TheNeedForZ

heh, and it's developed by "Rice" University.

Thanks for the info dudes. I've done some internet searching. Most of the hits are shops advertising their service. Some information about balancing the rods,pistons and that's it, nothing about crank balancing, no explaination to how the balancing machine works. But anyway, I've found something interesting : I read about "overbalance" and "underbalance" in one of the pages. It is said an overbalanced assembly reduces vibration at high rpm but increases it at low rpm. Underbalanced assembly does the opposite. I thought a perfectly balanced assembly will have the least vibration thruout the range but I guess I knew too little. So why do over/underbalance affect vibration at different rpm?

Looks very nice and clean, good work!

Hi, all. I am looking for instructions on the process of balancing an engine's rotating assembly(L28E, L28ET or any other type). Some books talk about this but they only inform the readers about this process without giving any real instructions. Since the process is uaually very long and labour intensive(I ASSUME it's very expensive to have a machine shop do this), I would like to be able to do this at home if possible. I seem to like this type of work (shaving metal and measuring them), even though I get dog-tired afterwards. I just finished polishing 1 L24 rod with my dremel. I did it as per "race rod prep" instructions in the "how to modify your datsun..." book. Man I love the new appearance of the rod compared to stock. This type of qualitative work is easy but now I want to take a step up and do actual balancing. Here is the list of tools I have : 3-in-1 machine (lathe-mill-drill, plus some machining tools and measuring devices) Hand-held Dremel rotary tool Electronic balance (one of my ammo-reloading equipment, accurate to +/- 0.1 grain, can convert between grain and gram) Plus typical garage/household tools (big hammer, bench vise, files, angle grinder, .45 handgun, computer with internet connection, membership in a forum called HybridZ.org...) Info or links are all appreciated.

Make some thick soap fluid, brush on suspected areas and then wait to see if it bubbles.

Could it be time compressed? I've seen a video of a Subaru WRX that is compressed to look fast like that and sounds similar too.

Just read this post after being away from HybridZ for 2 weeks. This is very interesting. First thing I thought "this engine will never work because the chamber will never seal." then I thought perhaps the top and bottom of the "free floating chamber divider" can each use 2 pieces of thin free floating metal plate to seal the chamber. The idea is simply borrowed from piston rings in the conventional engine. The main problem in making this in a small shop is the cam surface. You need a special setup or CNC to grind the sin curve. Also I don't think the "volume efficiency" is "volumetric efficiency." "volume efficiency" probably means the size of engine relative to output. This thing is definitely interesting.

Any Update? Shuttle launched safely?

zero bids, haha. spray the filter with silver metallic paint for that authentic intercooler l@@k(10 hp extra)

somebody DO IT. 45$(Canadian dollars?!?!), it's going to be a record.

Yeah, I've heard they flow just as well as the square port head. The liners help reduce emission too. You are building a drag car any way so no emission concerns.

yeah I read kennysgreen280zt's post and realized it's a better solution. A milling machine is more common. It removes materials way faster than the grinder I mentioned, but you have to finish the surface because the milling machine don't produce a shiny surface like the grinder does.

I don't know how it's called but there is a tool in machine shop that grinds flat surfaces. It's not a hand tool but sort of like a table. The thing to be grinded is magnetically mounted on a sliding table. The table controls movement in X,Y axis. The grinder controls the Z axis(vertical) I operated one such machine when I visited a factory in China. It can grind a beautifully flat surface.

There's a guy registered as "crowbar" on this forum. He has zero post count but he posted in the classifieds. I suggest avoid dealing with this guy. He jacked up the price, provided no help, and is difficult to work with. A friggin waste of time. here's our email correspondance. Some of this is from my memory, but as shown, he only sends one liner emails : me : hi, I saw your ad on hybridZ.org I am interested in the 300ZX MAF, do you still have them? him : yes me : ok I would like to buy one. I can do money order that's pretty much it. Shipping goes to Richmond, BC, Canada, V6X 3G6 (note at this point I already acknowledged him that I live in Canada) him : western union? me : never used it. him : know anyone in US? me : no, why? don't like money order? him : had lots of trouble with international MO me : Well I could give the western union thing a try. How do I send you the payment thru WU? him : yeah go to western union office. me : go to western union office and? him : (reply with web address of western union website, says nothing else. I went to the site, nothing helpful is there.) me : Sir, I really can't read your mind. Please elaborte. What's the purpose of sending me the website? Are you trying to teach me how it works? or are you trying to tell me how to find the nearest WU office? Suppose I walk into a WU office, what information do I give them besides the payment? With so little information in our correspondence, we will keep emailing back and forth for a long time. I have to ask a lot of questions. Pretty soon you'll start to think I am bugging you on purpose. So please give me the total price, information needed to send the payment at WU. (then I included my name/full address) him : 100$US(then includes his name/address) me : what do I get for 100$US? In the ad you said 50$. The extra 50$ is shipping? (he is in Colorado, shipping to western Canada costs 50$? BS!) him : I don't ship to canada. (he already knows I am from Canada. I said that twice in my previous emails already) That's the end of it. Then I deleted all his emails and comes here to rant. Sorry about the rant but I just need to say it.

Talk about being specific in the answer! Thanks for the info Bernardd. I suppose I should use the 88~89 ECU so I have the possibility to use a bigger turbo later on.

Hi again I approached someone and asked about his 87 300ZXT-m/t ECU for sale, here's what he said: "Hi , well I popped the cover off & the top board & found the Hitachi chip HD46510P . It is rectangular not square. When I talked to GrayZee & Bernard a few months ago about reprogramming this ECU , they said they could do it. I just gave them the numbers off the top on the ECU A18-680 M90 if that helps. They also said I could also run it the way it is stock with a turbo but it would be better to change out the chip . I looked at the picture of which chip to look at on your Maxima MAF & the one that is circled on the picture is a 28 pin I counted 14 pins on each side but it still looks rectangular but not as long. there is a number that is written on top of the chip M256 DF M5 . Let me know what you think" So his 87 300ZXT-m/t ECU has 28 pins but the 46510 chip is not square According to those who know the Z31 ecu well : "A ecu that is tuneable should have a 28 pin eprom chip on the mainboard" "...you will find a chip with the label 46510 and it should be square. If it's rectangular then don't bother with it" So here I have a 87 300ZXT-m/t ECU that has 28 pins(supposedly reprogrammable) but with a non-square 46510 chip(supposedly to be avoided) What do you guys think? Also by the picure above, the one circled is the computer chip but which one is the 46510 chip? Thanks

Thanks for the info!

Looks like a race car in legend class. Every car in the legend class looks like that.

haha

You can keep a jar in the kitchen, put all your loose change in there and call it "The WHEEEE~~~ Foundation."

Thanks for the good info. Looks like the authentic 300ZX MAF is the better choice since it's bigger. But for now I'll keep the option for maxima MAF open IF I can find a tunable ECU. Back to ECU questions : I was wondering if I can use N/A Z31 ECU instead of Turbo Z31 ECU? I have located a N/A ECU but I will need to find out what year.

Is it absolutely necessary to use a turbo Z31 ECU? All I can find is a N/A Z31 ECU. Thanks

Thanks. I can get a flange adapter so it will have both ends to fit the pipes.

What is the diameter of L28ET AFM or 300ZX MAF? I need to know this to determine whether to get the maxima MAF or not. If the maxima MAF is close in size then I'll get it from the j/y.

Ok I am going to be the first to ask. What happened to the white car with V8? And what are you going to do with the grey one? Smog laws suck, I agree.