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Long time comming. COngrats!

Cary where do you get bias ply slicks for much less than 1000 to 1300 per set? I would love to run full slicks but usually just go with victor racers. They are a pertty good value for track days. As for the class issue, I assure you there is no class at all when this group is at the track.

The best colors ore the ones with out primer spots (any color primer) Mine is currently grey and black primer and no brown polkadots from rust spots or holes.

I second that

I read this about 20 minutes ago and I'm still laughing. You bring the tequila, I have the valium. Together we can both shoot our toes off and not care.

I'm sure John has some very technical things in mind when he asks a question. Jt is very detail oriented and it shws on the track and in his car preparation. I'll give you my scattered less detail oriented thoughts. I've ran the yellow Z numerous times, mostly on victor racers. 245 17s rear and 225 17s front. Spring rates from 225 to 350 at varoius times. Struts are double adjustable konies. No matter the alinment settings, springs or shock adjustments, I steer with the throttle. Turn in is crisp and predictable. The car will rotate how and whenI want it to based on throttle input. I love it but I want more grip. My yet to be proved solution for this is 315 17 rears and 285 fronts. Different shocks and springs. Lighter car with a little less camber in the rear and more caster in the front with a little less toe out in the front. My goal is to have a car with similar handeling characterists but at a higher limit. I*'ll start the process of debugging the car soon. The general alingment specs on both cars follow John COffeys recomendations that is in a sticky somewhere. I did end up geting the big tire car about a half an inch lower at the rockers than the yellow car. I've yet to scale the car but I bet weight distribution will be very similar between the two. If I rambel or am incoherent it's 10 mg of valium speaking:biggrin: John, What are you working on?

I thought it was a joke until I looked at the web site. Looks interesting. I think that is just what the white car needs.

Put some sort of fuel injection on the car. Get Jeff Creach to tune it and be done. Set it and your done. No metered fuel leak to deal with. Either way, what you need to bring to the track are extra stub axels for JT, rocker arms and lifters for me, and wine and cheese for the guys that can't believe you just ran them down in a 35 yr old jap tin can. See ya at the track soon!

Contact John Coffey. I think his carbon fiber guy does doors also. They wont be cheap but they will be nice. Run from Showcars!

Avoid the wooden decks. I've got a 20 foot metal deck with dual axels and a beaver tail. Mike is right about the longer ramps. Mine trailer is 15 years old and it is showing its age. If I was to buy another open trailer, I would buy a name brand all aluminum trailer. Light weight and it wont rust. I did put bed liner on my trailer deck and ramps. It made loading the car on wet trailer much easier. Wet steel and slicks don't mix well.

Butt ugly jmo

Heads and cam!

I agree!

A stock e36 m3 has about 230 hp and 220 torque. No matter the shape of the curve, if it maxes out at 220, it is not in any way superior to any ls based engine. It is a very fun car to drive and they handel exceptionally well. The price is steep especially when compared to the JTR stuff.

My car has moved from one end of the lift to the other. Not much experience with them yet. I know Tom uses there shafts in a high HP turbo road course car and has had no problems at all with there shafts. I've also been in there shop and they seem to know what they are talking about. They do alot of parts. Lots of high HP front wheel drive stuff to drive shafts and axels for high hp diesel pickups. I feel pretty confident in there parts.

Funny stuff! I think you have a new nick name, HOT ROD......... Dan, can you make that happen?

Is that the Drive Shaft Shop that is located in NC? If so, They have done at least 3 sets of those now. Yours, mine and Tom's.

The bolt pattern is the same. You will be fine. My stops are a little different than yours but this may work for you also. If a machine shop will not put you stops on a lathe and turn them down, you can use a bench or angle grinder and make them just small enough to go inside the stock end caps. The stock end caps will hold the grease in place and once the axels are bolted in place, the stops will work as they are supposed to.

It would be worth the drive Terry. The first test was a blast.

Good to hear you are getting it sorted out.

I've got the ZX master on one of my cars so this really does interest me. If (a BIG IF) I understand Terry's post then it takes 1/3 of the stroke of the master to make the pads contact the rotors assuming .010 inch of travel and the volumes stated above. Is that correct?

What kind of compression will you be running? How similar in size are the combustion chambers?

However, if we are talking about the ZX master cyclinder. it has limitations. If rear calipers with a larger diameter piston are used, the ZX master may not have enough volume to move the pistons enough to provide any reasonable clamping force. I'm sure there is a range of piston sizes that would work to increase or decrease rear bias with the ZX master but above a specific piston area the ZX master would run out of fluid. Any one know the stroke of the ZX master? Yes it's a slow day at work.

Terry you are correct as usual. My post was not as detailed as it should have been. Thanks for your indepth answer. I still think John's piece is a very good way address the issue of dialiing in brake bias with different caliper combinations. You havet the ability to pick the master size as need for front and rear and a balance bar to fine tune.

If you use a rear caliper with a larger piston area you will have less rear brake bias. To increase rear brake bias (increase the travel of the pistons in the rear calipers) you need to either use a bigger master for the rear or a smaller piston area in the rear calipers. The converse of this would be to leave the rears alone and reduce front brake bias.