(goldfish)

Almost sounds like a motor with a dead spot, The weight of the window going down let's it push through.

For a N/A application, the turbo engine doesn't really offer anything over other engine combos.

Pushed the back button on the mouse to go back a page, and the download file dialog box popped up. opera 12.16

There should be 3 buttons in the pedals, 2 in the brake, and 1 for the clutch. 1 button is for the brake lights the other two are for the cruise control. I think I have a spare one some where if your brake lights are always on. Normally the dim headlight is the headlight switch has dirty contacts. You need to remove it and take it apart and clean them. I used a green scrubbie but was told pencil erasers work too. It's fairly easy to do. The rear defogger sensor is for the auto on function, you should be able to push the switch manually to turn it on.

Checked to make sure she was still in the garage. Yup.

As Wizardblack says, you aren't thinking about compound setups. If both turbos boost to 10 psi, the engine sees 100psi. Most gas engines can't handle that level of boost.

That's the incorrect definition of tension for this. It still resists both the tension force trying to lenghten the rod, and compression that is trying to shorten the rod.

Link is broken. So the open exhaust made the most power. I can hang with that. The Supertrapp with 24 discs didn't show to bad, but if I take out some so it only has 18 discs it makes less power? Makes you question the charts.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/54629-front-tube-chassis/ Just some more discussion on it

I'm assuming you have seen this thread, but I'll still throw it out there. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109633-positively-displaced/

Been there, just take it easy. You want it to heal correctly

Based on the chart show % composition of other alloys, that makes me think that the pure Aluminum is just that, pure. In that case it does not relate very well to the Al radiators.

Dryer (bounce) sheets seem to work pretty good, and don't smell too bad in the spring

No "need" for 3" But it will make more power and if he is replacing it anyway, might as well.

Same thing pretty much happened to my old motor. Never figured it out. I would thing the oil filter bypass should open if the filter f-s up.

Good to see you back in a Z. Long time. Check the group buy, there is a 17 x 9 buy in there. All the faqs got moved to there own subforum.

Making note of where the valve stem hole is on those rims, they have massive positive offset.

Well, I guess that's the route I'll go, and hope my measuring is wrong. Unless somebody has the diameters of their bushings? Make sure I didn't get the wrong part in the box. The number on the box matches up.

I ran it to some issues when trying to replace the front lower control arm bushings in my 82. If I leave the outer shell of the old bushings in per the instructions they don't fit. But my measurements say if I cut out the out shell the new bushings will be loose in the hole, as in they would fall out if tipped sideways.

I miss read that the first time across. Should read like this. As in what volume it will use in a given time, not really what size compressor it needs. CFM @ 15 Second Run Time Average 5.0 CFM Full Load 24.0 CFM For a couple of bolts with a pause in between I think you should be fine.

Isn't that the same rims from the group buy?

My understanding is there is not to much strength in the "frame rails", It's mostly the rockers and tranny tunnel.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/49371-so-you-want-to-swap-a-rotary-into-your-z-how-to/ he never finished, but pretty far. He might have more threads.

Both N47 heads have smaller chambers than the P79!

It's how to figure out your compression ratio. I think you will really want a stand-a-lone so you can dial in your advance. Sounds like stock isn't so good under those compression ratios.