BluDestiny

You could have also opted to ship it to Socal. There are a few local shops that have seen this and are willing to do it.

I'm thinking the oil out your downpipe could be from not a big enough oil return. That will blow your seal. Damn xnke beat me to it. No your turbo is probably fine if the car hasn't actually idled. As for the AFM it shouldn't cause the car to not run. It will run with a bad afm, just not run well. At least if it's anything like an NA afm

I would drive that in the zombie apocalypse. Without diamond plate fenders and metal window shields and some gun turrets

Do you mean taking a rolling shell and having it sandblasted and welding up holes/patching panels and paint? I'd say a minimum of 5k if you do all the working of tearing it apart and putting it together again. To be safe I'd say 10k, always double your best guess. I've gotten quotes for sandblasting full cars that are rolling shells (they put it on a rotisserie and take off most of the suspension then put most of it back together) for about 2k in Socal, then paint would be another $1500-2k. That's not including things like weatherstrip, little nuts and bolts, having everything replated or powdercoated and replacing nuts and bolts with matching sets (like a crazy Z addict would) and all the random expenses that projects normally have.

15x7 0 offset with a 205/50/15 tire. Suspension is just tokico illuminas shocks and tokico springs

Yeah that sounds like the heater core leaking, or the rubber hoses to it leaking. Get the FSM from xenons30.com and just search it for the heater core schematics

No because the Super afc can't make the ecu compensate that much and I don't think the afm signal would be the same. It runs on the principle of intercepting the Maf signal and changing that by a percentage and then sending that to the ecu so the ecu thinks it needs to use more gas to correct the "Maf" reading. At least that's how it's supposed to be used on a 240sx. Regardless you can tune out much more power from a standalone instead of a piggy back. My friends 240sx was making about 240whp with his ka24det on a safcII and when he went to an haltech he bumped up 30ish hp, both the hp and tq curves were smoother and it just overall felt more responsive and sounded healthier (those last two are opinions from him).

Are you planning on taking the rad support out and starting from scratch? That would allow for whatever you want and will be a vast Improvement over stock stiffness

There is no such thing as a piggy back for ECU's this old. Cheapest aftermarket ECU is megasquirt at about $500-600 if you do it yourself, and if you plan on having a tuning shop do this, it's going to cost somewhere around $2000

They look like centerlines. They may come in a 16, but I doubt 17.

The fuel pump should be close the the tank, and you will need to eventually redo all the fuel lines. They are too small for higher boost level. Was the donor z32 at 2+2?

Front strut tubes and brake calipers for the 510 guys, possible the hatch if its in really god condition. Same with the hood if it has the turbo scoop (just the scoops if the hood is trash) Depending on the interior, keep whatever looks good.

Post in the pallnet fuel rail thread

720 front diffs are 4.11, It was a direct bolt in on my 280zx. You just need to use your stub flanges (the 720 uses CV axles I believe).

Honestly if you are going with an aftermarket ecu then it shouldn't matter much. Just turbo the engine you have if it's in good running order.

Also a car will not run properly if it is just a chts problem. Normally when I am idling and I pull it, the car automatically dies.

I think he's saying that stock for stock to get them running, the SR will put more power down and reliably, which it will. If you put in a ka, then piece together a turbo kit, it will probably be more expensive.

Imagine a mass of compressed air travelling through the TB. Well when you let off the gas to shift, the TB closes and it needs to be redirected. the best case would have an exit right near the TB so it gets out quick. The way you have it set up is that all the air travels back through everything right up before the turbo. Generally the compressed air will cause the turbo to forcefully stop, which is harmful to life of the turbo.

well that was quick, or have you been running the silicone jpipe for a few weeks? Also the BOV should be right before the TB not right off the compressor. Could you get more pics of the hot pipe? I'm sorta getting how you ran it, but I want to know how you made it through the radiator support.

Well does that connetion run to the turnsignal/headlight combo switch? I bet it does First off, what year is this Z? and secondly do you know if anything in the electrical has been changed from stock (upgraded alternator)?

Some fitment for laughs, and for messing around up and down my block. Rims are 17x9 with effectively -3 offset and a 275/40/17 tire on them. Literally about an inch and a half of room to the coilover

That ZXR is pretty sweet. If he has the documentation to back it up it, and its as rust free as it looks, then its worth something at least.

Been busy with school and gathering parts: Also get distracted by my S13 sometimes. I've actually gathered parts for a full z32 brake/5 lug swap. Finally got everything I need for it, just need to get the stuff cleaned and powdercoated. I actually just picked up some rims for it with used Proxes RA1's, but since I'm still waiting I'm thinking about burning up the rubber on the ZX:

Lol at Jpipe made of silicone. Nice DP, what kind of turbo are you using? Turbo AFM will not work with an NA ecu. I would not do anything more than 10psi without some kind way to really tune the car, or even the stock turbo stuff. Do you have pics of your car? interior and exterior, action shots etc.

where was this when I was studying abroad in France last fall lol. Awesome idea