mark

I'm in. Let me know, when and how much. SOunds cool. Good luck, I hate the cold!

I'm not sure when the isolators changed. If it's like most other stuff on the 260, the early ones are like the 240's and the later are like the 280's.

The later strut housings will work just fine on a 240. I'm running them on my 72. They (the part the strut sits in) are a larger diameter but the housings are the same length. The strut isolator (the rubber top part) is taller on the 280.

I still have a clutch master cyclinder fitting that was repaired at the track with JB weld. That was 3 years ago. Still holding but I think I'll replace it next time it is apart.

Some one will make a fortune on these things. It won't be long until Pep Boys have hub caps that do the same thing. lol

I Like It ! Sweet!

JTR book covers this. I don't remember the exact answer but it involved a switch that is activated by a depressed clutch pedal. I never did anything about it either. Just remember to have the clutch in or the car out of gear. It would be safer to not start in gear.

You are comparing apples to oranges. For example, what are the specs on the brakes?

I guess I should give you all the info. I'm running a fuel cell in the car. A nissan fuel sender in the cell was not an option. I knew I would eventually go to non stock gauges, so the GM sender was chosen. Hope that helps. If you are keeping the stock tank, the stock gauge and sender will sork just fine. I would reccomend a surge tank and a second pump for the surge tank if you plan on anything like solo events or open track days.

If you are using a GM sensor, the stock gauge will read backwards. That is why I repainted the stock gauge's face. It was a bandaid to get the stock gauge to read somewhat close. I have since replaced all the gauges with autometer gauges.

I don't klnow what all the fuss is about with the humidity in NC. Sure it gets a little sticky in the summer but the beaches, mountains and the nice people more than make up for it. If the humidity is really a concern, try Ashville area. In the mountains of NC, beautiful place, fairly mild winters but the real estate is getting pricey there.

It will pretty much read backwards. I took my stock gauge apart and made the E an F and the F an E. Got me close enought to know when to fill up.

I think the car would look better if the wheels were the same color as the flairs. Looks like a gun metal color on the flairs. Those wheels would look great that color. jmho

The Q drive shaft is a much nicer part than the chevy drive shaft. Larger diameter, welds look nicer and was highly recomended by my drive shaft shop. He didn't give me anyother reasons but I pay for his knowledge and it works.

I'll be at Roebling Road Memorial Day weekend with the lt-1 Z

Lmao

Looks like the master on my 240's. Take it offf the car and see if another set of holes was drilled to fit that master. Some of the nissan masters will work on a 240 but the mounting studs don't exactly match the holes and some people will redrill the fire wall to mount the different one. Not a big deal.

I would leave the battery up front and keep the tank in the rear. If you are wanting more weight on the front because the engine sits so far back, mount the engine a little farther foward. Where will the shifter be in relation to the stock shifter? You could also use a smaller cell in the rear. 10 to 12 gallons would save weight also.

I smell a scam. The rest of the sellers items are silverware.

Looks like he was trying to left foot brake. Just pressed both pedals too hard!!

Interesting topic grumpy. I've got one good friend that is a car guy. I can call him at 11 pm and he will come down and help me pull a tranny. Now that is a friend. Of course, I live in one of those neighborhoods where most guys think a transmission is how you get a sexually transmitted disease. But the truth is, that being a guy, I'll probably do it myself and grunt, strain and cuss before I ask for help. Having friends takes time. Time is the one thing I have a hard time sharing.

I'm sure some one already knows this and may have posted it but I have not seen it. I was looking for an O2 sensor with a long lead to make wiring to a nonstock location a bit easier. This sensor has a 3 foot lead. I just recieved two of them for the ls1 track car. http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/quote.jsp?year=2001&product=C5010-144041&application=000517217&part=Oxygen%20Sensor&dp=true I've seen extensions for the sensor leads but this looks easier and cheaper if you need new sensors anyway.

I don't think crack propagation will be a concern.

Glad to hear you had a great time. Quinten is a great help to anyone who needs it at the track and he can do it all. Turn three has claimed it's share of cars. It looks so easy. How your student? What kind of car did he drive?