BluDestiny

There isn't a difference in the oil pump shafts, just the NA and turbo dizzy shafts

Finished up the Na to turbo swap. Runs and drives. Makes an awesome sound since I only have the downpipe on. Little things need to be fixed here and there.

OK it could be the sender, I'd change that first just because. If the problem persists I would then run thicker oil. I run 20w-50 dino oil.

Doubt it, although if you are super worried you can pop the oil pan off and jack the engine up and check. Would be a good time to regasket also. It was a bitch to swap oil pans fyi but is possible. What kind of oil do you use? and you never answered my question about age of your sending unit/engine. When I first got my ZX the enign had about 180-190k on it. Oil pressure sending unit worked. Well right around 200k it just stopped working. So they do go bad.

How old is the sending unit? Mine sucked, then I got a new one and its been so accurate its not even funny. I also use a turbo oil pump on my car since I figured more oil flow is better anyway. As for after laps, mine would dip for a min or two after along with my temp climbing a little. The readings would then stabilize after say 5 min, while waiting for the next lap.

Well messed with it today to actually properly sit the AFM and also found a piece of rubber I could cut down to fit around the throttle body for the Jpipe. First I cut out the bracket that hold the NA maf, Then sanded and painted over and it fits like a glove now. No vibration since the stock rubber boots absorb all of it. Don't know if you can tell, but in the last pic the afm is backwards. After I put it together it would idle, but just wouldn't rev up. As soon as I gassed it it would die. I spent about 2 hours trouble shooting, checking connections and adjusting the timing and idle. Finally when I was about to swap out my afm for my old one I noticed that mine was backwards. D'oh. Well it runs now, stumbles a bit and I attribute that to the lack of fuelling going on under boost. Next couple of steps are to get a boost gauge and wideband A/F gauge. I'll be ordering those tomorrow, as well as getting my exhaust attached. Gonna stick with 2.5" since it's what I have. pics will come once my exhaust is back on, along with a video. I have to say though, it sounds pretty mean with just the downpipe on.

What's your budget? I got myself a set of pretty decent coilovers for $500 total.

What size/offset are both rims?

hows this going for you?

Well this weekend I decided to throw on my stock turbo stuff just to see how it'll feel. It was one of those "I've had the parts forever and if I didn't at least try to use them I'd never know". Started with this, a nice healthy NA L28 that've I've put about 35k on since the rebuild, including several cross country trips. Runs fine, but is definitely starting to show wear and tear and some leaks. Had this on my shelf. I bought all these parts a little more than a year ago intending them to go on in summer. Well I got lazy and they I studied abroad in Europe last fall and spent a lot of money. Removal is the first step: took me about 1.5 hours to move the car into the garage, jack it up and remove the manifolds and entire exhaust. Not bad. Took it around the block once with just open headers and I'm pretty sure I pissed off my neighbors. Nice, clean, coated turbo mani, but I wanted more heat protection since I live in FL First mock up for a little motivation: Test fitting the N42 intake. As you all should know the PCV valve on the bottom of this intake is in the way of the turbo/jpipe coupling. So I did what a few memebrs here have done and fit a 90* bend and ran the PCV valve inline. Came out pretty good.. Then the most time consuming part, swapping the oil pan out. Literally took me about 4 hours to do including an hour to get the motor back in place. First step was to jack it up to get clearance. At the time I thought it would be a good idea to just unbolt the mount from the crossmember. Well this turned out to be impossible to get both the bolts back in properly and I gave up and unbolted one of the rubber insulators and set it back. Healthy looking engine. Healthy application of hi temp silicone to hopefully beat the leaks. The old gasket on the NA oilpan had cracked and was letting oil through towards the front timing cover: Final mockup: at this point I was tired and just shoved the AFM to turbo boot on and wedged it between the front swaybar and rad, I just wanted to start the engine. Topped the oil off, connected the few electrical components and the fuel lines. One thing I didn't show if the turbo injectors on the manifold. I had them sent to RC engineering and cleaned, which turned out good since one of them was only pushing like 180cc/min. After the cleaning they were all right at 270 though. Basically I had gotten everything prepped, I took the Jpipe, oil pan and manifold to get sandblasted and painted and the headers coated. I had the injectors clean and had all the gaskets ready. There wasn't much else I could prep without actually taking parts off the car. There are still a few things to be worked out, like the AFM boot. But the biggest thing I have to fix right now is the Jpipe to TB gasket. my Jpipe didn't come with one, so there is a massive gap and air leaks into the TB. Somehow the engine managed to idle at around 600rpm after some coaxing though. In the end this happened: I had to crank this thing like 15 times before it started because the oil pressure needed to build up and the fuel pressure had to build. My roommate was there watching with a fire extinguisher ready and when it started I just started yelling. It was a fantastic moment. As of now I'm using the NA ecu, dizzy and harness. Things I swapped in are the turbo injectors, oil pan and of course the turbo manifold, turbo and downpipe. This is a temporary setup which will last me about 3 months hopefully. Stock boost levels and hopefully nothing explodes.

Hmm you sound like what I'm about to do somewhere down the line. I just picked up a series 1 and the stalk controls are missing. Only thing that is powered by a switch is the headlights (no turn signals or running lights) and the brake lights of course. I'm planning on making as many things as needed run of a switch. Dash is gutted so I'm probably going to end up using some hair dryers for defrosters.

Rota grids look a lot better. so if you have the option of moving down to a 215 tire I'd do that. Where is it rubbing? you may be able to get away with a really good fender roll because they don't look that off.

S13 rear coilovers can be installed two ways. 1: keep them all s13 and line up one bolt and still another hole for the other bolt, since they only have two bolts. That's the easy way and the way most people do it. 2: Have a custom Top had made to fit the bottom profile of the S13 coilover (most have a rubber bushing, if it's monoball this will not work unless you spend more money) and to have the bolt pattern of the ZX. This is what I did. I brought the S13 coilover top hat, the ZX rear top hat, and a cylinder of aluminum and told my machinist I want the bottom of the S13, but the top of the ZX. 4 days and $200 later I had a pair of top hats. Obviously I gave him a few more measurements, but you get the idea.

The 240 kit won't work on a 280 because the differential (r180 vs r200) if different therfor the rear bar will be different. Fronts should be the same.

You make me want to buy this: http://daytona.craigslist.org/ctd/3608546571.html I'd rather have a 70's one though

The line is probably blocked up. It runs down along the floor and can easily just pool water and turn to sludge. I'd replace it since it's probably brittle anyway

hmm the enkei comps don't look half bad. I may invest in a set. I've been waiting for someone to post them up.

No they will not. You are connecting them to what is an on/off switch. Parking lights are the first notch on the stock control (basically everything but headlights), driving lights are with the headlights. At least that's what I've come to call them.

No, no other electrical affected it, and the amp meter in the car (if working/accurate) was rock steady. Have you measured your voltage under load/idle?

Don't buy the 260z, and how was the other one a bust? I did pick up the car in AZ. It was a series 1 240z, with a VIN in the 8000's I believe. Got it for $2500, and had the guy sign the title and drop it off at my Uncles where it will sit for a little longer. Little rust from the pics and from my uncles quick inspection, it does have a few minor dents, and it is completely stripped, (no interior and no behind the dash stuff). does come with a full set of autometer gauges, MSD 6A wired up, 5 speed and an L28/N42 engine combo with some Z therapy round top SU's. Engine is practically dialed in and "runs like a top" according to my uncle. Just all visual and comfort stuff I need to work on. Link to my photo bucket album: http://s995.beta.photobucket.com/user/Richard316/library/#/user/Richard316/library/Series%201%20240z?&_suid=13633749993500023252631419208858 My aunt has said several people have already offered to buy the car. Highest offer was $4000, which some people may say I should have taken, but I know better.

What do you mean you don't think your car could be lowered?

At 16 and in CA, why were you looking for a car in TX? I'm sure you could have found one locally for cheap, and checked it out. If your mom lives in TX I would have tried to register it there lol. Cali sucks. My 280zx wouldn't pass smog, so I said "F*** it, I go to school in FL so I'll register it there". Does your car pass smog now? As for suspension, bushing make probably the second most noticeable difference right after a full set of NOT OEM shocks and springs. The KYB's are OEM and I bet your shocks weren't blown. S13 coilover conversion is very straight forward and simple, just get decent quality coilovers. Good luck with your project, and I'd suggest to do the turbo conversion as soon as possible. It will make the car much more fun. Edit: You're like the 3 person I've seen this week post a brown ZX

Possibly corrosion behind gauge or your tach could be going out. My 260z did that every now and then. I'd start the car and it would go crazy and never stay still even though the car was idling. Then after about 20 min driving it would be back to normal. Then hit a bump and it would go crazy again. I didn't care enough to fix it since I was going to do a full gauge swap, but then I sold the car.

does your washer pump work? I'm pretty sure I trashed that thing along with the tubes for it. Not like I ever use it.

Yeah, I probably remove my fenders once every couple months to clean shit like that out, or after every cross country drive. I've sprayed that part with some anti rust primer crap to help as well.