BluDestiny

Bolting a L tranny to a KA block is retarded. The KA tranny is stronger and much more abundent so you use the KA tranny and have a driveshaft made. As for the Mkckinney mounts, they do make a KA kit: http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240-260-280Z+KA24DE+swap The few S30 that I've seen with an KA used custom mounts, because of how they wanted the placement of the motor/trans. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/79096-ka24de-into-240z-swap-completed-with-turbo/

Taken from this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/91330-240z-chassis-prep-reinforcements/ For a street driven S30, here's about as much as you can do to stiffen the chassis: 1. Seam Weld (every sheet metal seam overlap.) 2. Bad Dog Subframe Connectors 3. Weld-In Roll Bar. 4. Welded In Rear STB. 5. Triangulated Front STB. 6. Radiator Core Support Reinforcement. 7. Transverse Link Bracing Reinforcement. 8. RT Diff Mount. 9. Tubular Seat Mounts. 10. Box Upper Frame Horns to Firewall/Cowl. 11. Reinforce Pedal Box/Brake MC Mount. 12. Reinforce Front ARB Mount. 13. Reinforce Front Strut Tower to Frame Rail Junction.

Honestly for the extra hour of taking the manifolds off, I think your back will thank you.

Is it loose like you can pull it out loose or just wiggle it? Either way I've heard of one of those liners chipping and destroying a turbo, so I would never use that head, but it is completely doable. I would go for a turbo cam if you can find one, or preferably a regrind made for a turbo application (depending on what type of setup you are running) Those valves are stuck. All in all this is not a head that I would just "slap on and call it a day". I would probably drop if off at a machinists and get it cleaned, and checked for cracks before I plan further.

My 280zx has been my most reliable car. Since I got the engine into a shell 5 years ago it has been mechanically the most versatile and easily repairable. When I went with a triple weber setup on my 260z, it worked, and was a blast to drive, but it kept having mechanical problems or kept getting out of tune.

Do you have a bigger picture mpramsey? and more pics?

Sell me your calipers. I can use them on my S13 . It will give you less to do and supply you with funding. Win win if you ask me lol

Other than the small stuff like fuel lines, clamps, and a gasket that should be all. I'd also go with a fpr if you don't have one currently.

Pics or you don't have the car you claim to have.

More than likely he just doesn't want to be held responsible for breaking anything old, but either way it should be cheaper for you if you take it out anyway. On top of that I would bring the driveshaft and have them service or replace the ujoints.

What kind of roof rack is that?

Air flow meter have part numbers specific to location and years. I would try and find the correct air flow meter. That being said I don't think the wrong air flow meter could cause your problem. What are the pin outputs on your fam and your connector? I am using probably the wrong airflow meter because I only have 4 pins on it, while my connector has 5 pins

I would keep them both running, and just work on brakes and suspension on the ZX. It's very easy and cheap, and if you do a basic tune up you can probably get it running decent enough to make it a DD. Personally I would also never swap in a high mileage engine into an old car (even though I know those explorers can go to 300k no problem). If you do know for a fact that you want this engine in, then I would start by parting out the engine of the ZX to make some money back. I bought the current ZX I'm driving for $1500 also, but I had another engine I knew was going in, and a few other parts I knew I was going to use. Sold about $600 worth of parts from the ZX.

I'm sure this overall is a bad idea, but from a thread earlier today I noticed someone needed something and I knew of who exactly would know. Now I also understand that this could also cause members to accidentally call out other members, but that could be negated with a tag option like on facebook, and would require members to even allow if they want to be tagged or not. I do not mean like a tag from searching, but when a members' name is typed into the text box, the member gets a notification that he is needed (or the poster just wanted to show said member). This is just an idea, so other people could voice their opinion or a mod could come out and just flat out say why this won't work. I know a downside would be a lot of specific members called out a lot for their wealth of information, which could lead them to an overflow of messages.

Auto, it pumps harder. I ordered it through MSA

That sounds similar to a problem my friend was having. Basically his car sat forever, I got it running and back together, and it ran fine for a while, then two weeks later, whenever it would rev to 2000rpm UNDER LOAD ONLY it would just act like someone took their foot of the gas peddle, and idle to death. This would have in any gear and was scary as hell first time it happened when I was going down my street because I didn't believe my friend. Do the Pin tests for the ECU. It didn't help that he had a JDM fairlady, and it was more cost effective to put the money for a new ecu into an aftermarket ecu. Rather have new technology, then old tech that can fail again. So he got an SDS. Edit pic looks good, but get some better wheels and lower it a little.

I feel like Tony D and JohnC should definitely chime in. I just brought my car to Uhaul, told them that they have a hitch online that says it will fit and paid them $250. Then bolts it to the underside of the frame and the rear bumper. I'm pretty sure that was the wrong way, but it got a 1200# trailer from FL to Ca in the middle of January. I know for a Z there should probably be some bracing on the underside. I believe JohnC talked about it at one time.

Yeah. When I had the engine rebuilt for my 280zx 2+2 I bought a Turbo oil pump. Difference was very noticeable. The oil pressure always around 3/4 of the gauge. You could probably get away with the NA oil pump, but why bother, you probably have a worn out high mileage na pump anyway.

A stock NA pump would work too. I'm pretty sure they are the same.

Honestly for that price, I'd go with an exedy or spec clutch stage 1. How much power are you making to warrant that clutch?

Do a search on Zilvia and you'll find out. Mostly from leaks, but then again those guys lower it way to much. Consensus is that for the money you can get better brand coilovers. http://zilvia.net/f/chat/373069-ksport-slide-kontrol-review-anybody.html

Miles, I had the same exact problem. I needed brakes on all 4 corners of my 240sx and my driver front calipers kept leaking. I had to do 3 returns before I got a good one. I brought it to my mechanic after the 2nd one because I thought I did something wrong, so he replaced it and it leaked and he had to do it again.

Few updates, First off got the downpipe made. Nothing that the muffler shop had fit, so they ended up slotting a regular 3" 3 bolt flange. It goes from 3" and reduces to 2.5" to match my exhaust system. On top of that I did some heat protection. Also put a few strips on the underside of the intake and the runners, and around the PCV line. I just did a really bad job so I didn't take a picture. Lastly I finally got my STI diff in. The axles came sometime last week, rand to the hardware store to get some bolts to put them together, and just let it sit there as I did the Turbo swap. after that I took a trip to Miami so I couldn't really do anything this weekend. So today I got out of class early and told myself I got this. Took me about 1 hour to drop the 4.11 in there with the axles, spent about 30min cleaning up the new one and swapping covers (the STI cover had a temp sensor in place of the fill up hole and was missing studs). Filler her up and spent about 1 hour putting it back in. All in all the job with breaks took about 3 and a half hours. Here you can sorta see the clutch packs. Its from an 05 STI so its a CLSD. Both of them side by side Adequate use of RTV to seal it. Finally installed The difference is insane. This car now hugs corners with ease, no more skipping. I only drove it for about 5 miles to make sure there were no clunking sounds and to make sure nothing was loose. If you're thinking about getting an LSD, do it. Aside from sticky tires this is the most notable handling difference I've felt.

Got off my ass and put in the some more heat shielding, along with my STI diff swap

Well if your mechanic friend thinks its an injector, which it could be, just pull the injector clips one at a time. If one of them has no effect then it's that injector or plug. What does it normally idle at? has that changed? Ticking could just be the valves. If you have a factory ZX turbo you probably have the P90A head with hydraulic lifters. That could be a sign. Double check on the head stamp for us, or if you know it has solid or hydraulic lifters let us know.