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buZy

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Everything posted by buZy

  1. The rad doesnt leak from sitting for years outside not running must be wasted corroded inside, unless its a core youre after? but if you want it no problem. The rest, Rusted! Serious, check it out. Mbar might cut out ok, the rest rusted, more like welded soild together. These pieces really gone beyond saving Jason. The hood spring and pivots are good if someone wants them.
  2. Van, You are right .Its not the police as they are good guys really. I respect them Alot. I just know its my cheezy neighbor and his bitch of a wife (opps). Cops was just a metaphor. The officer I asked if I could cover it, Nope. She was smoking hot by the way. Hot babe in uniform, damm no ring should have asked her out! I'd love to hide it, but im not putting that piece of crap in my garage lol! Yea I will pull parts and donate but, its time for her to go:(
  3. Got a letter today from the local cops. The 78 280z parts car I have must go as dated today 8/7/07 in 30 days or they will screw me with fines. Don't these people have better things to do...It's sad. So to give back to all you hybridz memebers who have helped me so much. You all can have it, ....Free Parts! ...what ever is left of it. You just cover shipping costs only on large or heavy parts typical. Small stuff light, Free. The only thing I am keeping is both complete doors. If interested, PM only with me Direct requests cause it wont be here long! EDIT: (The tail lights there in one piece, but the filler panels are gone. Also gone is the stubbies, half shafts and front hubs. keep in mind the body totally All RUSTED GONE from a life MN winters. Most interior pieces are in good shape the but main console is pretty wasted. Cracked dash lol. Rack n pinion should still be good. Steering collum is good complete but covers are gone. front grill is complete with turn lights but it ain't pretty rusty but not smashed or bent, restorable. The sealed but rusty outside R200 open diff, probobly not worth cutting out due to heavy shipping shipping since they are everywhere anyways. Don't ask for the tranny, or N47 head... im not going there. Just the easy basic stuff. Complete suspension/strut housings are there but Very Rusty. I would imagine the cartriges are very seized in them. But if someone wants them there are esay to cut out. Again heavy, probobly not worth your time.) Brian
  4. Oh they salt the roads here. They say the bridge though had a non-corrosive de-icing system installed few years ago. But it was rusty in areas like you mentioned. Who knows yet why it fell. I'm not a bridge designer but to me it could have been more built with more mass, i.e upper arch above the deck etc. Or inspected more often being it was by far the most heavily used span in our state. I know accidents happen but one would think in this day of science they could have closed the bridge before it fell. Even just in case it might be prone to fall? On a national score 1 to 9 it ranked a 4, if you can put that number into some kind of perspective good luck. Idiots! Cheap penny pinching bastards, it cost us way more now. Finally shows how screwed up the current priorities in this state are, though too bad it had to come to this. Another classic example of putting too much of your trust and safety into big government ideals. (sorry mods for being poiltical, i know the rules. it wont happen again.)
  5. I live about 3 miles from the bridge and just crossed it this morning. Now its gone. Saw the scene myself tonight. Very bad. This bridge was huge about 1000 ft long and 50 ft above the river. Video does not do the tremdous damage justice. Surreal. Our city wont be the same for quite some time. I pray for the people hurt and loss of life. http://wcco.com/topstories/local_story_213191448.html
  6. FWIW Nothing new here, you have heard it from many before. Street car. I did the azc four piston hd front and rear upgrade with the zx master. Repeated stops from 120 plus are straight, comfortable and very predictable threshold approaching lock up. For me at least, it would take ALOT of braking instance to actually overheat these parts. Safety was greatly improved keeping up with todays abs cars. Also the rear end ran much smoother above 100 from just swapping to discs with no other changes. It must be from not having the drums pulsing the adjusted brake shoes. Must also add I took the time to face the the stub axels and adjusted all the rotors to runount under .004.
  7. http://www.colemanracing.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=49_427
  8. Ok just them bolt on? How about preloading some tension into it as well. With car on the ground adjusting the bar length so the towers are being slightly pulled together. Removing as much as possible, fastener, mounting points, or mounting brackets tolerance. For S30 bolt-on bars this tension would create a very insignificant amont of shear on the suspension isolator studs, yet removing almost all the mounting tolerenaces. After bar tension is applied, then tighten all mounting points. So the bar, as much as possible, becomes a stressed member in the car like every other major component in the unibody. To me proper installation is key to creating such a member from a bolt-on item with many intersections of motion.
  9. How about something like on chelle's GTO. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=14876&cat=500&ppuser=8375
  10. She is hot! ...and rich $$$ ...and cars too.. I would have no problem drinking her dirty bath water. lol
  11. http://www.motorsportscenter.com/article_808.shtml
  12. Not sure here but...With coilovers how about just swap to longer springs of your desired rate ??? 8,9,10,11,12 should get you there? For what its worth I run 10's non-sectioned all around. Car currently 1.25 lower than stock. Though could be sectioned below the spring perch with the shorter illumina setup and adjusted up to a lower ride height without switching springs. The spring length was picked to cover both conditions through the 4 inch adjustment range. If you end up needing to cheat it by only a little bit, make a short spacer between the body stop and upper coilover hat. Making a zcar as low as possible is not always a win/win deal when it comes to performance handling. Compromise do exist for sure. Ok I dont' know where. I'm not knowleged in that area so don't tread on me. But seen serious racers on here mention it breifly. Every ride is different of course. EDIT: Your car is really nice, ..don't roll the fender lips.
  13. Nice but it lacks attitude. Too PC, like most new cars. In my opinion the artist who drew this is on the right track.
  14. Bartman, where did you get those adj arms? Have yet to see that particular design. Brian
  15. Mega Dittos. You have to coolest ZX on HybridZ. Major congrats!
  16. That is so cool! Race Z history there. Reminds me of watching Paul Newman race at Donnybrooke when I was a kid.
  17. RUBY The dual exhaust and lower air splitter rocks. Nice work!
  18. If your not running dual exhuast go with an updated stock tank. In the end, it's lighter.
  19. I don't mind the tail section. Can you say mega 50's era overhang? Actually the hood alone has a great cowl design, though who knows how it was built. The front on the other hand looks like a sissy cartoon carp fish mouth. All its missing is a hook lol. Hey at least he admits it has rust issues.
  20. A solid mount will sing a little bit as the gear carrier is less isolated. If your getting more vibs than you expected check your DS ujoints, balance, and running angles/axis. I only mention it as mine is very rigid too being the pinion is trapped from the top and bottom. I really spent the time setting up the DS. After doing so running the car on jack stands without the halfshafts installed to fully isolate any variations from a possible missalignment mistake. It runs very smooth. About the only frequency experienced must be from the actual ring and pinion gear mesh itself which is nothing more than a slight sound at speed.
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