BluDestiny

I"m guessing your plan is to turbo? I'd go with ARP bolts just to leave room to expand your hp. As for the bearings, did you measure the crank? You never know if there has been machine work before. Or maybe you do.

Are you using a turbo harness or adapting your harness? Also are you using your non turbo components? The afm on a turbo zx is in front of the turbo inlet so you could put a bov anywhere eight before the throttle body.

I got it for $40. I went to the guys house to buy something else like a fender or something and the asked if I was looking for anything else, I said the only thing I'm looking for is a wing and Tada he had it hidden in the rafters. Asked him how much and since I was already buying other stuff he threw it in for $40 more. What a steal. Edit: just remembered it was a wiperless hatch I was getting, the original on the car had rust issues and this guy had a hatch for $100

Any block? L24/L26/L28? Try talking this guy down since he has crack head prices http://orlando.craigslist.org/pts/3593377751.html

Man you need to do a lot more reading, but you're off to a good start. Here's some more info that should have literally everything you would need to know except for the cam specs. http://pape.ws/allan_and_rosanne/Z-Car_Stuff/Bryan-Little/P79-P90%20head%20modding%20tips.htm I ran an L28 with flattops, late model e88 head (with larger valves), Stage 3 cam kit from MSA, 6-1 headers and triple webers that were rebuilt by top end performance. It was a blast

just post a link to the online album or something. Or use a third party image thingy, like photobucket

Hi, So I've been missing my 260z that I sold about 2 years ago now, and really want another drivable project, or even a clean stockish car. It needs to be a 240z, I don't want another 260z, and I already have a 280zx so I don't want a 280z. I'm in Central Florida for college, but I also go back to Los Angeles for summer and winter break. So I am looking in both of those spots. My budget is around $4000, but I would much prefer to spend $1500 on a straight rust free roller, than $3000 on a freshly painted car with "some rust issues" which seem to be every car down here in FL. To trade I have a 1993 240sx Auto with 120k (my gf currently drives it, but she is graduating and won't be needing it in may) and I can put cash on top. This is what it currently looks like, has a few goodies (adjustable arms, strut bars, sway bars, tein springs etc) Registration doens't matter since I will be registering it in FL if I can get it to FL. If you are in Cali I obviously can't check the car out so send a lot of pictures to me, and If I like enough I can paypal you a deposit. edit: I'm also looking at 510's if someone on here has one. Any body style, coupe, sedan, wagon Shoot me a pm on here please.

Call tokico back, get the specs like diamter and height etc. and then call eiback and have them custom make a set. Its not that expensive.

I've been looking for a cheap 240z for here for a while now as well. I did see that post (I think). Honestly, since I came from cali, and I know what I can get in Cali, and I make the drive from cali like 4 times a year, I will probbaly end up buying a Z out there for much cheaper with a rust free body.

but the retractable antenna is so cool and 80's

Someone on this board was actually thinking of buying this car to take Te kit off and reproduce it. Good replicas can probably sell for $1000. Oly down side is that this car is a 2+2.

I have both of my fans wired to a single switch, both with relays. I turn them on around town, and I turn them off at freeway speeds. For what it's worth I am using an sr20 rad with fan shroud, total cost was abotu $350. Made some custom brackets for the top and bottom with rubber insulators. Its in a 280zx but should have no problem fitting into an s30.

where do you autocross? I do it with the central florida scca. Invite me to the next one

Definitely adjust valves, and then mess with the carbs. L engines tend to make a lot of noise anyway. I highly doubt that anything is seriously wrong with the engine if you got it to start up and idle without a problem. And before anyone says anything about swapping to round top SU carbs, get it running right with the webers first. Throwing a new fuel mixing system at an engine that doesn't run right anyway won't help. Those carbs "suck" compared to the round top SU's. Suck is in quotes because everyone loves the round tops for their pretty much self tuning idiot proof system that works for 99% of drivers.

The front calipers as far as I know are the same, The rear calipers are not. The early calipers are called the elephant ear calipers, because of the giant piece of metal that looks like an ear. The also have a smaller bolt pattern (the two bolts used to bolt it up are closer together). Incidentally, my friend held up a newer porsche caliper and the bolt pattern was the same. In order to change to the later style calipers, you need to swap the whole rear trailing arm/hub. Its not hard, and I probably should have done it when I was redoing my suspension, but I already had some decent pads, and the drilled/slotted rotors MSA sells. The rear calipers have the same bolt pattern as a 240sx, so you can use those calipers as bolt in I believe, the q45 calipers, or upgrade to the 300zx calipers with the use of a spacer.

It would be easier to go to a mexican muffler shop on the corner and get them to just replace that piece of pipe. It would probably be less than $40. As for the exhaust the only issue you will have will be having to make hangers, which any competent muffler shop can do, and you will need to use tin snips to cut out an exit on the driver side rear part. The length will not affect anything during your smog. edit: fixed my sh!t english

I believe hawk makes some pads for the front and rear. I'm currently using PBR ceramic pads, but I don't know how "performance" they are. I know tire rack used to carry hawk pads, but just searched and can't find them. MSA sells some: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PBC01/24-5502 Also: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/101552-brake-update-280zx/

Those mounts look amazing, What about on the cross member side? edit: just searched the first page and saw.

Its on the side of the intake, just behind the throttle body. will look just like the picture on the bottom right of the page that cgsheen posted.

Bumping this thread since I saw this post on speedhunters http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/02/godzilla-attacks-the-gibson-group-a-gt-r/

I dropped my tranny with just 4 jack stands (maxed out to the highest) and a lo pro jack to ease the tranny out. Forks really shouldnt' matter. unless its a 4 speed fork and 5 speed fork I believe, and I think it's just the pivot point that is different then. I'm using a Z32 fork because they are a little beefier and a 2+2/turbo TO bearing and collar.

Do you have an after market head unit? Most of them come with a specific antenna harness. That's your hot wire.

Definitely too much positive offset. You should either run a 1in spacer or find something in zero offset.

It feels super planted now, compared to the steelies I had with some all seasons. These rims saved me about 5lbs per corner on weight (wheel/tire combo is 10lbs lighter per corner, but the spacers add 5lbs per corner). I'm actually thinking of heading to discount tire and asking how much I can get back if I trade in these hankooks and go with something stickier.

For things you listed, you can easily get an aluminum flywheel, have an aluminum driveshaft made, and get some lightweight custom rims made, an run slimmer tires to reduce weight (that's what I did, going from my steelies to some forged wheels), and a drycell battery will save 20+lbs. Those are skid plates, that's a heat shield in the tunnel (which I deleted since I'm running a 2.5inch pipe) and a splash guard up front which just gets in the way or oil changes. Biggest quick difference will be removing the front and rear bumpers. That's almost a 100 difference right there. The car just looks fugly then. I've also thought about removing the crash bar under the door skin, but then what happens in an accident? Same with the rear bumper. Which is the only reason I keep them on. Maybe if I got to an autocross very early, or trailored my car I would remove that stuff.