BluDestiny

tilted out with positive camber or negative camber? Also are your front fenders rolled? That may be a temporary solution

Honestly 15x7 is good too. It'd be nice with a 15x8 though. More tires looks better in my opinion. Anyway here is my old 260z with 15x7 0 offset wheels and 205/50/15. Only suspension was tokico illuminas and tokico springs Doesn't look that bad in my opinion

There is a thread dedicated to the shakotans. As for the other 2 I'm sure someone is running them in the wheel pictures thread. As for PredatorZ's statement, the ZX has much more space in the wheel wells than an S30. You can fit 11" wide rims in the rear under stock metal. No s30 can do that.

Those look like the pair of side mirrors you can get at pep boys.

The fpr is vacuum controlled. There is a line goingfrom the top of the fpr to the intake. But the fpr shouldn't just block fuel. I think that your fuel lines may be clogged. Try taking your fuel rail off and blowing compressed air through it to clear it out. Do this to your fuel lines running under the car as well.

Upgrade the oil pump. I've heard that's the weak spot. That being said, I would probably do the water pump an timing kit( if it was high mileage). Other than that just basic tune-up items.

Much better.

Link?

Positive offset means they are further in, not out. Probably don't want those if the offset is that high. It will most likely rub without a 10-15mm spacer. Also that brand, Drag, is a cheaper brand. But if you like them, then I'm not one to knock.

Varrstoen, a few rota's, maybe the Enkei's. Just have a look around on the wheel thread

16x8 zero offset or 4.5" backspace and a 225/50/16 tire. That is stock tire diameter so the speedo will be the same. Diamond racing wheels are cheap, and heavy. I would honestly probably rather get XXR's then diamond strictly based off the weight in those sizes.

Sideways, my s13 came out at 2700lbs on a truck scale. My friends 280z came out at 2620lbs. My 260z came out at 2540lbs. All these cars had interior and ac and the 280 had a big ass bass in the trunk. On the other hand I've seen a 240z come out at 2300 with interior (no Ac). The 240z is the only s30 that is really lighter.

I'm using redline mt90. It's a bit harsh until it warms up.

yellow bottle? On the passanger side? is it copper? that's probably for the AC. download the Factory service manual from xenons130.com and find the vacuum line diagrams (easier said then done). Read it and follow your lines to make sure they are going to the correct places.

You answered two of the things to look for. fix the air leak, and get a fuel pressure gauge (cheap on from AutoZone for $10, inline) and see how much pressure your getting. I bet you dont have enough.

I was under the impression that they were megan ( I mean if megan is "modifying them" to fit out cars, then they are megan). I remember seeing a thread with one of them opened. I'm sure the valving is softer than the more basic megans, and the spring rates are a little softer. Doesn't mean they are perfect though.

I'll get back to you on size. I know I had to use a different belt(nothing for an L series would fit). Just need to check the length and width. As for your breakdown, working on a running, driving car is much more satisfying then working on a car that is on jackstands. I try to keep all my projects limited to a weekend AT MOST. Sure I have other forms of transportation, but driving my Z is a reward in itself. It keeps me motivated to keep making it better. If I had all the money I've ever spent on my Z, I'm sure I wouldn't have spent it in the way that I have (putting money into projects here and there). It would be a completely different car.

I use one belt. It is on my crank, alternator and water pump. I use my alternator to tension the belt. It's been running like that for 30k miles.

I'm assuming he has some square port headers that he wants to use. It is possible to run square port headers on a round exhaust port though.

That's a notch top. Not sure if s14 or s15 but the years are 95-01. The s14 years are 95-98. The big ident is the weird notch thing on the left of the valve cover.

E31, if its a solid base and has not been messed with and is uncracked, no broken studs etc, should go for $150 easy, and that is a low price. I know a store that is holding onto about 3 of them, and asking $300 a head. They know the price will just go up on them. As for upping the CR did you even open the link? You can get away with a certain amount before you need to use shims, but you would need to know the total head height to make sure you don't take too much off.

Did it not start again? or did you notice smoke or anything? have you taken the afm off to see if the turbo spins freely?

There is no real appreciable gain you can get from that engine without at least taking the head off and getting port work done. I would get mods that will support what your end goal is, so headers and a 2.5" exhaust would be a good place to start. I would hold off on the cam and fuel delivery until you get port work done. It would be a shame to spend $1500 on itb's and only gain 20hp because of the ports.

You say you have access to everything, but want to use square ports and carbs. That in itself is limiting. From this there are two roads you can go that will get you around that compression. N42 block (dished pistons) with a slightly shaved N42 head (small enough shave to not need shims) or F54 with flaptops and a shaved p90. Personally I'd go with a p90 since it has a better chamber design. I'd go off this website: http://datsunzgarage.com/p90/

Thanks, it keeps me busy and broke though hahaha. Anyway I washed it last night