BluDestiny

Not worth that much, I'd say $4-5k if nothing on the inside looks like crap and it runs good with no ghetto repairs. A body shop can charge anywhere from a few hundred to a thousand for a job like that. Depends how much its actually spread and if it messed up any of the body lines and stuff.

Those equips look sexy

Tony, you should add american psycho to that list also.

Toyo Proxes R888. Things hook like crazy. With a 245 wide tire it'll be hard to find anything. Your other choice is the nitto NT555R which is again another streetable track tire. As for the Fuzions, they're crap. They perform more like an all season performance tire and they are labeled as a summer performance tire. They are cheap, I'll give em that.

Nooooo not emusa. One of my friends literally had a front shock leaking when he got it. You can find quality used coilovers for cheap (sub $800). I even sold a set of stance's that came off my parts car for $700.

How did you confirm it's an autech?

Any updates?

That looks like a regular lip with a custom splitter that is 1 inch lower. My friend made one of those and used some gardening trim and rivets to fill in the gap. Not hard, just time consuming.

I'm actually fit it into my schedule to take an upper level matlab course my lest semester to help with my senior design project and just for the future in general As for the engineering remark, those were my thoughts as well. It's not just the old members either, there are quite a few college guys here also (you and I and calpoly Z)

Finally got the replacement alternator after 5 days of waiting and got it in in 30min. Feels good to drive my car again. Also tried to test fit my new wheels on the front as well, but the tire is a little too big and hits the perch. Guess I'll just have to burn them off 1 pair at a time in the rear.

It does look like it will contact in turns on the front lip. Is this without a spacer? or do you need a spacer?

So if I understand this is going into the 280z, and the 240z is a parts car correct? The 280z efi will not be happy with a too big of a cam, so that is your biggest limitation. Now if you go with carbs you can definitely get the sound you want.

Are those two piece adapters? How do those work? Also can't tell, but did you use rtv on your oil pan? It helps a ton when you tighten it down. Did you already weld the -10 fitting on? You're probably going to need a 45* off it and then hope you don't get any binding. Ideally you should have run the -10 in the same spot (or close) as the -6 and run a 45* right off it straight up to the turbo drain. Double check the fuel pressure regulator. You could have a leaking diaphragm which what happened to me. Ran rich as hell and hardly idled for a few seconds. Diaphragm was ripped in my FPR and it was dumping fuel through the vacuum line to the manifold.

This is a fairly common problem. It's the actual stalk if I recall, and I believe it can be taken apart and fixed

That's a clean running engine

That's not how it works, the pressure is not at the inlet of the compressor. It's at the outlet. All the pressure built is between the outlet and the TB. That pressure needs to be vented asap after the TB slams shut, which is why the bov normally goes as close as possible to the TB. The rest didn't make sense to me. When you say air coming in, where is it "coming in" to?

We use CATIA at my school. Honestly most of our simulations are run off MATLAB.

if you're not a mechanic how will you be able to fix it. It could be your float, it could be your fuel pressure regulator, it could be a lot of things. You should find someone knowledgeable close to you to help figure it out.

Most likely yes. I blew my heater hose there and it leaked everywhere

I'm in a similar boat, about ot finish up my undergrad in electrical engineering at 23 and possibly about to start my masters (still not sure/ cost too much). I don't necessarily work at a garage, but I sorta know enough. When I go to the garage I basically talk crap with th emechanics. They are two older guys, who were both master techs for nissan in the early 80's till 96. It started with a simple checkup on my car to see if they knew all the quirks. Lo and behold Sil, (one of the mechanics) pulled out a wooden timing chain chalk. I bring my car to them to trouble shoot small things, he started getting me parts for his price from advance. Now I can come over and pretty much operate the lift and tire machine myself if they have space and business is slow. It takes time. But if you want a fast track then you can apply for jiffy lube or some oil change only place. I know a lot of people that started off like that, and they don't make the best mechanics. As for the crappy engineering job market, that's life. I hear its a little better for EE. I have a friend who works at lockheed here in orlando so that will be my first avenue. This summer I'm actually working on a nano sat project for my school which will be the biggest project I will work on here at school. Projects are what companies look at. I'm also with you on the people getting hired. I know some a**hat cheaters that got picked and feel absolutely sorry for the companies. I just hope that over time they get weeded out. As for your comment to CAD work all day, that what most of my friend in the business do. They start off small, working in groups of similar ages people who are under the guidance of a master engineer. I know several of my friend who were AE are no working in the petroluem engineering field. ym friend at lockheed is actually doing failure rate testing for missle electronics, so just cause you are AE doesn't mean you will work on planes. edit: I should probably state that my area of focus in avionics. which is why I'm throwing out a bunch of aerospace companies. What I am curious about is if I can get an internship in the automotive field. I'd love to work for a car company.

So is the battery holding a charge? unless you put the connections the wrong way it shouldn't have affected anything. I was stupid once and connected a ground where I shouldn't have and it ended up burning the wire up, but it still worked.

3.9 R200 are not too hard to get. They came in manual 280zx 2+2's

It should be close to where the rubber line going from the firewall hardline connects to the slave cylinder on the passenger side of the tranny.

Learned all this stuff in my system engineering class. It's sorta made my day to see it pop up on hybridz.

check zilvia.net and Craigslist. I just saw a kaaz 1.5 way installed with a 4.36 ring gear for $700 on my local Craigslist.