BluDestiny

Moltar that's an awesome idea, but I think he wants to either break even or pay very little. You can probably find a set of roundtop SU's for $150 (that's how much I sold my set for complete with linkage and intake) from a member here, and then flip your carbs for that price(if not more since they are rebuilt). Or you can find some hitachi flattops, like you want, for probably dirt cheap.

Super unique build. Just curious as to how you are going to keep your hood closed now? pins? And what is your HP goal, and what EMS are you going to run?

read your thread, makes me sad. GL finding a clean shell

Wow awesome, thank both you guys. It is an early 260z with an ammeter and if I can use the MSA plug that would be perfect.

If someone could point me in the right direction on this subject, I'm swapping my old worn out 260z 40amp alternator with a 70amp from a 280zx turbo. I found these links: 240z Alt swap http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5996&highlight=alternator+swap 280z Alt swap http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html I know it's not like the 280z swap since that alternator has a diode looking thing on the right side, so I'm probably going be using the 240z swap more as a blueprint. I want to know if there is anything I'm missing or something I should be warned about. I'll be doing it tomorrow and will catalog the event(assuming everything goes well) edit:Lurking around some more I know I need to (obviously) disconnect the external volt regulater [like in the 240z swap and the "shunt" (I don't know what that is) and rewire the T terminal to something with a diode in it. I also called MSA to check if they had a kit, but it's only for a 240z alt, but they said it can be done pretty much by hand, just got to figure out which wires to connect to where.

Want one for stock L28's, in a 1mm and a 2mm thickness. I would like to see them for $200-$250

link http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Race-Coil-over-Coilovers-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-74-78-Springs-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5adee2e1c9QQitemZ390286467529QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_2703wt_1165 what's up with those hats? unless it's jsut a sample pic. Also doesn't give specs on spring(length, spring rate). If you can pick the SP and length it might be worth looking into

Before with SU's, L26, no headers: After with webers, L28, headers, MSD:

Was planning on doing that. Going to drop the tank and use AN fittings on all inlet/outlets.

I see that now I should have stretched 245's since it wouldn't have been that bad. I'm probably going to get coilovers next so that I can give it some camber too.

Yeah they're heavy as S**t. th 16x10s are 26lbs and the 16x8's are 24lbs makes for about 40lbs per corner. Damn heavy

Yeah the 265's cost $180 a tire. The 225 cost like $100 per.

Webers suck to tune. Run for your life if you are new to carbs. or be a man and do a bunch of reading.

So here's the real deal, I finally got my tires for the diamond racing rims that I've had for a few months now. I went with 16x8 in the front with 225/50/16 tire and 16x10 in the rear(Diamond racing doesn't make widths from 8-10" wide, so it's either 16x8 all around or my combo) with a 265/45/16 tire. The tires I used are khumo Ecsta XS. Loved them on my Z so I wanted another set, plus they are the only brand that carried anything that wasn't slicks for a 16x10 rim. I wanted a straight up fitment, no stretching and they fit perfectly. Backspacing on the front is 4" and 4.5" for the rear The suspension I'm running, since that's an important part for people, is just the tokico illuminas up front and HP's in the rear(since they don't make illumina's for the rear on zx's anymore) with tokico springs all around. Pretty much stock. The great thing about these tires is they are almost perfect in diameter so the speedo isn't off(by much) Here are the 225 tires with the stock 195s: Here is the 265(a lot wider): Here they are behind the stock wheel here they are mounted: stocks Diamonds And here is the manditory side shot: fronts rears They stick out farther than the fender by about an inch on the rear. I had to roll the fenders and I want to flare them out a little just so it looks better. Anyway I hope everyone enjoys this and can learn from it somehow. (for anyone wondering, yes that is a tow hitch installed by uhaul. I just drove little blackie from FL to CA pulling 4'x8' uhaul trailer that weighed approx 1200lbs)

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/forum/37-nissan-4-cyl-forum/ Read every single thread pertaining to fitting an sr20 in. It's a drop in affair from what I take it since there are at least 2-3 companies that make mounts. Vildini and mckinley I think make em.

I have Triple webers and am running the stage 4 camshaft. It's a kick in the pants. Streetability sucks, but that's also due to the 6-puck(which is overkill and regret installing :read brag part:) and the fact that the carbs need a good cleaning. Pulls like crazy from 4-7k and could probably do more if my rev limiter was set higher. edit: forgot to add, for the money I spent I could have had a 400hp turbo Lseries. But I regret nothing

Ok so right now my 260z has and aftermarket autozone special fuel pump for carbs that is just annoying and noisy. Since I recently got a walboro fuel pump in a trade for parts, I'm going to use the Walboro 255 fuel pump, make new hardlines for the supply and return that follow under the frame rail and do braided lines in the engine bay. I'm going to use this FPR http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AEI-13301/ and I want it to turn out kinda looking like this http://media.photobucket.com/image/stonehenge%2069%20240z/stonehenge69/FuelDelivery.jpg Minus the huge shiny filter, instead going to use a tiny inline one. I'll also be getting an aeromotive fuel filter to stick before the FPR If anyone can chime in with good results from this brand or if anyone can point out anything I'm missing please do. This setup is working with carbs, hence the low fuel pressure(probably going to set it to 3-5psi.

I used krylon in semi-gloss black on my 280zx and it was fine for about a year and a half. Then I got a real paint job.

Using the tall K&N's to fit my air horns with a long cannon manifold, and it's pretty close to the fender wall so it's an inconvenience when I have to take them off. They have counter sunk screws holding them in, but I'm eventually going to get some butterfly bolts so I can do it my hand. They are getting dirty though and I'm looking into some ITG foam filters down the road

Why don't you just use an N42 head? the compression won't be as high (pump gas friendly) and it will work nicely with a mild cam. It would also be cheaper.

I use a 13 inch momo in my 260z adn have no problems turning or seeing guages. I also have a 10inch mom in my 280zx(no power steering) and that is a ***** to turn and it does block my guages. You should look into a grant or momo or something before hand because you can get them kinda for the same price and you know that's a decent brand.

I asked courtesy nissan and they said it was like $180 each side, plus shipping, but I don't have t-tops.

Very cool keep it up.

I like the look of that frosted zx

Jeez I hope your sisters doing fine. Looking forward to the pics