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Cant help, no speekee honda:mrgreen:

What car, what injection system, what fuel pressure regulator, what pump?

Nice wheels Bart. Looking forward to seeing them on the car with tires.

THanks Cary, that is the one thing I wondered about when putting them together.

Gary, how was the loosening problems olved?

The car has 17 inch wheels, I needed the ability to get the car low. The tube is 6 inches, 4 inches threaded. The non threaded part is a larger ID than the threaded part. The threads on the shock will fit into the nonthreaded part. The shock then bottoms out on the cut protion of the Z strut tube. The rockers are at about 5 inches from the ground. THis is pretty close to where I want the car to sit. I can't imagine a car with the rears done like the web site says. If I had left 5 inches of tube, the new threaded 6 inch tube would slip over 2 inches of that, that still is 3 inches taller that I have the car. I can still go another inch or so lower but it would stil be too high. The part on the web site about assembling the suspension before welding is very good advice.

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I've just installed a set on my car. It will be a while before it moves. A few comments. This stuff is really nice. I doubt there will be any play between the threaded body and the tube. The lock nut looks like it will take care of it. I put this stuff on the car because I wanted the car very low and still have some suspension travel. I got it. I cut the strut tubes as described on Daves web site and put it together before welding anything. Got the ride height where I wanted it, took it back apart and then welded it. The threaded collars that are welded to what is left of the Z strut stubes have very close tollerances. I had to remove the paint on the Z strut tubes to get them to slip in to place. The trial fitting makes it easy enough to have whatever amount of threaded shock you want inside the threaded tube. If I had it to do over, here is what I would have one differently. On the fronts, I would have left only .75 inches of Z strut tube on front. The lowest height adjustment of the threaded shock happens when the shock body bottoms out on what is left of the sectioned Z strut housing. This would have given me .75 inches lower ride height before I had to start adjusting the coil over part. The rears ended up being welded with a 1.25 section of Z strut housing left on the forging. I still have an inch or so to go lower. On the adjustment of the front shocks, I'm working on it. Trying to use on of those flexable screw drivers that will be either tack welded to the adjusting nut or more likely drilled and pinned. I have drilled a hole at about 45 degrees upward on the inboard side of the forging. It allows adjusting while still on the car. I have tried numerous sizes and types out tubes and clamps to get tit to hold. No success. Next is the modified flexable screw driver. Hope that helps.

One of the plugs in the floor pans is a perfect fit.

Strut angle minus angle of rake of the car?

You can remove it. I removed mine many years ago. It does take some time to learn to shift from 4 to 5. I have never engaged reverse but it is tricky. If some one was real smart, they would figure out a way to use the plunger part with a lighter spring on it and cut off the rest. All you need is a little pressure in there to remind you on the 4 5 shift that reverse is over there some where.

My stock 93 lt-1 lasted untill 2006. It spent the last 10 or so years in my Z doing weekend duty and track days. Regular oil and filter changes. Now it's a 383 pulling the same duty. I expect it will last at least as long as the 350 did. the life of a 350 with out oil pressure is about 5 seconds. Unfortunantly, I learn best from experience.

Post a pic of the bracket beside a tape measure taken with the part flat on the ground.

Ernie, Good luck with what ever it is you are getting into. Many thanks for the technical advice you have given me over the years. It all was solid advice and worked out great. It's amazing you were able to do that and not even have a hybrid Z! Hope you drop by and check in occasionally.

Car is hot, cut it off, the parts that were hottest heat the cooler parts. Your temp sender that was cooled by circulating water cooled from the radiator is on longer being cooled. Parts like the exhaust manuifold that are very hot act as a heat source. Your temp gauge goes up.

heat soak

Is this with a cold car or has the car been driven and is up to temp?

TC= tension compression

THe inside of the arm looks pitted and rusty. Is it? Do you think this had a hand in the failure?

Price quote from my buddy the service manager at the local Porsche dealer. 12 grand for rotors and calipers for 4 corners. !!!!!!!

Funny stuff, now where is my pop corn?

I bought the Sony. I was tired of grainy video on the big screen. The pic is amazing! I burn the video I want to keep to a DVD and play it on the blue ray disc player. Really have not done any editing. Just copy and save. Well worth the money.

have your insurance carrier contact them. Your insurance carrier does not want to pay a claim that is not there responsibility. Have them deal with the at faults insurance. Someone at the other company is trying to make some numbers look good. Maybe a summer bonus comming up.

Test them with a 9 volt battery. You should hear them open and close with the battery. If that works you have other issues.

I ordered 2 of the 275 size slicks this week. Joe was great to work with. He shipped when he said he would and the tires have lots of rubber left on them. Another great hybrid Z guy. If you need this size rubber, check this out. You can't beat the price. Other used slicks I've bought before have been at least 70 per tire plus shipping. It's ashame that I can only get the 275's. I need something a little wider for the rears. More on that later. Now off the Roebling road with THSSC!