BluDestiny

I run 20W-50 all day and have no problems. If you have a stock pump, reading at half the gauge is a little excessive.My oil of choice is Valvoline VR1 Racing

Those are adhesive pads, think 3m double sided tape.

Tight fitment, just the way I like it; Rear Front The rears are 17x10 +18 with a 1.5in spacer (effectively -20). the fronts are 17x9 +22 with a 1.75in spacer and a 7mm slip on spacer (effectively -20) And I could probably do away with the extra 7 mm spacer. Tires are Hankook RS-3's, 235/45/17 in the front and 255/40/17 in the rear.

Finally got my Enkies on yesterday:

Its not a matter of hp, its a matter of shock to the system, how you drive your car, and what you use your car for. I know guys that run 400-500hp Z's and have had a welded diff in their car for years, I've also heard of people going to the track for the first time and blowing out their diff and axles after a few goes.

The wheel/tire combo is, by about 10lbs per wheel, but the spacers are about 5lbs per wheel. So not a complete waste.

Please tell us you also put in more coolant and bled the system. Better yet tell us everything that happened and how you fixed it.

more updates on everything

Wow I feel like RB26's post was yesterday.

Achievement unlocked: not crappy rims on all 4 corners Tight fitment, just the way I like it; Rear Front The rears are 17x10 +18 with a 1.5in spacer (effectively -20). the fronts are 17x9 +22 with a 1.75in spacer and a 7mm slip on spacer (effectively -20) And I could probably do away with the extra 7 mm spacer. Tires are Hankook RS-3's, 235/45/17 in the front and 255/40/17 in the rear. Also before anyone asks the spacers "convert" me to 5 lug. and I do have room to spare. about an inch more of rim in the rear, and at least half an inch in the front.

Achievement unlocked: not crappy rims on all 4 corners Tight fitment, just the way I like it; Rear Front Before anyone asks me questions, The rears are 17x10 +18 with a 1.5in spacer (effectively -20). the fronts are 17x9 +22 with a 1.75in spacer and a 7mm slip on spacer (effectively -20) And I could probably do away with the extra 7 mm spacer. Tires are Hankook RS-3's, 235/45/17 in the front and 255/40/17 in the rear.

Are you a pilot? I'm doing Electrical Engineering at Embry-Riddle Daytona Beach.You should have come here, especially if you want to pay an arm and a leg lol. Anyway enough of my shameless plug. We used to have an SAE program, but after my freshman year it switched to a formula/hybrid. That didn't really matter though since I was working on designing the suspension. We used a kawasaki z6 motor I believe. We had our own fiberglassing area and could make small fiberglass parts with. Man I wish I could use that machinery for my car.

The top of S13/S14 240sx coilovers fit the bolt pattern. Just ry and find a pair of those and reinforce the strut tower if you decide to cut it out. PPK just cut the top out, but he also has a metal ring/washer type thing to keep it all attached. And he beats the shit out of his car.

http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/01/ole-orange-bang-my-1970-datsun-240z/

muahahahahah This was achieved with this beast. 1.5in 4x114 to 5x114 spacer/adapter: I did have to grind down my studs, and I bought a crappy harbor freight angle grinder that actaully broke, so I'm going to need to return it right after I get the fronts on. Only the rears for now, still waiting on some lug nuts for the front. which just got in, but I couldn't pick up since I'm in class.

Wear from hard corning is on the outside, not inside. You're making it sound like you have a tweaked frame. The reason you feel nothing with the stock tires is because they are just plain small and probably all seasons. They don't have the gripping power that your wider wheels have. I maxed out the negative camber on my s13 coilovers and then bolted it in without cutting the hole out. So basically if I want to adjust them, I have to unbolt and remove them. I mean spot wleding the crappy tack welds and reinforcing the top with some kind of plate. There has to be something wrong with the frame or moutning of yor crossmember. There is no reason your tires should wear out that fast, unless they are some sticky summer tires rated at 180 treadwear anyway. I mean I used to burn up sets of Khumo ecsta XS's every 3 months when I would go canyoning about 4-5 times a week, and that's an extreme case. just curious can you post a pic of your alignment printout? or tell us how bad your camber/toe was? like -2 degrees?

Definately sounds like a slave or master problem. Same thing happened to me, one day it drove, the next day I couldn't get it into gear. My master cylinder decided to puke all over my firewall from a bad oring.

They have a cross flow 4 core one. Koyo now makes one as well, but I like to use the 240sx SR20 radiator with custom mounts. Works fine and they have custom fan shrouds that fit and are cheap as crap. my first one was some $80 ebay rad, which died when I crashed, replaced it with a Mizu for like $200 and its been fine for a year.

The little plastic ring around them right at the panel is a plastic nut that srews onto it. Ir at least it should be. This is for a 280zx, which from your avatar I'm assuming you're working on

That is cool, but the market for ZX kits isn't the best, plus it's for a 2+2 if that matters.

Why would yo order from italy? There is a shop in North Hollywood called top end performance or something that I ordered my kit from. It does help that its right around frmo my friends house though. I've heard they have shipping problems

You'd probably be better off just welding the R200 because the obx lsd's have geven other people problems. Also a 3.54 r200 are quite easy to find. Turbo 280zx's had them.

well talked to guy and he does have most/all the maintenance records. Apparently the tranny was replaced at 120k miles (car has 160k now). Other miscellaneous things were done here and there, but the tranny was the biggest expense ( bill said $6000). He couldn't find anything about the wiring harness, which has me worried. My friend also ran out of time for his carfax period, so I may get one soon. to check it out. For those that do have carfax the Vin is wdbga57e2sa226451

That bump is structural. cutting it out weakens the top and should only be done when reinforcing the strut tower. That's wny I just adjusted my camber plates (s13 coils) and bolted them in like that. I do not know why you are getting camber wear in the front. That back is obvious since lowering it induces camber. Possible getting some offset bolts should be enough to correct it, but I actually think you may be getting toe wear. How are your TC rod bushings? Also have you gone in for an alignment since getting the new tires/rims on?

well the spacers are giving me a little troule, but only becasue I walked right into it. The studs on my front set are 1/4 -20 thread and the rear are 12x1.5 thread. So I had the front set studs pressed out and new 12x1.5 thread studs pressed in. Also waiting on my lug nuts to show up. Should be in in a few days. Will update with pics of the rims on the car along with my new plan of action. In the mean time: Yes the secnd guy is my friend, Yes he sucked.