BluDestiny

Its sooooo clean.

I've always run two. In my 260 I had one as constant on since I removed my clutch fan and then one switch activated when I wanted to use the AC or was doing a canyon run. In my 280zx I have 2 fans with a metal shroud and both are wired to a single switch; I have to run them after my car warmps up because my Gnose front end does not allow enough air to pass through and it is very turbulent because of the gap between the lip and the radiator . Whether or not you are using a shroud makes a big difference.

It seriously looks amazing. Very nice work.

Getting the injectors clean is defiantly worth it I think, and you can either have them just cleaned, or cleaned and flow tested. RC injectors in Socal will clean and flow test them for $25 an injector. I feel like a new fuel pump wouldn't hurt either, but you could probably just try and guy a used one that works off a known member. I sold mine to my friend for like $20, but then again he bought like $200 of parts from me to get his ZX running. My fuel pressure is set to 35ish. I had it down to 30 though when I was doing cross country. Saved gas. Don't remember if you said you changed all the rubber gas lines and filters, but you should do that too. And how is the tank? Do you know if its rusty inside? As for the throttle body being black, that's normal for an old car. The PVC system is routed to the throttle body so if the engine is old it probably has some blow by or oil getting past things. If its a lot of oil that's bad (like a steady drip). Does it smell like gas or oil more?

That one hatch strut it awesome. Your suspension looks like someone just put a coilover sleeve and spring on the original strut tube. Which is stupid. Hopefully though he didn't actually modify the strut tubes and you'll be able to take that spring and coilover sleeve off. I can't tell if he welded them into place or not. As for suspension, I'd suggest going with new strut inserts, Tokico blues or similar and some used springs if you can find them. Buying the springs and struts new is only about $500: http://www.ebay.com/itm/TOKICO-BLUE-HP-KIT-SHOCKS-SPRINGS-NISSAN-240Z-260Z-70-74-/270965513168?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f16cd9bd0&vxp=mtr#ht_534wt_1037 And if you go with the illuminas and used tokico springs it should only be about $100 more http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-TOKICO-ILLUMINA-SHOCKS-STRUTS-NISSAN-240Z-260Z-70-71-72-73-74-5-/170831727085?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c65d49ed&vxp=mtr#ht_1215wt_1037

Buy a cheap $10 fuel gauge from Autozone. The one that goes inline with the rubber fuel line. Then you'll see what pressure your at. Install it at the return

Just pop the rail out with injectors still attaced to the rail and try to start it. Fuel should come out of the injectors.

It doesn't look to be in bad shape and the contacts aren't rusted. Is there a problem with it or how it makes the car run?

Yeah those are Riken Mesh wheels, most likely 15x7. I've seen people put them up for sale every now and then, but you'd be hard pressed to just find one by itself. Probably be better off buying a new set of the enkie 92's old school meshies.

Old gas if its really been sitting that long. My 280zx literally wouldn't rev past 4k after I got it on the road after 5 months of jackstands. Exhaust leak wouldn't cause backfiring....

Buy a $50-100 off of craigslist. It'd probably be less of a hassle.

I just used some Krylon satin black, and the rear wing is the ZX-R homologation wing. Its a real urethane one, I believe just over 1000 were made ( 1009 iirc). I hate the fiberglass repros that MSA sells because they don't have the break in the middle like this one does. Downside is that it weighs like 25#.

What is the timing set at? and what year are the components from? 81 or the 82-83 turbo? And stupid question but you're positive the spark plug wires are set properly? and that the dizzy hasn't skipped a tooth?

Pics please

I would get it as a good base to start at, but I wouldn't just drop it in. I'd take it apart or bring it to a machine shop to check the block for cracks as stated, or you can use it as a mock up, get it wired up and then just remove and replace with a known good block.

Why did you switch to the stock rail? were you having this problem with the rubber hoses routed behind the motor?

Compression test to check the head gasket. Do you know if the coolant leaked out? is it in the oil? was there steam when it was overheating? Just fyi being 16 will grant you no mercy here and neither will begging for help.

Yeah that's a stock flange. I believe the ZX's had a different flange that actually looked better, I just cut it off right at the merge and had my exhaust shop make a full 2.5" system from that. My muffler shot did have that type of flange on stock, I don't know why. So they could have made a complete custom system.

Go buy these. If you have the access room. http://community.craftsman.com/Craftsman-Bolt-Out-Damaged-Bolt-Nut-Remover-Set-reviews

When are you shifting that you loose boost? and what kind of cam and what size turbo are you running. You can't possibly be dropping 2000+rpm unless you shift slow as a snail.

Stock springs are open and ungrounded as they sit on a perch that cups the end if that makes sense. I'm assuming by grounded you mean it has a flat end to sit on. Hypercoil mostly sells coilovers springs so that makes sense. Eibach can make a custom spring rate for you also if you just give them the dimensions and information. I had no problems running my tokico springs, Never had a problem and for the year I had them I went cross country, towed a trailer, did a lot of hard canyon driving and definitely beat on it daily with the north hollywood streets.

What kind of tire size are you running? If you have a lot of sidewall that will absorb more bumps. Even of you don't though I'd suggest the tokico linear springs that MSA sells, you can call them to confirm the spring rates. They definitely firm the ride up and I don't think they would be hard enough to blow your bilsteins. I was running them with tokico hp shocks though, and I'm a young so it felt soft to me. softness depends a lot on your sidewall and also the seat you have. A fiberglass bucket will transmit a lot more to your spine then the stock seat.

I'm actually just about to try this using the factory parts. I have a p90 head with forged flattops, and I bought all the stuff to convert to a stock turbo setup, just got my exhaust manifold back from coating. Need to send my injectors off to get cleaned then I can start putting everything together. If you say it lived happily at 7psi for a few years then that gives me hope.

Wait so did you kill you're last alternator? When you got a new one did they test the old one?

Those look like the XXR 527's like st8tpipez is running, just in silver. XXR is one of the few wheel companies that have .25-.75 inch increments Gmanatc yes you can get away with it, unless you cut your springs a godawful amount and rub on bumps. Just buy some lowering springs, They're like a couple hundred.