BluDestiny

Fan to a switch is a good idea, for like a track day or if you need the extra cooling power on a hot day. That's how my set up is, although originally I was planning on using the switch temporarily before I hooked up a thermotime switch. Which I never did since it works and I don't mind having to flick a switch after my car warms up. Fuel pump to a switch is a horrible idea because if you get in a worse enough accident, the fuel won't stop and if you're unconscious and it ignites...well you get the idea.

I totally would be down for this if they had anything is 16x8 with a 4x114 bolt pattern, which they don't. I need some new shoes for my 240sx

http://www.az-zbum.com/information.wheels.and.tires.shtml Those probably won't fit because first off all they have massive positive offset, not negative, unless he's measuring the lip and in that case they have wayyyyy too much negative offset. If you do get them you're going to have to stretch street tires on them or run racing slicks.

TRsome what suspension are your running?

Yeah, my po gave me a list of all his modifications along with a reciept book of all the other PO's before him, bless his soul. He hot wired the started to get power from the ignition switch, so he turned the key to on, poked around with a noid light to see what wires were getting power and he spliced it. He used a relay and a direct power wire from the battery, much like how someone would wire up an electric fan to a switch, expect the switch was the "wire that got power when the key was on"

My 260z was wired by the PO to "prime" in the way Mako's car is. In the on position, the fuel pump was audible and would not stop running. So it's possible the PO changed something

You're fuel pressure regulator might also be leaking which is why it's bleeding off some pressure. Other than a possible leak in the system its either the pump is dying, or the fpr is letting more fuel than needed get by.

Problems 2, 4, and 5 are probably connected. IF you had crappy fuel when you first started your car, like 4 yr old fuel, it could have turned to gel and literally clogged the injectors, causing them to drip. My friend put new injectors since we thought that was the problem, but a week later smae thing happened, they dumped fuel. So we had them cleaned by RC engineering, 2 days later we get a call asking how me gummed up brand new injectors so bad to the point they were dripping drops, not a fine spray at all. I don't think 3 is valid. You said you're working with a messed up harness so until that is fixed you can't say a messed up ecu, unless somethign else other than the fuel injectors is going wrong. I think something is blocking you're fuel lines, either **** gas or rust. I would drop and check the tank before you actually install anything else in the fuel system. Then blow compressed air through the hardlines, then change out the rubber fuel lines anyway. Are you sure no one has an AFM for you?

madhater any progress?

Its been a while, and I've only gotten a few things done. Painted the sideskirts, front end, and my fenders satin black. Only looks bad because the rest of the car is grey or white. Fiberglass stuff Bunch of crap inside the fenders, gross it had been hot and sunn for about a week prior and this stuff was still moist. The red fender really got to me Painted And the half finished product I'm planning on doing the entire roof and rear end as soon as tropical storm debby lets up. Its been raining nonstop for like a week.

Its been coming and going, mostly with the school year. Freshman year I had my blue 260z, drove that back for summer and sold it about a year ago, then the next year I had my 81 280zx 2+2, took it back home and crashed that and now I have my 80 280zx coupe. Freshman yr Sophmore yr (before and after rattle can) POS I'm rolling in now

That blows, I was considering selling my motorcycle to buy this as a daily. edit, and you didn't fall asleep, you're Z was just puting out fumes

Yeah you'd have to know the CC if you want to calculate it using that online calculator. Why are you only shaving it that much? Normally people shave it .08" and use flattops to get a 10:1ish comp ratio. What is your reasoning for using dished? It will do nothing for the head you have except mess with the quench zone. Are you going with a high comp engine, or a turbo? This combo seems like it will yield similar to stock NA performance. IF you have the diameter of the cylinder head combustion chambers you could use math and calculate the area and subtract that from the stock CC for a good estimate.

Do you have more pictures? only the first one is showing up edit nvm they showed up That's damn good.

Well you could always buy a infared gun and double check just to be safe. Better safe than sorry

MY friends civic had a similar cooling problem, it would run cool on the freeway, but when it was left idling at a stop light it would heat up. We had just changed out the radiator, new silicone hoses, and a thermostat. We thought the rad was the problem, it being a half size. Then we checked the brand new thermostat. Threw it in a boiling pot of water and waited for it to open....and waited.....and waited. Never opened. Got a new one and it worked fine.

You're the guy who wants to trade it for a tig welder. I've seen the car on cl before the accident and it looked fairly clean, beaten, but clean and straight. You wanted $2500 in its original running condition, now its just a parts car, worth maybe $500-1000. Maybe worth it to someone who does body work, but in my opinion the unibody is hit and I don't do body work. It could just be the picture, but it looks like the front tire has negative camber, so something in the suspension could be tweaked. Not sure how much you could get for it, $1000 maybe

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/56465-turbo-dizzy-from-280zx/ Third post down will tell you all you need. Except you have a late model 260z so the wiring may not be the same. In fact if I recall the 260's had an electric dizzy anyway, not points. At least mine did, and I know it wasn't a ZX dizzy. I was revving to 7k with my dizzy no problem. Why are you doing this mod?

35psi is normal for my 280zx NA, so I would easily expect the same for an L28et. What pump are you using? Could just be old. As for a fuel pressure guage, When I had my webers I was using a cheap as autozone gauge that screwed into a plastic fitting and I just had it right after the fuel rail on the return line side. If you want your engine bay to look a little bit nicer try and find a used pallnet rail. It makes a world of difference appearance wise. Here is the way I did it, in anticipation of my turbo swap. I used a fuel rail with an aeromotive fpr and a simple liquid filled gauge threaded into it. You can see the hardline runs straight into my fule filter (black thing) and on the right side there is a rubber hose running into the FPR, that's the return. On a side note are you going to college yet?

What's the reason for the uneven box design? I'm talking about the notch on the right side vs the "full" left side? Is it for your amp? or is that going somewhere else?

Just curious how did you deweb the manifold? dremel? Squeal could mean a lot of things, but if it's coming from the tranny area I'd be asking how old it the clutch, how many miles on the tranny....etc. The other guy who said it was a "vacuum leak" probably thinks that the intake manifold is deteriorated and letting extra air into the engine, which would throw off your AFM reading and could have been a reason why it was running sluggish. Normally if there is a leak letting air into the engine though your idle would jump way up. As for the AFM, I personally wouldn't mess with it, and the idle screw is to be adjusted to make the car idle at 750rpm, so for one car it could be different than another that was say on top of a mountain with thin air. Did the temperature read hot with your old radiator? or did this just happen after you switched out the old radiator?

A slight ticking is normal for these old mechanical lifters. Normally The valve lash is on a sticker on the inside of the hood. I believe mine is .010 in/.012 ex

Maybe not a rally car but its got similar hp figures. http://www.speedhunters.com/2012/06/the-quattro-of-power/

Yeah I did that once. I had to buy a spare one off a member here. It cost me $50 and left me stranded for a few days in FL. The thermo housings are matched to the head not the block, so it depends on what head you have (N47 or P79/p90) It being maxed out means that it is grounding somewhere. When it is disconnected it should read 0 and when you put the wire to ground it jumps all the way to 270. For my connections, my top right is my electric cooling fan sensor ( threw that away and disconnected the wires), bottom right is my temp gauge sensor(they sell them at autozone for $15-$20 and when I changed mine my temp reading shot up consistently because my old sensor was corroded), the bottom left is a vacuum block that I assume assume is what was connected to the idle up/cold start system, and finally the top left is the thing with the green 2" wire sticking out (I noticed no difference of having it connected and having it not connected. I keep it connected just because I don't want a wire dangling around near my fan.) So basically my 4 o'clock and 10 o'clock are switched. My engine is from an 81, that I had rebuilt using a p90 head. Used my old Thermostat housing though (p79 housing).

There could be some ill effects from trying to start it with the timing horribly off. If it runs and runs well though (after you sort everything out) then leave it be though.