dr_hunt

They wouldn't be asking if the owner didn't already have the mineral rights. Their land man already researched that. Exploration and production are two separate things. Royalties of 5 to 7 percent are about the norm. Damage to the surface is typically a fixed sum per acre. You can make them restore and reseed although you will have a capped well there if they find nothing. If they hit shallow water you can have them P&A below the water zone and you could possibly use it as a water well. You'd have to see a sample contract first to see what all they are offering, then go from there.

Very nice Mike, very nice.

Ask hs30-h, his name is Alan, he is a wealth of correct information on the history of z cars.

check out x64v

Just don't piss Paul or Ron off. Muhahahahahahahaha! Those pesky invisible cloaking klingons

Damn, thats funny right there, I don't care who you are! :lmao:

Wow, just noticed your signature. You some kind of serial killer? Love the bra size, you must be like cozy z cole. :lmao:

He has little blue pills for that.

Probably a good idea, just run it. I built a 4g63 for a friend, made 600fwhp+, limited by the intercooler . The4g63 is a nice motor but I think it has longetivity issues at mod to high HP levels (350+hp). IMO just a nice 350 to 400 hp sbc would make you smile everyday.

We are getting new hardware, through donations to hybridz. So if you haven't donated to hybridz then don't complain!! It's really that simple, until you all help fund this site then I don't really like hearing what you want, like and dislike about it. That may seem alittle rough but look where you are when your complaining and look at the bold blue names and/or the yellow bar underneath those names. Bold blue names are those that help keep this place running, the rest of you enjoy our donations and SuperDans time and money as well. Hardly seems fair to me to have to listen to your complaints when you haven't donated. So, if you post a complaint about hardware or software issues and you haven't donated, then do so!

Yeah, but I remember you changing trannies at a SEZ event too! In the dark to boot, the night before the race!!!! :hail:

Depending upon the environment, you may have developed rust pitting in the cylinders during the long sleep period. IMO nothing is going to help ring end gap or ring seal except a proper build. Just because it was built doesn't mean it was done correctly IMO.

Grasshopper, you know not what you ask. You might try reading this; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114798 And this; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=105513 and this; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103512 Then use this

Your parents and I never thought you'd live this long. :lmao: Have a great one!!!!

That is combustion gasses that are getting past the rings, indicative of poor ring seal, excessive ring gap or a combination of both.

Just goes to show you that you have to be careful what you ask for, as you might get it! :lmao:

The issue with the radar detector sounds like a ground issue IMHO. You may have multiple issues.

To hell with the shifter, get a new woman!

There is more advantage of TT'ing a larger bore over a small bore, namely F=Pressure x Area. If your going to go the expense of TT then by all means use a 350 block, you'll get more out of it. Besides there's little chance a 2 bolt block will handle 700 to 1000hp.

nice!

They run dry sump engines, yates is referring to dry sump systems. They run 700 to 800hp and are running 70 to 80psi hot oil pressure if you information is correct. A hot street motor making 500hp would then need 50psi hot oil pressure, not going to get that with a stock pump and the kind of bearing clearances necessary to make that live. On dry sump late model and sprint motors I always adjust the pressue to 80psi hot, which is easy to adjust on dry sump systems. Wet sump is a different story, shimming the pressure spring or changing springs is necessary which requires pan removal and sometimes engine removal to remove the pan. Oil volume through a bearing clearance at a given pressure is x, that about doubles with every .001 additional clearance. So if you are running .0015 main and rod bearing clearance a stock pump is fine for 40psi. If your running .0025 main and rod bearing clearance, then it won't work very long, you need almost 2x, and your max oil pressure will be lucky to hit 35psi. You can't just say stock pumps are great for stock or mild motors, stock pumps are fine for tight clearance (.00125 - .0015) engines at mild HP levels. Anything else (HP or clearance) requires more volume and pressure IMO, although they go hand in hand. If you take your crank to joe blow crank grinder and he always grinds them on the loose side so he doesn't have comebacks, your going to have low oil pressure with a stock pump I don't care how much HP it puts out. In a wet sump system pressure is governed by bearing clearance and pump displacement volume and pressure spring. If the displacement volume is stock and the bearing clearance loose, you will never achieve the pressure spring relief valve to open IMO. If you have a HV displacemet volume and tight clearance, then the pressure spring relief valve will be open pumping oil back into the pan and costing you HP and heating the oil IMO. IMO the proper statement of oil pump selection should be based on bearing clearances and actually checking them on assembly of the engine. It's absolutely necessary IMO to dictate bearing clearance to the machine shop prior to machine work being performed. Oil pump selection is then based on proper oil system (pan, pickup, pump) parameters, engine HP and rpm. Oil selection also plays a big part of things. IMO a 5w30 oil lubricates better and has less entrained air in an oil system than heavier oils. My preference though and therefore my opinion.

Nice heads

Wow, it takes alot of man to admit that you made a mistake to the rest of the world. Hats off to you.

I may be wrong, but when you drop the clutch in 5th gear, that shock load would be significantly higher. IMO I don't really see a better fix than going with the straight cut gear set. OR you can have the groove machined like __ at the back which helps clip retention. Any qualified machinist could do that for you for about $50 IMO.

Man what a complicated calculation. I'll take a stab at it, and in no way should you assume that I'm correct. Assuming you can get 400lb ft to that driven gear, the coeffcient of dynamic friction between the gears is unknown probably negligible, the angle of gear cut is unknown, but the resulting component force is three fold. One force is going to try to separate the two shafts perpindicular to the shaft axis, one is going to try to force the 5th gear rearward on it's shaft and the remainder is transferred to the output shaft. Just a guess, but with a 30 degree gear angle your going to get approximately 60 to 70 lb-ft force acting rearward on the gear. With straight cut gears that goes to zero.