BluDestiny

pics. of everything. I will be joining you shortly for the SR in an S130. Just picked up a running doner car for $2200. the guys dyno sheet read 300whp and a little less tq. Still need to rip it out of the car and strip the shell and get that hunk of metal out of my garage before I go through the block.

I've read that the wiring harness does go out and usually gets replaced around this mileage or before. Will definitely be spending a day with him trying to figure out the electronics. He does say everything works. Will ask for a vin so that I can get a car fax and ill ask him. Im pretty sure that he just bought this car to flip it so I don't know how much about the maintenance record he knows. In all honestly im only looking at driving this thing till I graduate college and get a job, so another year, or two if I decide to go for my masters.

Was looking around for a "luxury" daily. Tired of my bike and a little rattled after another death of a student at my school from a motorcycle accident, not that I knew him personally, but knew of him. Spotted this add on zilvia: http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/494921-handbuilt-v12-s600-mercedes-vip-ready-trades-welcome.html obviously the last few pics aren't his and he is willing to take the bike plus cash. Before I even consider this, I'd like to know if anyone has had or worked on one of these beasts. How much of a pain are they and how reliable are they? Would mostly be doing DD stuff in it, possibly a cross country at some point. I would have to drive about 5 hours to get trade for it anyway. for reference here is my bike, 03 CBR 600RR. http://zilvia.net/f/cars-sale/498079-2003-honda-cbr-600rr-4000-12k-miles.html

This is heading to the tool shed. Should have searched first

69 roadster, do you have a build thread? I'd like to see how you mounted the SR and did all the piping.

Miles, most of the old timers on this site also post on Zcar. and some on calssicZ. And I think TonyD may post on some other classic car forums. They don't post on ratsun much, if at all though (as far as I know).

Depends on how far you are willing to go. At that weight I would expect fiberglass doors, hood and hatch with lexan all around. Gutted interior, dash, and fg seats hard mounted. I don't think you have the lighter series 1 240z, so you have about 400lbs to go to get there. If I didn't drive my car to school, or on the road in general, I would not have bumpers and would cut out the safetly crash bars in the door and replace everything with lexan.

Wow you have been doing a lot to the engine. It should run good as new by the time you are done going through everything.

280zx turbo rims,either the snowflakes or the swastikas. They are 15x6 so they have many tire options, slicks included

I went through west texas in the snow, and my car started up after a full 12 hours in the cold with literally no problem. I was even thinking "damn I wish I had a cold start this is going to take a while" but it didn't. Now maybe if you lived where it dropped below 10 or even 15 I would consider it, but I have no experience in that range.

Go with the Technotoytuning TC rods. They will hold up to anything.

You may want to pull the plugs, let it all dry out and pour a drop of oil into each cylinder before you do start it. I would do an oil change also for good measure incase any got into the crank case.

Yeah I was 2640 lbs with me in the car (was 200 then). I am NA and I had a full tank of gas, car is stripped similar to yours., I have headers and a 2.5" pipe all the way to a muffler. I have two sparco seats with sliders. At the time of weight I did not have my front bumper on, but that was because I had the Gnose front end. I have hand crank windows. I do have a urethane ZXR wing which is 25lbs. I also have steel diamond racing rims. They weight about 200lbs collectively. I just bought some enkies and they weigh about 40 lighter total (10lbs per wheel). Lastly I also normally autoX with half a tank which in itself is 60lbs lighter. Doing an engine swap in the future so after that I will really see how much it weighs in at.

AutoX'd for the first time in like 6 months. Did pretty well considering I was on some crappy all seasons

How did you do the 5 lug swap? I'm very curious.

They are silver. Still waiting on one set of spacers before I can put them on. Running some Hankook Ventus RS-3's. I had RS-2's (I believe) a long time ago, so I'm excited to try these out. Also got the car painted one solid color,flattish satin black. This is just a temp color while I do a bunch of work on it, just got really sick of seeing a multicolored car every day for the past 4 years. I found an add on CL for a guy who painted cars for $200. Thought it would take me about half that along with time down to do it myself (which I have done, did not enjoy the exp) so I figured I had nothing to lose. On top of that it was only $200 so I didn't really have high expectations. Long story short I was quite impressed. Sure there is a tad of overspray, but that was expected. Next update will be with the wheels on hopefully. I should be getting the rear spacers tomorrow.

I have just used a razor blade and a thick metal block with some fine sand paper wrapped around it and have not had issues. This was a daily driver that I did no form of racing in at all. Literally changed the head gasket 2 days before a cross country drive and had no issues

They look like an inch thick. Value can easily be a few G's to the right person, although there are not a lot of 280zx owners out there. Can you get more picks of the heim joint ends on the control arms? front and rear please?

Wow that's nuts, talk about time capsule. The rear cross member looks very custom and has a similar "cradle" to hold the diff. As for pricing, There is a lot of work done particularly to the control arms, front and rear. Someone installed Heim joints which if its done correctly is worth something. Most of the other stuff can be bought or fabricated or borrowed from other nissan chassis.

Big things happening. Ordered some rims and sticky tires, and car is currently in a very cheap couple day paint jail. Will see how everything turns out by this friday. Also Turbo swap may have a new meaning in the near future after much debate with my friend. Teaser shots will probably be posted in about 3 days

I literally just didn't want to deal with the painting this time round on my car, and I saw an add on CL about a guy who does paint jobs for $200 about an hour away from me. I do not need the paint looking pretty, just want a single color so I said F%$# it and called him up. Guy knows his stuff, but seems a little sketch. at least he's using a paint gun and not rattle can. I figured the time saved on my hands and the $50-70 in paint cans/sandpaper will def make it worth it. Also just my two cents, but these engines prefer dino oil, not synthetic. I would switch to Valvoline VR1 20w-50. That's what I run with a mobil 1 filter.

Puller fans with a proper shroud will work better. I think a pusher fan should only be used when space is a major issue

Bump, becasue I want to know if Yasin can reupload the pics. I'm planning on getting some 17x9 +22 rims, but I'm going to run a 4-5 lug 38mm spacer. so effectively -16. Granted I did my coilovers differently .

Yeah I got my original urethane one for $60. I wouldn't sell it for less than $400 though. I would very much like to make a fiberglass copy because it is god awful heavy (around 25#) and I like the middle area that is lower than the rest of the tale. The fiberglass repros for sale I see don't have that, they have a continuous edge.