BluDestiny

when you upload the pictures you scroll over them and choose the link at the bottom for the image. it will be like img or something. Congrats on the find its a 5speed and has a decent interior. If I didn't have a 280zx already I would be looking for a turbo to daily. Honeslty if it runs adn drives and you had to do minimal work to get it there I don't think you overpaid too much unless back registration was like over $400 although I don't know how bad the rust is. If your car snaps in half when you jack the front up bad or just like a few holes bad

It's pretty good. It is in a little rough condition from being stored outside, but nothing a sanding can't fix. It also does need all the holes drilled in and parts cut out for the turn signals and lights. I'm very happy with it and got it from Zforce for a reasonable price, but I have yet to actually fit it. I'm hoping that fact it juts out a tad farther will offset the 2+2 look.

R200 with 3.9 gears no oil was 70.5 lbs

Ok took come pictures of it. Polished Compressor Housing was a nice touch The turbine side doesn't seem in that bad of a shape either And my turbonetics wastegate to go with it

You can hit about 300hp with a manual boost controller, and intercooler and just up the boost. There are a bunch of writeups on it. Also search big phil. With minor (relative to what you want to do i.e forged internals and stuff) modifications he was running 25psi and closing in on 400hp on a STOCK block.

Lucky that yours works. Mine didn't work when I got the car, so I trashed it. Problem solved haha.

Yeah I got the key.

http://zilvia.net/f/misc-accessories/371902-winning-charlie-sheen-sticker.html

Ditto what bobbyc said You would need to run over 2ft parking curbs to hit it. Or a wall.

Get them if the price is right, if not just hold out for what you want.

Hey Just picked up a Holset H1C turbo for $200 because it was missing the vband clamp for the compressor housing, brought it to a holset rebuilder to get the Vband clamp and he said it was in great condition. Its a huge turbo, I'm still in the process of getting everything together, need to bring my stock manifold to a welder to cut a hole and install an external wastegate (turbonetics 42mm) and also have him fab up a downpipe. That way I can get everything put together and installed as "one piece". Anyway I read a few threads about these turbos, found out it has an 18cm^2 turbine housing from this: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84733-which-holset-is-which-look-here/ But I couldn't find a topic where someone said "hey I am running an H1C, not an Hy and not an Hx series" I know that it is practically like an Hx35 since it had the 8 blade 54mm inducer. Also a really nood question, but since it's a twin scroll, do I need to change out the turbine housing to a single from an Hx35? I will be posting pics later tonight.

There is actually a place in my town that custom makes braided lines. You bring in the rubber line, they give you one that's braided. You should invest in a flaring tool so you can convert all your hardlines to accept AN fittings. Helped my friend do it on his CRX. I know that isn't the answer you probably want since you are in a huge learning phase now with the swap going on and this is just more info you need, but that's probably the best way to go.

I think someone sells flanges for the intake on L series heads. If you can get one of those you can just add the runners (any length you want) and fix that plenum to it. IT does seem to be a little long, so you could chop the rear off and add another back plate. Then it won't seem as large or bulky

just fyi any s30 hood will fit.

This guy. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86623-crazyoctopus-1972-240z-build-up-long-first-post/

Hey everyone, Just want to know if this means my stock almost 40 year old temp gauge is crap or is the sensor I bought it crap/reads high. Car is a 260z with an L28 block but using an e88 head and 260z therm housing So my temp sensor wire practically fell off(too much wiggling around messing with the dizzy) so I decided to basically solder on a new wire and while I was at it replace the old coolant temp sensor(vatozone brand). Used 14 guage stranded wire and used a bullet connector to fit it on the temp sensor. This is the coolant temp sensor that is closest to the block, has a single nipple on it. Anyway now that I put it in, I bled the coolant system again and the temp gauge now reads at approx. 215-230(right over the "M" in temp)even at idle. Thing is it holds that and really doesn't move. With the old gauge in it read approx 195-205(near the middle). I'm pretty sure that if it is precise that means my car is overheating/running hot. I use the MSA Afco 4 core alum radiator and 2 electric fans to keep cool. Haven't had a problem in the past and just drove my car around today with no incident. I run a 70water/30prestone mix with half a bottle of water wetter. Does this mean my gauge is crap? or that the sensor is just not made properly?

^^^ Got one of those in my room. My s130 has been front bumperless since I've had it. Can't wait to get it on.

Buy a cheap beater truck for under $2000.

I like to use this. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

I had that crap on my 280zx. drilled em out, brought it to a welder to fill the holes, ground down and bondo'd smooth. I wouldnt completely bondo fill the holes because if you don't properly coat BOTH sides they can get moisture on them and rot fall out.

It feels a little heavy, but when I got the car the PS lines were cut so it's normal to me. Some people like that more. As for wheel size you can fit 275s back there with little effort, just get the right backspacing. Also you might want to consider something stiffer in teh rear for dragging. I'm actually planning on getting these as soon as I can: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66 Also this was my college car, got me to and from school(about 20 miles round trip) and I carried whatever the heck I wanted in it. I do wish I had my AC sometimes, but the power windows and mirrors are already enough for me haha

Keep the majority of your emmission stuff if until you plan a swap or go all out with the motor. It helps you with your MPG. Also your car is going to be way lighter than 2800 lbs. I have a 280zx with a stripped interior(sound deadening gone and every panel from the front seats back) with 2 sparco seats and no PS or AC and it weighs 2600 with a full tank of gas. As soon as your do the swap I feel like you would remove the AC and PS anyway, and why bother with euro bumpers? Just get FG parts for those if you really want to save weight. You also didn't mention anything about what you're going to do for suspension, (for the start) and that can be a ton of money right there. If you're just going to roll on tokico springs and shocks until you tub it then that would save you some cash, unless you want to go all out coilovers in the beginning. Weight should be the first thing you are (for the most part) totally concerned with for dragging, and since you will have the engine out if will give you down time to strip the car.

updates?

could have gotten water in the cylinders through the intake somehow also, so could be coompletly locked up. You should probably check that first

I love the FI on my 280zx NA. Starts right up, works great and I get like 25-27 highway mpg. Only change I've made is a fuel rail, FPR and Walboro pump