BluDestiny

Meh its sorta you're choice. Both are very similar, and can make the same amount of power. Sr20's can make 350+ on stock internals and be reliable while for a KA that's pushing it. Then again it all depends on your tune. Oil pan on a KA is a pain since it's one piece while the SR is 2 piece. Another bit of info, the SR is much lighter than the KA which was my deciding factor. As for the price, well you need to look for deals. for me it was easier to buy a car with the SR running and then part the car out. At this point I have paid $300 for my SR, and it still has an aftermarket intake and exhaust that I'm reusing. I also have a KA in my 240sx that I will probably try and do a minimal turbo setup on. but that won't happen for a while. My best advice for you is do more reading, and factor in how available both motors are to you. Since I had to start from scratch, it was fairly easy to pick one, but if I just had a KA laying around then I'd use that. I also do a lot of reading on Zilvia, nicoclub, and 240sxforums

Psh i got them for $60 shipped off a 280zx. Same as 280z injectors PM me

Pm braap, I believe him or superdan do the coding/updates (could be completely wrong). Having the ability to choose what size you want to view would be way better in my opinion.

The actual dash is different around the center heater control area. They are two different styles.

no and because it takes forever to load. Ratsun is the way you want it, and sometimes when people upload the pics they shoot offscreen or the thread takes forever to load.

My thoughts exactly. There aren't a lot of girls to begine with at my school, and our mechanical engineering department is relatively new. We have more aerospace engineers. That's probably why it's been disbanded, not enough females

Damn, my school only had a womens baja team. No idea why they didn't have a coed/mens. Then again I go to a small school. Embry Riddle in Daytona Beach.

Any updates?

Get a wideband, that is the first step to tuning and would be used if you upgraded the ECU anyway. It will also tell you if you are dumping massive amounts of fuel into your cylinders which could be harming your engine and why you aren't making power.

I feel like people are too cheap for that. lol. Personally I'd rather do it myself, because I know I cana and it will probably be cheaper.

This is a 30+ year old car that had some of the first EFI computers. There is no such thing as plug in play. If you want a shop to do this, expect to pay around $1500-$2000 You would need to wire everything and get new sensors for megasquirt, but honeslty there aren't many things to wire.

what kind of crappy storage place is that? have them pay for your stuff

Max hp was 165 at right around 5700rpm, and Max tourqe was 180 at about 4000rpm I've seen a stroker pull 240 to the rear wheels with a mirror setup to what you have but with megasquirt. You have the components, but not the management.

That's why it's not making power, you have stock efi. I would get a wideband with that setup.....and a way way better engine management. As for the bench racing comment, I've seen a dual SU car pull 192rwhp with a great port, needle setup, and large cam. And that was on an L28 bottom. Also the port means nothing if your manifolds aren't port matched with it.

That's pretty underpowered unless there is some correction factor....how much did you pay for the motor? Also what are you using for fuel management?

link?

If the hydro lifters are good it's worth about $150. If they are bad then like $60 since it needs to be swapped out with solid lifters

I don't think you have that aggressive of a cam. it idles too smoothly. I had a stage 4 cam kit from MSA (the one with the specs you described) and it idled like a muscle car. I had triple weber 40's and a 6-1 header with a 3" exhaust to some no name super turbo muffler. http://s995.photobucket.com/user/Richard316/media/My%20260Z/PICT0034.mp4.html If you want to keep it fairly streetable you should get the 40's.

You have been dropping some serious money into this project lol.

KA's are still heavy. and the difference in weight honestly would be made up by the L28 hp STOCK FOR STOCK. I believe an L28 with carbs and headers came in at jsut under 400, I can't imagine there being more than a 70lbs difference. I don't know what makes you think you have to weait for a month to get any sesnors either, most it took me is a few days wait at autozone to get any sensor. Modified is a whole different story, but I can't even understand how you think there is a lack of aftermarket for the L28. You don't need a tubular manifold for an L, you don't need an aftermarket intake for an L. Everythign else (ECU, Turbo, clutch, flywheel) can be found aftermarket. If you want to blow money on your single slammer then go for it. Go buy a CX racing manifold and compain when it cracks, I know the L turbo mani won't. and it cost less. and can make the same amount of power. At least go with a dual cam, you'll get laughed at less. both here and on ratsun.

Quality and the brand. Eithre way you shouldn't be attaching a harness to the strut tower bar. It would be safer to use the strut tower bolts as attachment points. I'm sure there is a thread on it somewhere. And you're right, the one I saw on CL was very similar in color, and had some wierd ass spider wheels that looked almost the same.

The build thread for the 240z or the 370z?

You know those are a tad rare right?

I think I've seen this car on craigslist

Why the KA pistons and L24 rods? You can probably get similar hp from L28 pistons bored out 1mm and a shaved p90