torque the nut onto the stud at 75 Ft Lbs. That way you dont have to worry about getting accurate clamping pressure, and the studs and nuts are reuseable. Looks like you have done alot of work already. I bet you have the cam and heads done pronto. That bi*** is gonna sound mean!

If you go with the stock tty bolts then make sure the holes are really clean and free of any liquid. If liquid is in the hole when you torque the bolt it can crack the block. If you take one of the stock used bolts and grind up and down the threads on one side of it and make a bolt that kinda looks like a tap, then you can use that to get the factory thread lock out of the holes by running it in a few time then blowing the hole out. Also now that you are upgrading you have to remember that the stock tune will make you run really lean at WOT and could cause some serious damage. Get it tuned up before you step on it. The computers use the O2 at part throttle, but use maps at WOT. You may even need to upgrade the injectors.

I use the vacuum method also and it is a far superior method. The only thing about it is you have to keep a good eye on the fluid level or you'll run dry and make more work for yourself. Go ahead, ask me how I know.

Clifton, is that a stock swaybar just turned around?