BrandonsZ

This is what producers think the 16-25 demo wants to see people talkin' like... i.e. retards. If you don't get it it's probably becase you aren't in the demographic. I tried to watch it Saturday... "tried". I'm too old to appreciate the subtle nuances of "let's beef this puppy up". I mean I've probably said the same thing myself but it just doen't sound very credible coming from a cabe TV show. Sounds a tad phony to me. But I lost the illusion which supposedly 16-25 year-old have. Of course this site has a smarter class of people so you don't have to be in your 30's to hate that type of show. Remember Carl's Jr. They sell to the same demo. P.S. Tom Licas was discussing this yesterday.

I have noticed a significant imporvement over the last few months. It only smells now if I floor it or decelerate for a long slow hill in a low gear, and even then, much less than before. I was kinda worried my cat might be getting clogged or something because of that, except my gas smell never came back.

1. Mine is nice inside, and even in Bonsal on a 100+ day it was suprisingly cool inside, REALLY a black interior in an orange car and my friend commented before I could even realize that we stepped out of 100 degree air and were sitting in my car at a stoplight and DID NOT feel all that hot. I do however have aluminum bonded cloth fiber insulation stuffered everywhere. And about 3 lbs of black asphalt based adhesive based sound deadening. under most of the panels. No trouble with heat here. 2. That vibration you feal is from the freekin huge engine in a tiny little lightweight car. If you don't plow your foot in the pedal it's smooth as a baby's butt. Again not an issue for me, I have the proper driveline angles obviously, poly motor mounts, and a stock tranny mount. no problem unless I'm into the secondaries in 1st or 2nd. I consider it more like what it must feel to be strapped to a rocket. No squeeks or rattles except when it's really cold <40F the plastic around the windows make a styrofoam vs styrofoam noise. 3. I did have that same issue, somehow the exhaust gets in the driver's window, how? I have no idea but on a cold morning I see the freekin fumes coming in the window behind my head even at as high as 15 mph!. It was especially bad when I floored it, but prety constant otherwise. To fix this I put a CAT in the exhaust and never smelled gas again. Now it's like any other car, but because the carburator dumps fuel inthe exhaust when I floor it I smell something like following an underpowered volvo as it struggles to pull up a hill. Kinda like cooked eggs. But it goes right away. If anything this car pretty much picks up any smell from outside no matter where it's coming from. I actually decided to add the cat when I was getting over a cold and my eyes were watering and I was coughing but only when driving my car. I figured I better do something. Now it's great, and even the egg smell is not noxious. I drive it every day and I wouldn't drive anything else, it's like a 4 wheeled motorcycle. You can't beat the feeling of 1:8 power to weight ratio. and 1:6.6 torque to weight. I'm only sad for myself having missed this for so long.

I think it's another move by these companies to squash the unions. Welcome to New Wal-Mart (The name that New York City will adopt to avoid bankruptcy). Ok maybe that's too far... for now.

Dangit that's cheaper than I paid for my stock 240z!

Mcmaster-Carr has them. I recommend the Nickle plated kind. Neodynium-Iron-Boron also kdsmagnets.com can make any size shape etc. I was always scared to put them on the inside of my oil pan in case it got loose or moved and became a plug for the oil pickup or a projectile, but it's probably just my own paranoia. They're strong as heck, you just about can't get two of them apart once they're stuck. We used them as magnetic detents for a mechanism that needed a positive stop without running hte mechanism intot he hard stop. IT would get within 1/4 inch and "pop" snap into place.

I had a dream last night that I took my 350 out and put a SR25 (SR20 bored and stroked to 2.5L if that's even possible). Then I was holding a turbo that looked like it came off a diesel truck. Somehow I was going to rebuild the top end to handle 10k minimum and in my dream I was looking to put out the same horsepowe and torque of my V8 but double the gas mileage. when I looked at my engine it had a smaller turbo already on it. So maybe I was thinking twin turbo. SR25TT? In reality, I'm not sure if my .5 6th would still be my cruzing gear on the freeway after that swap. then again, it might be able to tug it along. I bet I wouldn't get much boost at 1500rpm with a turbo that looked like it would start kicking in at 6k. In my dream I was in some sort of school and the instructor gave me the turbo. Wierd. It got me thinking though. Maybe my next project will be TT, I kind of like the idea of having a doube sleeper, looking like a sleeper on the outside and under the hood a small 4 cyl but still kick a**.

I still think a well placed board painted black with screws sticking out of it would do the trick.

1978... what a shame the rolling smog law was stopped. You'd be smog free by now. Did you ever research the paperwork necessary from the DMV to replace the engine with a newer one out of a different car? I know it's legal but I think it involves a referee check, a fee and some paperwork.

I 9-year old kid on my street said "My dad has a Honda, but you have a REAL car." I assured him that his dad's car is also a real car. He hears my exhaust when I come home and always comes running up to talk. Nice kid. The 90-year-old woman next door said, "You have such a nice little car." I told her I put a V8 in it and she said, "Oh, and fast, but be careful." I wonder if it was a bright orange Corvette or Porshe if the'y make the same comments. Nobody comments on my wife's Lexus, it's just background noise I guess. A little off subject, but another guy at Kragen was confused when I wanted an o-ring for the radiator neck and when he asked, "what kind of car is it" I had to tell him I didn't know. It's just easier that way.

There was a real assclown working with me at a dealer once who wouldn't shutup about how his B2000 was the fastest truck on the road. N/A 2.0L Mazduh. He lowered it so far that the suspension was scraping the ground and he threw sparks where ever he went. Some people are just too dumb to deserve the ability to speak.

Everyone likes to use the term RAT ROD except the actual rat rodders. I did a little research and to be a true rat-rodder: "Rat rod is a newly developed name for the original hot rod style of the early 1950s. A rat rod is usually a vehicle that has had many of its non-critical parts removed. They are usually finished in primer-like paints and are often period correct. They are very often the conglomeration of parts and pieces of different makes and models. A typical rat rod is an early 1930s through 1950s coupe or roadster with the body set low on the frame, fenders removed, whitewall tires, big-little tire combos, exposed engine bay, home-made upholstery, and lots of power. A Rat Rod is considered to differ from a Hot Rod in a number of key terms. A Rat Rod is generally considered to be a home built, low budget, one off custom that is still often driven and has many flaws and/or imperfections. In popular usage a Hot Rod is now considered to be a high end, high budget show car that emulates the early Hot Rods in style but sports flashy paint high end upholstery and generally rarely see much in the way of road time. (See Boyd Coddington as an example of new-age Hot Rods) In many ways Hot Rod is now synonymous with Trailer Queen (a car that is never actually driven but is purely for display and trailered from show to show). Rat Rods are also sometimes called Custom cars, Kustoms, Leadsleds or Sleds. Most Rat Rods were usually not originally high performance vehicles, but usually a large 2-door sedan with a chopped down roofline, lowered suspension, and most of the trim work removed. They often sport a mixed parts from other cars, i.e. its not uncommon to see a Mercury running a Chevy motor with Dodge rear end."

You know how some cars have curb feelers? Instead of that, make a (retractable) spike strip that lays on the ground by your car. anyone who comes so clese as to hit the mirror will run over this strip and lose their tires. So that they don't know it was your car that just severely damaged their tires, it should be completely breakaway so when it imbeds int he tire it goes with the car. In fact a board with a few screws in it could do the trick placed near your car. The person(s) will be no doubt drunk which is why they can't stop hitting things, and this won't stop them, they'll drive4 home on the punctured tire. So all you have to do is puncture their tires a few times and they'll find a new route home.

If you are planning on using your jeep as the doner than it's free? Can't beat that! A new LS1 T56 is $2000 minus the bellhousing, but used or rebuilt they could go for much less. I would be surprised of that 15 didn't go to 18-22 avg in a Z with a 3.54 rear and .5 6th.

Sounds cool, but in my experiance (limited as it is) jeep is not known for great gas mileage. Of course jeeps are similar in shape to a certain masonary product which is used extensively in the construction of comercial buildings in the midwest. When I drove them, the 4.0L Grand Cherokee was a bog dog and the 5.3L wanted to jump when you touched the pedal. Although with the right gearing, the 4.0 was said to be a stump puller. I also heard that parts for the jeep are hard to get with limited aftermarket support, just check that out before the decision is made. But you know there was one other engine choice that fits perfectly in a Z and mates to the t56... What the heck was that... hmmm... great power, gobs of torque, stout too... superb efficiency... ah it'll come to me.?!

thefastestmofo2201? look out for thefastestmofo2202 for the next auction. The buyer got owned. Probably lost the $1000, dang.

The assclown shouldn't have been driving a car he has up for sale. What a dork. Nice one though.

I followed every peice of advise here except cutting the card up and sending it to them. The CC company has their thumbs up their a**es. I get a different person every time and every time they don't know who anyone else is and their manager/supervisor is not in. They haven't taken care of it. Today they told me it should be off my account "within 24 hours". I expect to call them again tomorrow, in 24 hours and one minute. I had to call the vendor again for the third time and they again said they'd credit me. Now I have to be sure I don't get two credits. It's getting worse, one of the people at the CC was so pissed at me they hung up on the vendor when we were all on the phone and I painstakingly tried to explain it again. I don't think all the people at the CC company are literate.

In May last year I got an unauthorized charge of around $40 to my VISA. The business in question double charged me for a tool I bought. So I call them up, work it out and .... never get credit for it. I basically forget about it till December when I recieve another tool! I think, what the heck is this a bomb? I throw caution to the wind and open it and it is a returned tool from another guy with christmas wrapping paper around it and is placed in another box from the company and sent to me. Now I'm a little perterbed because I remember they never credited me and now this? So I call them up and they say they will credit and gave me a code from ups to return. I remind them of the previous charge and they agree it needs to be credited. So on my next credit bill I see a credit from the business, AND ANOTHER CHARGE! So at this point they charged me three times and credited once for the same tool. At this point I go straight to the credit card company (VISA) and ask them to stop payment. They agree and I turn in the necessary paperwork and a letter stating the situation. I pay up my card and leave out the roughly $40. On my next statement, there's the $40 and a finance charge of ~$3. I call them again, explein everything again and they say it'll take 15 business days to remove the charge. I stop using the card and about 30 days later (in early February) I get the next bill. It's still there $40. So now I have to pay it to avoid a black mark on my credit and after three more conversations with VISA they still get confused, don't know what's going on, say it's going to take 15 business days to resolve. It seems they have a new method of avoiding to stop payment. (Remember if they stop payment, they lose 3% on the deal) 1. They tell you to wait 15 business days. 2. They make you explain it to a different person every time. 3. No one knows who any of the other people you talk to are and can't get you transferred to them. 4. Eventaully you have to pay and then they are confused that you have no outstanding charge on your card. (nothing to stop) 5. Finally they say that your must stop payment within 30 days, don't know who you talked to or if they even work there, have no record of any previuos transaction or conversation, even though I carefully wrote down the name and number of everyone I talked to and their supervisor's name, these names don't seem to exist past that conversation. Next step call the business again and ask for my money back, again.

That is about the sickest thing I've read in this forum, I'll no doubt have nightmares. *shudder*

LINCOLN 185 IS DEAD SEXAY~! I welded some 1/8 aluminum the other weekend, the trick is keep the amperage in check, and go for as much penetration as you can stand rather than letting it choose for you, I didn't quite understand why it was choosing to set the cleaning so high. Try it yoursef if you must, I'm glad it's manually adjustable though. Then I forgot to turn it back to DC- for a steel wire rack and it worked so well I didn't notice till I was through 3 tack welds. I also could not tell the difference in weldability between pure tungsten and 2% thoriated. Wait till you get tired and forget to sand off the scale and paint, it'll weld right through it, although I know it's not good practice. I did some penetration and strength checks and it was perfect. It tends to bring contaminants to the surface. Definately the right tool for the job. I recommend the thump amptrol, that way you can weld on your back under your car without any trouble at all. Also, I go full Argon for everything and had no issues. Stainless was actually easier to weld than mild steel and welding high strength steel was a breeze too, although you no doubt lose all your strength at the weld so joint design is very important unless you re-heat treat properly. Congrats! I wouldn't give mine up for anything!!!

They'd get a lot more fish if they spelled everything correctly and had proper punctuation. But then again, if the victims are gullible enough to believe it they are probably also just the right type of individual to take the next step. (nearly illiterate, uneducated, working poor)

My 1990 F150 had it, so did my brother's 1987 F150. It's nice, had the 5 speed. It was reasonable even with 285 75 R16's. when I first bought my Z I still had this truck. I looked at the Truck, looked at the Z, looked at the engine bay of the truck, then the Z, measured the engine, then the Z... It looked like the intake would be sticking out the hood a few inches if the engine sat on the ground. But with side carbs that intake would be gone. Why would they wrap the intake over the valve cover??? WHY? I could have had a perfect engine 90k for basically the lost income of $1800 (what I sold the truck for). Well some latino gentelman and his family really liked it anyway. It only ever had one problem, the igniter failed when the radiator hose sprung a leak and sprayed an exact stream of fluid right on the dist and blew it, $50 and I got a whole new dist from Kragen. I'd say you'd do well to have it in the Z if you could fit it.

which is why it sold for 76.76 But worth every penny! Now put some elbow grease into it and send us a shot with that gleaming polished intake under the hood of your Z with trails of smoke coming from the back tires. Just kidding! Awsome find.