BluDestiny

Pics?

The last link I posted does show him driving around the block, for some reason its not popping up in the post. Wiring is an issue as he's "gone through all the wiring". Yeah it is in AZ. Also the car is in a primered state right now, which I don't mind. I'm doing this for a series 1 shell that I can drive away. It is missing a all the interior except the dash (cracked to hell) and center console. It has bare minumum wiring (as you can tell). I would be trying to pretty much rewire the car, I don't plan on registering it or even driving it for a ahwile since I have a few projects on my plate right now anyway. It's all about having a straight body, and from the few shots of the frame rails, floor pans and underside he sent me, the unibody is fairly straight.

You will have a hard time finding tires that wide in 15" that are for street use. I would go with 16x9, because I know they make a 245/50/16 tires.

Domz, he is talking offset. a -25 on a 15x8 is not the same as a -25 on a 15x10. His calculation is correct. Jimmy, if you go with a 15x8 up front you will get the same placement, but you won't get the stretch look like comic artists' car, even if you go with a 195 up front. If you are into the stretch/poke fad then do 15x10's all around. if you want something that looks a little more normal then go with the 15x8. The lip and outer fitment will be the same, but the stretch won't. Also he is running flares up front.

Weight is almost always a factor in most kinds of racing. Save yourself some greif and find a lighter model. Unless of course you plan on doing extensive modifications to the body. As to the worth it, John is right. There are so many other variables to consider, like creature comforts, engine, engine build, drivetrain set up etc....

You are overspringing the shock, and it sounds like you have blown shocks anyway. Imagine having to pull a a thin metal disk through oil, with the flat part going against the direction you are pulling. Now imagine going 50x faster. You're going to put more stress on it and possibly bent the disk. That's what you are doing to your shocks. They are not valved to handle those springs.

You want a lower offset in the front like miky said. On that note, do not buy diamond racing if you want to look good. They look alright. Go with super awesome wheels like volks or ssr's, something one off. If you really want to go with diamonds, check out comic artists Z. He is running some diamonds with flares. http://community.ratsun.net/topic/38323-form-function-s30/

Heh I saw that too. I also found some forum tor tractors(?) that explained a little more about how one side locks under slipping edit: I meant lawnmowers http://www.chaski.com/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=87040

That's why I didn't post the CL add. I'm pretty certain about this car and he has been sending me plenty of pictures.

They aren't "american classics". There are exceptional examples that have sold for quite a lot. I know Clive was selling some prime examples. and there are a few that are floating around that have had crazy amounts of labor done which justifies the cost. The only examples I can see that would sell for a lot are super low original matching numbers cars or race cars.

Bumping this from the dead. Brought this diff with me to FL along with my spare 4.11 R180. Was hopin got get it installed and find some info about it. Well I got the info part. I was told that it is a Spraag type differential, like they uses in trackers, and that is in good shape and is a decent type of differential. Only problem is that it would require some machine work and spacers to get it to fit properly into my r180 carrier. So I ended up biting the bullet and I've bought a subie 3.9 off nasioc which should be in next week. Only reason being is that the shop could get it installed, but it is past the price of a just getting the subie diff. Maybe later down the road I would consider trying to get this installed. If anyone has any information on spraag/spragg diffs, please chime in.

Every ebay store I buy from I always try and call first, to potentially pick up (most are located in the southern california area). If they don't do pick up then at least I know it's there.

So I've been looking for an s30 to drive probably for the last year, since I've been having withdrawals from selling mine back in 2011. Found one potential buy for a great price, asked him for more pics and vids, so far I have the vids of a walkaround and it driving. It looks pretty good, but I wanted a few more eyes to watch the vids to catch anything I may be missing.

May have found a lead on a cheap, running, modded series 240z. I'll keep you guys posted

Uhm your idle looks perfectly stable around 13-14.

Drill and tap the one you have an use an AN fitting. Will look much cleaner. I got a stock turbo pan and I'm going to be running just a rubber drain hose. Looks fugly

I'd check afm and all efi related components for proper resistance. Then check fuel pressure/filter/pump for inconsistent fueling.

I really want that roll bar

Go get stiffer springs/go to coilovers lol

I hope you put those parts to good use, I didn't think anyone would want them. The issue for the rear E brakes on 240sx's is a simple matter of using literally everything e brake related to the z32. They even make conversion brackets for like $60. You already have the hubs and will be able to go 5 lug with a hub/bearing swap.

What is it at WOT or steady cruise? If you want to check for a gasket leak just spray carb cleaner all around the intake and see if it revs up a little.

The ZX wheel well came with a bracket spot welded onto the frame to support the afm. If this is going into a s30, you should probably try to find a nice snug place for it and make a bracket (removable or not, your choice) to support the afm.

So it begins. Pulled the SR20 out of my parts car this weekend and stripped out almost everything else I need except the windshield. I bought this car pretty much just for the engine, saw the add and checked it out. It did run and idled fine, but he couldn't rev it past 3k, probably a fuel problem since the car had been sitting for like 5 months he said. On top of that the headgasket had been blown. Bought it for $2400 and to date I have sold about $1100 of parts from it so far with quite a few parts still left, I could probably get another $300 easy out of some parts, just need to get the shell out of my garage. $1300 isn't bad for a running, modded, 300whp sr20 even if it does have a blown hg. The engine hoist was bleeding oil and wouldn't lift all the way, so I ended up cutting the front support off Finally got it out and separated the tranny (came with a B&M short shifter = win) It has an aftermarket spec clutch and some aftermarket flywheel (unknown if lightweight or not) which I will probably be getting rid of. Tranny has the short shifter, engine has rocker arm stoppers, came with a freddy intake and tomei tubular ex. headers, isis downpipe and it has a more than likely blown GT2871 on it. Will be scrapping the shell this week once my weather strip comes in and I can swap the windshield out to my s13. Basic plans are to completely rebuild it, eagle rods and wisco pistons, new clutch and flywheel, keeping the freddy intake and tomei exhaust and isis downpipe. I'm going to be replacing the turbo with a similar one that was rebuilt by my friend, but has a journal bearing center along with buying my friends side feed 550cc injectors. I'll be ditching the tuned ecu in favor of a haltech standalone complete with a full set of custom guages (not sure if I want speedhut or autometer yet). Since the dash will have to come out at some point I will be removing my AC core and some of my ducting since I only need it to defrost my windshield really (and because my heater has been stuck like that since I bought the car). There will be a lot of fab work, which I will be doing under my friend Brian's careful guidance, along with putting the engine back together. End goal: 400whp tuned on pump gas, along with the ability to say I put it together all by myself

I hope you didn't overpay for all that stuff. You also did exactly what I did for the oil cooler mounting. Also don't see an oil pan, is it hiding somewhere?

Saw some of the pics in your gallery, yeah it was pretty far forward, like 50/50 over the crossmember. I'm going to try and find a rear sump pan and then plant that engine in the firewall.