BluDestiny

First off, I'm really sorry about what happened to your friend. I wouldn't even know what to do if my best friend did that. Next I'd like to say that for the money, your car definitely looks good. You put a lot of time into this project and it shows. That being said, I can't believe you did most of it drunk lol

Go find some manual doors. Then just rip out all the wiring.

That looks awful close to the seats. and can you take bigger pictures?

replace the Fuel rail. It will make a world of difference in looks.

1) Call isky and tell him your setup and he will recommend something. Price depends on if its something stock or something custom. 2)Stock turbo is a T3, not T25. The Garret GT30/35's are killer. If you have the money go with one. wastegate depends on how much boost you are going to run. 3)What kind of port work are you looking for? You can go with Rebello since he's closer to you. Spend a lot and he will figure the cam and headwork and give you flow charts and tell you exactly wehat turbo to use, or you can get it ported somewhere in local and then figure everything out yourself. If you want to use a place in Los Angeles, I know Eric's Racing does L series heads quite well.

I thought a stiffer front bar decreases under steer. It also depends on the rear also. You want a smaller difference since you have stiffer springs, if I'm reading the post 3 above right.

That is the cleansest brown ZX I've seen ever. Original paint or respray?

Washer fluid level. I bet you have the stupid "LED" warning system in your car with the light thing inbetween the tach and speedo. And I bet it's always just a red block.

That all looks like surface rust. I'd bust out a wire wheel and see where that takes you.

83turbo, for some reason the link in your sig doesn't work. But I'm assuming this is you. I think I first read about your swap on zcar years ago http://www.dallasimports.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=130978

It should not bleed off pressure that fast. It takes my car about an hour to bleed off from 35ish psi. I have a similar setup (shaved n42 intake, fuel rail, and no heat shield) but I've never had that problem. I have the MSA 6-1 headers that are coated, but that's it as far as any kind of heat shielding. How is your fuel system routed?

You should probably post this in the wheel show thread. Also what size tire and what suspension are you running?

Peel them off with a large area scraper. Personally I'd toss those. I prefer the clean look.

That thing off the TB is the BCDD (boost control decel device). It basically controls your decel fueling so you don't dump gas when you just decide to let off after a wide open throttle run. What have other people done? I'd imagine just moving it forward more, or even lower. I'd also probably not run the clutch fan and use some slim electric fans instead.

Lol I paid $400 for one that had a blown headgasket and drove. It was an 81 auto as well. I actually parted most of it out. I think I made $1000 from parting it out. Now I've actually pieced together a turbo swap (minus the engine and intake) and I think it's cost me around $800 for almost everything. I actually have 2 harness' and ECU's though, and I had the injectors sent to RC for cleaning and flow testing, also has a lot of parts cleaned and painted and the Turbo mani coated and wrapped.

Those floor pans need attention quickly. The rest looks either non structural or not severe. The actual interior like near the trunk looks decent

So I got the sti diff, and I'm using the flanges that JohnC makes, but I realized I have bolt in axles, not the ones that use a halfshaft. So I need a pair. I'd prefer to buy just the flanges so I can press in new joints, but if you don't want to part them I'll take the whole thing. Shipping would be to 32114, PM or text me at 818-919-4242. Need these ASAP. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/111700-finally-got-my-sti-diff-but-i-had-a-brainfart/

1. You do not want to look the heater hose to the rear of the head. It would be better to block them off. Read up on that and search this site for the "why". 2. Vacuum is really only required for the dizzy, fpr, charcoal canister, brake booster, and some parts of the TB/BCCD, not sure about 280z's but my 280zx had a black canister thing right near the passanger side strut tower that controlled al the vacuum for the AC system. Threw that in the trash. 3. The fuses are for the car, you need those. unless you want to just burn up your entire harness. 4. Cleaning up the fuel rail will get rid of half the "spaghetti" on your engine. Pallnet and Cockerstar (both members here) can make you a fuel rail. You do not need the non EGR manifold, but it will really help the look. 5. That is the AFM boot, you can buy a new one without the fittings for the hoses that go to the TB and manifold. You should keep your PCV system also. You can get rid of your EGR system if you do it correctly. You don't need your cold start injector. Just read up on this site, look at peoples builds, etc..

So I finally got my STI diff, and I've had BetaMotorsports halfshsafts for the better part of a year now. I was originally trying to have a mystery diff installed into a spare R180 I had laying around. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/102437-mystery-locking-diff-is-it-a-subie-diff/ Anyway on to my mistake. Well I have a 280zx, and it came with an R180. So I figured I can use the STI diff in my ZX. Well After getting the pinion flanges swapped out, I realized the diff in my ZX has bolt in axles, not the stub axles/halfshaft set up. Doh, Now my question is, can I just get the halfshaft setup from an early S30 and bolt that in place of my bolt on axles? And if anyone has any spares I'll buy them. This is what I have: This is what I want to run:

Jesus I thought my friend got ripped off for $2000 on his, but his was rust free compared to this one. His rolled.

I guess my car is named rod. I have a dash mat on from the PO and it has "Rod" engraved into. Got so many questions as to my name being rod that I just starting saying its the cars name. You can see the name here.

ok so I'm not having luck finding an aftermarket rear sump pan. This will make it interesting since I do want it before the crossmember. May either notch the stock pan, or try and make a rear sump

Ok the first thing you should do is a tune up, not a brake booster. And the stock ecu is literally about as basic as you can get. I belive a super nintendo has more computing power than the stock ecu. As for deleting vac lines and such, just read, check out my build thread and other peoples builds and search for "shaved intake" etc. The first thing you want to do for a clean look is to get an N42 non webbed, non egr manifold.

That middles plug looks a tad oily. I've always heard people say and engine performs best right before it goes . You're probably has a lot of life left in it. How much oil consumption are you actually talking about? quart every 500miles?

Pics of the underside This last one is the rear shock tower. I guess all that crud is glue for the interior.