TheNeedForZ

!!!!!! I can't hardly belive that's a car's engine, it looks huge, more like a boat engine. The intake and the base make the engine look a lot bigger.

Does the valve cover on the above picture say "Lamborghini"?

The Weber **** is worth some money I bet. It is such a powerful mod, the name itself is forbidden. You think it means "carb" but that's what they want you to think, actually, it is the ****.

GrayZee, What are the minor modifications? I need to know this too...Thanks

Nothing needs to be done to make them fit. The Z31 ECU has the same plug pattern as the 280ZXT ECU. MAF and AFM also share the same plug IIRC. The pattern on my Maxima ECU is also the same.

Search for Z31(first generation 300ZX) Turbo ECU in the forum. Apparently, only ECUs from a certain year of 300ZXT will work. But you still need to replace AFM with MAF, and I think you also need to use a different type of O2 sensor if you want to use Z31 ECU. If you think it's bothersome then you should just find a 280ZXT ecu. The main benefit of 300ZXT ECU is the "potential" to be reprogrammed and ability to precess data in finer increments(256bit). You should post in the classifieds, I bet you'll get an 280ZXT ECU and harness quick. I am going to use a 1988 Maxima ECU from the j/y, but that requires removing the chip and reprogramming/tuning.

Congrats! I had to learn how to drive a stick from the internet.

Too bad, the only turbo engine(450$) is sold.

Actually I don't know why that car doesn't have the pillar emblem. On all the series 1 that I have seen, they all have the pillar emblems(240z instead of the Z badge)

The only cheap route is to find one, locally or get a parts car(Yes, it could be cheaper to actually get a parts car). Buy it from a Z enthusiast who want to get rid of it. If you buy it from a parts dealer/parts collector of any sort it will be expensive because the common goal of the dealers is to make a profit, not to clean out their garages. When I was searching for my L28ET, I contacted two guys : a local parts dealer, and a gentleman on the other side of the continent(Toronto). The dealer wants 2000$CDN for the whole thing(long block, harness, ECU) The Z guy in Toronto wants 700$CDN for the whole thing and gives me extras(volvo intercooler, j-pipe, clutch, starter, alternator. Naturally, I bought it from the Z guy. After shipping(crate,freight,truck) across the continent, the total cost comes to 1345$CDN, still beats the parts guy's price. Is it cheaper to get a parts car? YES!!! At that time there was a guy who's trying to get rid of his beater 81ZXT that starts and drives. He only wants 450$CDN but he's on an island so I never bothered. I didn't know the shipping across the continent is so expensive....otherwise I would have actually bought the car on the island, drive it home and pull the engine myself. Total cost would estimate at 650$ plus some hard work. Heck, I could sell off some parts on the beater to cut costs. Dealer : 2000$cdn plus shipping Z guy from across the continent : 1345$cdn all included Local parts car : 450$cdn plus travelling costs and insurance(+200$cdn),can sell parts to reduce costs(-100$cdn). Parts car the most expensive route? Not really.

Answer to 2 : Not just differential you have to worry about; Some need a larger transmission tunnel to fit your custom trans. Answer to 6 : two horizontal vents on the hatch. They are positioned lower than the glass; one side each(left and right). http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-Z-Series-240Z-1971-Datsun-Nissan-240Z-series-1-Very-Nice-CA-classic_W0QQitemZ4590459287QQcategoryZ6187QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem last row of the pictures, middle of the row, you see a picture of the rear of the 240Z with the hatch? The two black slits under the hatch glass...that's what I am talking about.

Neat little trick isn't it? http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=30F09882-95D9-4096-A44D-5781E3DEF90D&p=14

heh. http://videos.streetfire.net/Player.aspx?fileid=99CAD0F9-0EB8-4771-B401-3325FD499ED4&p=7

*sigh*....we need to cut open an N42 and and an F54 block to settle this once and for all. I went back to check the "how to modify" book and found something else : according to the "how to modify..." book, there are ***TWO*** types of turbo block. "All L-series engines share the same basic block design except for that used in the 280ZX turbo. The ***FIRST*** L28 Turbo blocks have the front three and rear three cylinders Siamesed. Webs are cast between cylinders 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 5 and 6. Although this improved block rigidity, it was thought that the webs inhibited coolant flow around the Siamesed cylinders. To improve coolant circulation, a casting change was made. On the L28 Turbo block 11010-P9080, introduced in the 280ZX Turbo in December, 1980, and non-turbo L28s in July 1981, ***SLOTS*** were put in the Siamesed cores to provide coolant passages between cylinders. Curiously enough, there were no incidents of piston-bore scuffing with the earlier L28 unslotted Siamesed blocks which would have indicated the need to use the later block for racing. However, the turbo block was used exclusively on Don Devendorf's Electramotive 600HP 280ZX Turbo L28. It was also used in Bob Sharp Racing 280ZX Turbo." Is it possible that the "first turbo blocks" were actually N42 blocks? The book never used any block codes. Is it possible that the F54 blocks that we know as "turbo blocks", are in fact, later turbo blocks with extra "slots" in the webs? If what the book said and what 1 fast z said are both true, then we can establish the following : 1. N42 blocks are siamesed throughout the length of the cylinder cores. 2. The earliest (prior to dec/80. But we know ZX Turbo was introduced in 81 therefore 'turbo blocks prior to dec/80' may sound like a paradox) turbo blocks might have been N42 blocks. 3. Turbo blocks after dec/80 (could be all the F54 out there?11010-P9080) do not have any "extra webs" but rather "extra slots" in the webs. What are the number, shape and location of the slots? Book never said anything. 4. If the earlier turbo blocks are indeed N42 blocks, then you can replace F54 with N42 without causing piston-bore scuffing at stock specs. Whether the N42 block will have problem at hi-performance spec is not known. 5. Don Devendorf and Bob Sharp Racing used F54 blocks for their racing. In Devendorf's case, the block supported 600hp without problem. Of course that doesn't mean a stock F54 bottom end can support 600hp.

1 fast z, Great info and I stand corrected. If what you said is true then it is something every Z guy should know. One of the great myths about L series block is cleared up. I guess "extra web" does not equal to "extra metal" as most of the info out there claims. Thanks again for the info.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-G-T-1-Porsche-1999-PORSCHE-GT-1-Very-rear-Collector-Car_W0QQitemZ4588477442QQcategoryZ6058QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Is this a real GT1? The whole plastic look and crummy paint pattern make it look like a kit car. The car is one of my favorite in Project Gotham Racing 2...stupid fast!

Mack, I've read differently: "All L-series engines share the same basic block design except for that used in the 280ZX turbo. The first L28 Turbo blocks have the front three and rear three cylinders Siamesed. Webs are cast between cylinders 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 5 and 6. Although this improved block rigidity, it was thought that the webs inhibited coolant flow around the Siamesed cylinders." -How to modify your Nissan & Datsun OHC engine-

F54 is commonly called the "turbo block" It is the engine block of 280ZX turbo. What makes it different is the extra webs cast between cylinders (1-2,2-3 and 4-5,5-6) to make the block stronger. Some experts actaully encourage using regular blocks without the webs because the webs make cylinder distortion uneven(out of round).

How to rebuild : http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turborebuild.html The article is about a turbo from a car different than Z's so the size of sockets and nuts, etc may differ. Sadly no pictures.

Wow that guy is definitely a lunatic, quite a vulnerable one too. If I were you, I would just walk into a police station and tell them about the situation; tell the police how he is always following, expecially how he always know where you guys are. Of course there is nothing sufficient right now to put this crazy dude away, however, if the police know about your case then at least you'll know what they can do for you, and what you can do. The fact that the authorities know about your case alone is a good deterant to the bad guy. So once you reported to police, let the crazy dude know that you have already reported. This way, you kill his intention to do harm before he even has the intention. Bottom line is, you should let someone else know besides you and the girlfriend. I am not talking about us, but your close friend or family. Should anything happen to you, someone knows what could have happened and the police will know who the suspect is. It can save lives. For insurance, you can always get pepper spray for the lady, she'll appreciate it when you are not around.

What happened?

Right up there with the fake turbo whistle noise exhaust pipe mod.

Only get turboes that came with a picture of the compressor wheels. You get to see the condition of the wheel and perhaps the housing. If they only give you a picture of the turbo taken from 5 ft away then forget about that. Buy from "dealers" with good rating that constantly sells turbos. Not from some parts guy that is trying to make a buck getting rid of a piece of junk. Even if you bought a turbo with good wheels but has lot of shaft play, a basic rebuild kit is around 45$ and a complete rebuild kit 75$ like clifton said.

4.5" is 114.3mm, none of any L series rods is that short, your given measurements look weird. 240Z rods are 5.240" or 133mm, c-to-c.

Silent, Perhaps you misread the texts, see jmortensen's post above for details. I got that 4~6% figure from the same book you were referring to.